Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Hello My Faithful Readers:
Blog: January 13th, 2016

I've posted a few pictures below this blog.

I have safely returned to Georgia after my fabulous trip. As you know, I have been writing only one blog per month; however, so much has happened since I last left you in December that one blog won’t be enough – so I will also blog at the end of January. I will share in this blog my travel adventures in Switzerland (part 1) and will continue with the Rhine River Cruise (part 2) in the next blog.

So here we go the beginning of my last six months here in Georgia as a Peace Corps Volunteer.

To begin, Christmas Day, December 25th, is not the ONLY day that Christmas is celebrated. This is a strange sensation for me to have Christmas good wishes offered on a day other than December 25th.  The Georgian people celebrate Orthodox Christmas on January 7th. I have listed the link below which will provide information on Alilo.



I returned from my travels thinking that I would be celebrating Christmas with my host family; however, I was surprised to learn that my family was not at home in Sagarejo. All had gone, with the exception of the grandmother, to the family of my host mother in Imerti (which is out west in Georgia). This was a surprise as I had arranged my plans to make sure that I was home to celebrate their Christmas with them; but, I could understand why they wanted to go. My host grandmother and I muddled through together; but, it was really quiet. Food was in limited supply; mostly potatoes and chicken broth for the next few days. I had come home with a cold; so, it was nice to have a very peaceful couple of days to recover. Neighbors hollered Christmas greetings and of course the dogs in the neighbor barked and cried as usual.

So, this time of quiet gave me time to reflect on the trip I had just returned from…and here is my story J

I arrived in Zurich Switzerland on Christmas Eve, 2015. My flights from Tbilisi to Istanbul and then from Istanbul to Zurich were flawless. I really like Turkish Airlines and even more so; I know my way around the Istanbul airport now like the back of my hand. I arranged for transportation to the hotel and all went like clockwork. The hotel was OK. It was the Hotel Continental (link below). It was very old world; in fact I thought at first glance that maybe the keys would be on the board behind the reception desk. That was not the case; but, I think you get the picture.


They had mulled wine in the lobby along with butter cookies that I took full advantage of. I’ve never had mulled wine so this was a new experience for me.


The first thing I wanted to do in Zurich was to open up a numbered bank account; however, I was told it is not so easy to do that any longer. The minimum amount to open an account is 100,000 Swiss Francs (as Switzerland is not part of the EU they don’t use the euro). Since I was a couple of Swiss Francs short; well, that ended that conversation.

The city was really quiet as it was Christmas. I fell in love with the city. The tour company arranged a Zurich City walking and bus tour. Since there was little traffic we got to see a lot of the city. The city was like a postcard. As all of Switzerland was untouched by WW2; so I could feel myself drifting back in time absorbing the Limmat River and Lake Zurich. The weather was excellent; in fact, at times we could have taken our coats off. No snow, which was disappointing.


The train station, which was within walking distance of my hotel, was tremendous. I spent a good bit of time there as I so enjoy being a part of the comings and goings.  I was told that the Zurich train station is the world’s most frequently served railway stations with 2,915 trains every day. The Christmas market was still in play; so it was a frantic experience watching the shoppers as well as all the items for sale. I tried to use the bathroom; however, it cost 2 Swiss Francs (which I thought was a lot). So, I’d wait until I got back to the hotel J


During our walking tour a question came up that I have wondered about; and that is, how did Switzerland remain neutral during the war? According to our tour guide; there is a very simple answer. That is, Hitler allowed it. The story goes that Hitler knew he could take the country anytime he wanted. Hitler also thought that Switzerland was like a “safety deposit box.” When the war was over and he would have access to all the assets within Switzerland as well as have a country that would have been untouched by the war. These are the reasons Switzerland was allowed to stay neutral. Now, I don’t know what if anything I’ve written is true; but that is the way it was explained…..

On Christmas Day I connected with a local family that belongs to the SERVAS organization I belong to. What a wonderful experience that was. A husband and wife picked me up at the hotel and off we went, via the tram, to Grossmunster Church (link below) for a Christmas afternoon concert. Full orchestra as well as choir performed for 90 minutes, or more. The place was packed and since we arrived a little early we had terrific seats.



Being the city gal that I am, my SERVAS family gave me a day pass for the buses and trams. The transportation system is easy, clean and fast. I just loved being a part of the crowds getting on and off public transportation.

After the concert we went to a local coffee house to have coffee and then headed out to their apartment; using first a tram and then a bus. It took about 30minutes to get to their place. Their view is of the Alps and they showed me in the distance where I would be the next day, Mount Pilatus. The day was so clear so we could see for miles and miles. A dinner of salad, fish and vegetables was served, along with wine and great conversation. All in all – it was a Christmas I won’t soon forget. I spent about 10 hours with this couple and it was like the blink of an eye.

I felt so comfortable in Zurich; I felt that I would be able to navigate myself around without any problem. Most people in Zurich speak English; so that was easy also. I could spend this entire blog writing about Zurich; but it is time to move on.
But before I leave Zurich - a couple of items:

People do not use artificial Christmas Trees in Switzerland, only real trees. Up until five years ago REAL candles were used on the Christmas tree (how about that!). At the crosswalks all methods of transportation STOP and allow passengers to cross. What a unique experience that was as pedestrians are a privilege class in Switzerland (that alone would make me move here). The church bells ring for 15 solid and continuous minutes announcing that services will begin when the bells end. I just love hearing the bells. It reminds me of England when a wedding is going to take place. I am told that there is really no unemployment in Zurich and it has been ranked as a city with the highest quality of life in the world.

We board the bus and will now travel to Lucerne, which is to the south of Zurich.
Lucerne was very nice but didn’t have the impact of Zurich, at least for me. However there were some tremendous moments.

We arrived in Lucerne by boat. It took about an hour and I could not tell you where we boarded the boat from; but, when we left the boat in Lucerne we were only about a five minute walk to our hotel in Lucerne. It felt like we were in an industrial district as we were close to the water front as well as to the train station – but the hotel was OK.  The boat was covered so we were warm inside watching as we floated by the houses that were on or near the river banks. The futuristic Culture and Convention Center (KKL) was nearby the hotel. This building is a landmark of Lucerne.



It was like a post card, the scenery along the banks of the Lucerne River. The scenery was pristine and untouched, or so it seemed from a distance. I love being on the water so I was in heaven, with my bottle of beer, in the boat on Lake Lucerne.

The “Lion Monument” in Lucerne was discovered literally as we were leaving the city to head towards Basel. I was just so-so and complaining, “Why do I need to get off the bus to see this.” However, it would have been my loss. I have never seen a sculpture convey such pain and anguish in stone. The pictures don’t do it justice; but, try and get an up-close view of this sculpture. Truly it is very moving. I wanted to get close and touch it; but, there was a pool of water that blocked the way. The monument is carved into the wall; so, it would have been a neat trick (without a ladder) to get up there.


Another moment, or really a full day, was the trip to Mount Pilatus. We had a perfect day for visibility and although it was cold it was manageable. We took a four person gondola to the mid-point on the mountain and then the aerial cable car (called Dragon Ride) to the top. The Cable car held over 50 people (maybe more). It was a thrill to watch and feel this Dragon inch its way to the landing on Mount Pilatus. I was holding on for dear life; however, nothing really would have saved us if the Dragon decided otherwise (smiles).


There is a story that goes along with why this mountain is called Mount Pilatus. It was named for Pontius Pilate, famous for washing his hands of the death of Jesus Christ. I am not sure I can do the story justice; but something about no one wanted to have the bones of Pilate in their land/country. The corpse moved around quite a bit (of course not on its own) before it settled on Mount Pilatus. Again, something about each Easter he rises up from the grave and tries to wash the blood from his hands. I wish I would have written more of the story down, but it could be just a “Tall Tale.” But, if you are interested do some research….

I could never say enough about being on Mount Pilatus. It was breathtaking. At almost 7,000 feet elevation our questions were how they were able to build a hotel and tourist center in this location? There were many young people parasailing off the mountain. My heart was racing watching them get air under their parachute and then have to bank left very hard in order not to crash into the mountain. What a thrill to watch this. We had a tremendous view of the Alps in the distance as we were told that Mount Pilatus is not really part of the mountain Alps chain; but, I didn’t care. I was overwhelmed with experience.

I had another great experience with another SERVAS family in Lucerne. These folks (mom, dad and two children – 9 and 11) took me out to dinner at a local restaurant near the hotel. We talked for hours about my life, their life, what it is like to live in Switzerland (they are both Swiss), working in Switzerland and all things pertaining to their children. There was not an empty moment during dinner. We were all, including the children, trying to share and ask questions – saying, I’m sorry” for interrupting (smiles). They all spoke English as most people do in Switzerland. We talked about how expensive it is to live in Switzerland and how privileged they felt to live where they do. (They live about an hour outside of Lucerne). I am so glad that I made prior arrangements to meet them; my experience with them absolutely made me richer for getting to meet them; as well as, the couple I met in Zurich.

We did some walking in Lucerne and a group of us had dinner at a local restaurant.  I had a “rosti” – explanation below. It was OK; but, I was told that there are other places that make it better.

Rösti
A flat, hot cake made of grated, cooked jacket or raw potatoes and fried in hot butter or fat. The dish is bound by nothing apart from the starch contained in the potatoes. 

As we were touring the city a conversation developed about taxes in Switzerland. Our tour guide said there is a “religious tax”.  You can be catholic, protestant, or nothing and you pay accordingly. Now, I’ve never heard of something like that. I asked what would happen if you lied and said nothing (which means you don’t have any tax to pay). Well, if you lied and then needed the Catholic Church, say to get married or something, then you would be denied access.

There were many, many churches that I avoided as I had enough of the ABC tour (Another bloody Church), and shopping and stores were in abundance -  Chocolate, bakeries, watches, clothing, etc., etc. I am not much for shopping while touring so all these stores really did nothing for me.

We were surprised to learn of “Carnival” in Lucerne. Towards the end of winter Carnival breaks out in the streets and squares of old town. It is an outdoor party where chaos and merriment reign and nothing is as it normally is. Thousands of bizarrely clad people sign and dance away the winter….it sure sounds like Mardi Gras…

Another conversation that I found interested was the distinction between “tourist and traveler.’ Back in the day, people who traveled were call “Travelers” and today, in modern times we are called “Tourist.” Is there a difference between the meanings of these words?  These are the kinds of mental gymnastics my head goes into while I sit on buses moving between cities. I will ponder this some more.

As we left Lucerne and traveled to Basel (as that is where we would connect with the river boat on the Rhine River), we stopped at a store on the highway. Interesting way they handle the bathrooms. It seems that people need to pay 1 Swiss Franc in order to use the facilities. Once paid, the machine gives you a ticket and you can then use the ticket to decrease the cost of any items that you are buying. Interesting way to get you to separate from your money….

We arrived in Basel on the Rhine River. This is where we were to pickup our River Boat. However, before we did that we had a walking tour and also some free time to explore the city on our own.


Basel was OK. There were lots of stores as we were in the old part of the city. My friends and I spotted the hot dog shop. Our tour guide told us that this was a noted attraction in Basel; so of course, we had to have one. I didn’t measure the hot dog but it was long and it was wrapped in a large pretzels. Of course, we had to have the mustard that goes along with us and then, ta da! We were eating lunch out in the street. I spotted the chestnut vendor and had to have some, so I made my way over with the loose Swiss Francs I had and purchased all that my money would buy me. I have never had such big and evenly cooked chestnuts. It was a moment, at least for me.
The weather was very mild so it was nice to just sit and watch people, trams, dogs and tourists walk by. The city again felt like a post card. I thought that Walt Disney did his homework when he recreated Swiss architecture in his theme parks. The entire experience was peaceful and calm.

We ended our time in Basel, got on the bus and headed for the ship. I felt like I was in Switzerland for a long time but we were all looking forward to going to the ship (AMACERTO) and sail the Rhine River from Basel to Amsterdam.

My next blog (part 2) will begin as I arrive at the ship and I’m told that I have been upgraded to a stateroom on the top level. I had my very own balcony (for the first time).  


Thank you, My Faithful Readers for sharing my adventure. I hope that your New Year celebrations were excellent and look forward to all that is to come in 2016.

Best, Catherine Lawrence, G14
Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia – 1/13/16

The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.


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