Blog, June 4^th, 2014

Hello Everyone….

It has been an amazing couple of days. When I last left you J, I was going to travel out WEST in Georgia. The purpose of the trip was to job shadow one of the (G12) volunteers, who will be leaving in June or July, 2014. I was going to travel with two other trainees (like myself).  We were to travel to Bahhvi, a small village in the West. We had to make our own travel arrangements, but we had help from the G12 who we were going to shadow as well as stay with her and host family. In order to get there, I had to take (4) Marshrutkas (it is like a small van.) The first leg was in my village (Osiauri). I had never taken one before so I was unfamiliar with the route and timing. My host sister helped me. It costs 50 Tetri.

Coins: Freq Used: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50         Minor Unit: 1/100 = Tetri

Well, I almost killed myself getting on the “Marsh” as I tripped and almost fell into the driver. This was happening while my host sister was telling the driver, in Georgian, where to let me off. As I sat down, I immediately saw at my feet a woman who had about four bags of small chickens or something chirping.  The “Marsh” was packed as this is the main vehicle for people who live in the village to get back and forth to Khashuri (the next biggest town) for shopping, etc.  I was headed to Khashuri to meet my travel mates and get the next “Marsh.”   I always draw stares being the American in the village. I was trying to act confident, like I knew what I was doing, but “Marsh” culture is acquired and I know they knew this was my first time.J The village “Marsh” is about 100 years old. I am exaggerating, of course, but it is an old van. It is meant to hold maybe (15), but at any given time there must be in excess of 25 or more (plus chickens and bags and bags of whatever villagers are bringing home). It is packed to the rafters. There are no set locations to get it. You just stand on the road and flag it down.

Once in Khashuri I met with my group and a G13 Volunteer who had knowledge of  how to get the “Marsh” going to Kutaisi. There are no bus stations like there are in the States (e.g., Greyhound).  What you need to do is stand on or near the road the flag down a “Marsh” that has a sign in the window telling you where it is going (Of course, the sign is in Georgian).  Now, this is a bigger operation than the village flag down, as in Khashuri you are in a large town with traffic zooming past. Also, there is a 2 foot gully between where the sidewalk ends and the street, so you don’t want to fall into that. The “Marsh” pulls over to the side and then conversation about cost, and how many seats are available. Our G13 connected us with a “Marsh” that was coming from Tbilisi and will end up where we were going, Kutaisi. It was a new Mercedes 25 passenger and we got the last three seats. The cost is 6 GEL (each GEL is worth $1.75 USD, at last count). There were signs in the “marsh” as to no smoking or no music. It was a nice ride as most people didn’t talk on the phone or to each other. It took approximately 2-1/2 hours because along the way the driver stopped to let passengers out and pick up new passengers. Also, we were dodging pigs, cows and horses all while we were doing 60 mph.  The end of the line in Kutaisi is a McDonalds. The food was great, real “ice” in a drink. All the familiar items were available. The place was packed as it was a Sunday and lots of families and there was also a party room (I guess a birthday). There was face painting, balloons, rids running around. It was just like here in the States. Also, what great toilets! This is always a conversation here in Georgia about where the good toilets are. The staff was dressed like airline stewardess. The place was brand new and spotless. Wi-Fi was also available, so it was a nice spot to just take a breath.

The next “Marsh” #3, we had to go behind the McDonalds to the “Marsh.”  As far as our eyes could see, nothing but “Marsh’s” waiting for passengers.  Again, all the signage was in Georgia and all were different. From brand new to vehicles that looked like the “Marsh” In my village.  You discuss price, but most people know that its 5 GEL from Kutaisi to Ozurgeti.  Again, only a two lane highway exists; but really, you cannot call it a highway. The road conditions are not that bad (except for the livestock on the highways), but the traffic was fierce. Lots of Large tractor trailers; large sightseeing buses; pickup trucks; of course cars and really anything that moves is on the road. Our driver spent a great deal of time trying to pass the slower big vehicles on the road. Another bout of “taking your heart in your mouth” watching another car heading right into you and at the last minute our driver swerves in our correct lane. Another 2-1/2 hours to Ozurgeti and we finally meet up with our host G12 volunteer.  We went to a café to have a beer and then waited for the village of Bakhvi’s “Marsh” to arrive. This vehicle is in the same condition as the “Marsh” in my village, maybe even a tad worse. I cannot imagine what it feels or smells like during the summer. There are so many people jammed in. In any event, another 20 minute or so ride and we finally arrive in Bakhvi. All totaled, including rest stops and pickup and drop-off , it took almost (7) hours.

I did see a lot of the country during this time. The country side is so green and lush. The areas along the road have houses and buildings that look like they have been in a war.  Houses that are no more than empty shells are scattered throughout. Buildings that seem to have been started and then left abandoned. Also, bridges and highways that appear to have been started but not finished. Along the road are little huts that sell things, like bread. On our way home one passenger spoke to the driver and all of a sudden he pulled over to the side. The woman in our car poked her head out the window and ordered bread from the woman in the hut. Other people in the van also started buying stuff. It was very funny watching this unfold.

The village of Bakhvi was not much to look at. The roads were all paved, unlike the roads in my village. They are putting in gas lines and big rig equipment is digging on the sides of the road to place the pipes in the village. It sure does make a mess, but at least the gas line will be out of the way. The house we stayed in was lovely and so big. They had two bathrooms; however, the toilets didn’t flush. You had to throw a bucket of water in the toilet after you were finished. They did have hot water, so showering was nice. The host mother provided all our meals, and the Peace Corps provided her a stipend. I had a nice private room; however, the family also had a couple of roosters.  These roosters, at 4:00am, started their crowing. At first I thought it was a joke, but when a rooster is crowing underneath your window for hours and hours, well you know it is not a joke. There were two of them, so at times it was in stereo. I’ve heard roosters in my village, but only from a distance. This was up close and personal. It was like chalk on a blackboard and children crying at the same time and even that description could not do it justice. I was trying to figure out what I had in my book bag that I could make a slingshot out of; but thought that might be a bad idea.  I never thought I would say this but I was praying for the alarm clock to go off. I was in a strange house and didn’t know what to do to get away from the rooster. It seems the family is so familiar with the sound it does not bother them.  Needless to say, getting up at 4am for two days in a row, I was not at my best. Factor in the stress of all that travel – well, I was not a happy camper.

The school that we visited was again, like everything else, very old.  It had an outhouse behind the school that had a separate outhouse facility for teachers. That door was painted pink. Most of the teachers are women, only four men out of 26 (I think).  The class rooms were very large. I bet the ceilings were 20 feet high (or higher). The English classroom is called a “Cabinet.” Not sure why, other than it is a British term. Peace Corps has had a volunteer at this school since 2001, so lots of improvements have been made in the English room. They do have internet connections and computers (in some of the classroom); but, they also have a big hole in the roof. I cannot image what happens when it rains or snows. They have a “pechi” the small wood stove that is supposed to be used in winter; however, with a room that large and the high ceilings, the teachers never use it because it is more trouble than it is worth. I am getting very nervous about trying to teach under conditions of  such cold. The windows and doors are all new; however, the windows don’t close properly and the doors don’t fit well, so they have a hard time openings and closing the door. These windows and doors still have the NEW tape on them; I am stunned at the poor quality of workmanship. I don’t think these windows will keep the draft out. Also, the school often removes the handle so you cannot open and close the window. In this way the students cannot play with the windows; however, I would be concerned about exiting the school in an emergency; as you would need to break the window to get out.

Just like in other Georgian Schools, we heard many of the same problems here in Bkhavi. Students go to school but they don’t go to class or they arrive late after the class. We heard a report about an 8^th grader coming to school drunk. Stories about young children smoking and an 8^th grader actually drove to school in a car. Children have recess in the school. Not sure why, as there is so much open ground around the school. It is a little un-nerving seeing so many children running through the halls and up and down steps. A couple of boys were rolling a table top that almost hit a teacher. No one seems to stop the kids; it is like a free-for-all. We met the Director of the school who loves the Peace Corps. She still talks with former volunteers on Facebook and other sites like it. We had coffee and spoke in our broken Georgian of who we were and where we were from. Some of the children brought us flowers that they picked outside in the yard.

The trip was OK. It left me exhausted. I was able; however, to overcome my fear of the “Marshrutkas” for one thing. I was also able to get a pair of shower shoes at the bazaar and a notebook for my vocabulary. I was so thankful when I came home to Osiauri that there were no roosters near my home. We begin teaching again on Thursday because the Ministry of Education opened the schools up this past Monday. School ends in Georgia on June 13^th, so we are scheduled to teach from now until then.  Lots more to talk about but maybe you are tired of being on a virtual “Marshrutkas” reading my blog. 

Best, Catherine, G14

Note: The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.