Wednesday, August 26, 2015
Hello Faithful Readers:
Blog: August 26, 2015
16
Months Served - 11 Months to Completion
I wanted to follow-up with a couple of items from my
South East Asia trip. The reason I remembered is because of corn. Now, I love
corn and especially corn-on-the-cob. I remember last year here in Georgia I
thought the corn was “to-die” for; however, I realize now (this summer) that
the corn is OK. It is said here in Georgia that the corn is mostly fed to the
pigs; so, I think that I thought it was so good was because I was so hungry
(and the corn is very filling). In any event, as I was on tour at the Cu Chi
Tunnels (Saigon) they had a grill set up and corn-on-the cob was the main
attraction. Ah, I got in line and bought an ear; however, afterward I realized
that (due to the currency exchange) I didn’t realize it at the time but I paid
$7.00 US for an ear of corn. I still cannot believe it and the corn was not
really that good.
Also, as we were traveling the roads in both Vietnam
and Cambodia I noticed that a plastic contraption was set up to catch crickets.
You can see from the picture below how the system is set up. Many setups also
included a light so that at night the crickets would fly into the light and
then hit the plastic and then fall into the plastic tray at the bottom. A lot of crickets are eaten in Vietnam and
Cambodia, as well as Tranchulas and other creepy bugs.
Ok, back to Georgia. Recently I was sitting on the
porch and noticed that the truck that usually delivers the wood was coming up
the road. When he stopped one of our neighbors came out and looked inside the
truck and was pointing at something, it was a chicken. Wow, it was the first
time I had seen food being delivered and live food at that. As she was pointing
one of the chickens jumped out of the truck and started to run for its life.
The man ran after the chicken and that is the end of the story for that
chicken. A total of three chickens were given to our neighbor. They are handled
over upside down and the man was holding the chickens by their feet.
Listed below is the link for my newest published
article in OpEdNews.com. Hope you Enjoy!
Yerevan,
Armenia was a wonderful trip. The drive from
Tbilisi to Yerevan was eleven hours; however, during that time we visited three
monasteries, crossed the border, had lunch at an outdoor restaurant and also
stopped for Armenia pastries among other stops for pictures and just to stretch
our legs.
Before I go into more detail, I want to say how sad
I was to learn that Mount Ararat is no longer in Armenia. You can see this
historic mountain from Yerevan; but, it now belongs to Turkey (the border was
moved during one of the wars.) I was so
disappointed to learn this. The majesty of this mountain and to think that this
was the place that Noah landed his Ark (or so the legend goes).
I’ve copied below a link that shows Mount
Ararat with its two major cones, Lesser Ararat (left) and Greater Ararat
(right) – see link below. I didn’t realize that Mount Ararat had two peaks. (I
really need to take some geography lessons) - J
The monasteries we visited were Akhtala, Haghpat and
Sanahin (links below if you want to know more). All are centuries old and all
are in Armenia; however, once you see one (my opinion) you have seen them all.
The architecture is basically the same and they are all crumbling down with age
and lack of upkeep. By the 3rd Monastery I had enough and decided to
sit it out and just watch the mountains in the distance. To me that was pure
enjoyment. We had a lunch outside under a tarp that was basically a traditional
Georgian meal even though we were in Armenia. I wondered to myself since I
cannot bring myself to visit the churches and monasteries here in Georgia why I
signed up for a tour to view the same in Armenia; well, maybe I thought it
would be different – but not really.
I did get to see the landscape as we were traveling
the back roads where the churches were. I cannot begin to tell you how awe
struck I was at the terrain. At times I felt that I was on the moon. The areas
were so bleak and often times we didn’t even see a pole with wires on it. No
vegetation was evident. It was just devoid of anything living (or so it
seemed). Another section we went through was sort of like going through a
gorge. The mountains on either side of us reminded me of Moses crossing after
he parted the sea. The walls were so high; it was just breath taking. If for no
other reason than to see all this I am so glad I spent the time driving with
the tour. The road taken to come back to Tbilisi was not the least bit
interesting – so, I felt very fortunate to have seen the moon!
The highlight of the travel was first the crossing
of the border from Georgia to Armenia. This is one of my favorite things. I
love being in “no man’s land” the piece of land that neither county claims. Of
course, it was a frantic mess of people and cars trying to get across. We had
to leave the van and take our luggage with us to go through passport control. I
didn’t need a visa; so, that was good. There didn’t seem to have any
organization at the border so it took about 90 minutes or so to get cleared and
then I got to walk through “no man’s land.”
It was very cool. We also stopped at a traditional Armenia bakery which
was such a treat. The pastries were excellent and we got to watch baking the
bread and pastries as well as enjoy traditional Armenia music and dancers
within the bakery. No one wanted to leave; but, we did. It was just
extra-ordinary. Not all Armenia bakeries are like this (our guide said) and I
was disappointed that this kind of bakery does not exist in Yerevan.
Yerevan itself was a very sophisticated,
cosmopolitan city. It was very sleek and can draw rings around Tbilisi. The
city had lots of great restaurants, shops, outdoor gathering places and just an
overall common space that was filled with people. It did, at a point, feel a
little fabricated – almost Disney-esq; but I would go back and visit once
again. The only drawback was the time it took to travel. Coming back to Tbilisi
it was a little more than five hours. They do have a train but you need to
travel overnight. It is an option for another time.
I met lots of GREAT people at the hostel and we had
lots of conversation as well as company to explore around with. Of course, we
are all connected now on Facebook so I hope we all stay in touch. Yerevan had
two Brandy factories that due to scheduling I was not able to get to; but, we
did have some Armenia Brandy at an outdoor café.
In my travels within the city, I found a bookstore
that had many shelves of English Books. I was in heaven as I have been feeling that
I was in withdrawal since I’ve not been in a library or bookstore for some time
now. I also got to see the Blue Mosque in Yerevan which was a treat and across
the street was the central market of the city. I really enjoyed myself even
though it was so hot (45C).
Of course I always seem to find an anomaly in my behavior and that is; as I
was avoiding visiting churches and monasteries in both Georgia and Armenia I
had much desire to visit any Mosque I discovered in any country I was visiting.
I’ve listed the links for the beautiful Mosques I found in both Yerevan and
Tbilisi (Maybe I should do an article about this J
As I sit here writing my blog it is raining cats and
dogs. For the past three days it has been raining off and on and the weather
(thank goodness) has turned somewhat cooler. I have needed to wear my zip up
sweatshirt and it has felt wonderful. I know that this weather will be short
lived and the heat will come back; however, I am enjoying (along with everyone
else) a break from the intense heat we have experienced here in Georgia.
I am trying to travel as much as I can before school
starts on September 14th; so I took a weekend recently and spent the
entire three days in Tbilisi. Of course I have spent many days in Tbilisi; but
this time it was all day Friday, Saturday and Sunday. I stayed at the Envoy
Hostel (in the Old City) as it is one of the best. Other than sleeping six or
eight in a room (good grief) it does not feel like a hostel.
I explored many aspects of Tbilisi that I had not
had a chance to see previously. The first stop being the funicular railway that
travels to the top of a mountain in Tbilisi. The 2-minute ride deposits you at
an amusement park at the top. The ferris wheel and tower can be seen from just
about everywhere in the city. I am not much for amusement parks; however, the
view from up on the mountain was spectacular. The link gives you views of old
funicular and what the current setup looks like.
Next on the list was a trip to one of the thirty
Dunkin Donuts that are opened now across Georgia. The donuts are just so-so;
hopefully, with time they will get better but the coffee is OK. The Georgian
people just love it as you can see by the picture in the link that multitudes
are waiting for the store to open.
Next was the arial-tramway. This was very cool to see the city, once
again, from up high. At the top was a very large status of Mother Georgia
(Kartvlis Deda). Of course, lots of vendors to buy ice cream and the like; but,
not much else to do except look at the view. It was a smooth ride back and
forth; but, trams are just not my thing. Glad I did it J
I had a three hour lunch with a friend that I’ve not
seen in months at the Terrace Restaurant. Once again, the view was spectacular.
Walking tours are the way to go for me. I spent lots
of time connecting with folks who were leading tours of various parts of
Tbilisi. I just love this aspect of travel. It is cheap and you get to see so
much and meet great people along the way. I also spent lots of time discovering
many of the bus routes in Tbilisi. I like to ride the marshes and autobuses
just to see where they will go. It is once again a very inexpensive way to see
the city.
I discovered the Dry Bridge (named as it is a bridge
that does not go over water). It is like a flea market area with lots of
vendors to see just about everything. I figured out a bus route to take me from
the Peace Corps Office to the Old City which will come in handy as winter
approaches. No need to walk or take the metro. I just need to hop on the Marsh
#140 and away I go.
I found a Chinese Restaurant in Tbilisi and it does
not rise to the standards of Philadelphia; none-the-less, it was a welcomed
change to Schwarma. All in all I walked my feet off and so totally enjoyed myself.
I even found a waterfall in Tbilisi. Oh, the places I will go
In my upcoming blogs I will be talking about two
great events that I will be participating in. The first is my participation in
a summer camp in Kobaleti (which is very near Batumi on the Black Sea. This
camp is “Young Feminists Camp” for girls 14-17 years of age. I’ve listed the
link below.
I will be teaching English and inter-acting with the
girls for the entire camp. The camp will run from (September 1st-6th).
I am very excited about my participation as well as finally getting to see the
west coast of Georgia. All my expenses will be paid; so, that is also a plus.
Of course I will provide more information about my experience in mid-September
when I return.
http://youngfeministscamp.weebly.com/?fb_action_ids=1016962248313792&fb_action_types=weeblyapp:share
Here are a couple of final happenings here in
Georgia and Sagarejo to share with you. The results were just posted so that
the children know if they passed exams and were accepted into the University of
their choice. My host sister was accepted into her first choice; that is, The
Black Sea University which is here in Tbilisi. Everyone was jumping up and down
and all were gathered around the computer to see the results. It was a very
joyous day. The next is that my grant was approved for the school I teach in.
It was a lot of hard work (almost two months worth) to write the grant as well
as work with the teachers to determine what they wanted to buy for the English
Cabinet. I am very proud to have done that. We will buy projector, books, maps,
DVD/CD’s, security bars for the windows of the English Cabinet, a digital
camera and lots of other stuff to help the room being technology proficient.
More about this also as time goes forward.
The only negative about this is that the money will
go into my personal account. The grant is for over 4,000GEL (almost $2,000US) –
so it will be a lot to manage. I would have wanted the money to go to the
school; but, not to be.
Ok, so many wonderful things are happening (as
always) and I thank you for taking the time to ride along with me on this crazy
rollercoaster…..
All
the Best, Catherine Lawrence, G14
Peace CorpsVolunteer/Georgia – August 26, 2015
The
contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of
the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.
Wednesday, August 12, 2015
Hello, My Faithful Readers:
Blog: August 12, 2015
The first is the wood shed. There is even more wood stacked since I took the photo (exciting stuff, huh!). The next is the grape vines on the porch. I just sit and watch them grow. I really had no idea of the process but it has been very interesting to me. Next is "Wilber 2" our pig! He has grown so much since he first arrived. My internet is very slow so I would like to add more pictures but cannot. More Photographs in another blog.
I am back to blogging about my life here in Georgia
and to support it I’ve attached a photo of the “Wood Shed.” Although the heat
here is just unbelievable; we are starting to prepare for winter. The wood has
been arriving and it is being stacked in the “Wood Shed.” The family has doubled the amount of wood from last year. I think, because I brought a lot of the wood in to use, that possibly we used more than they allocated. Also, the grapes (see
attached) are growing and many of the leaves are turning brown and crumbling to
the ground. A sure sign that summer is coming to an end. It is sad in a way as
next August I won’t be here in Sagarejo; or, for that matter, in the Peace
Corps as I will close my service in July 2016
L
J
This coming weekend:
I will write more in the next blog – but on Friday I will be traveling
to Yerevan, Armenia. This has been a trip that I have been planning almost
since I arrived in Georgia. For one reason or another, I’ve not been able to go
until now. Of course, I will blog about it at the end of August – so stayed tuned!
The weather here has been HOT, HOT. The temperature
hovers above or around 100F during the day with humidity at or near 75. I don’t
know what that combination would give you in a “real feel” temperature; but, it
is hot. I remember it being hot last summer (my first here in Sagarejo);
however, I cannot remember being as uncomfortable as I am now.
I so miss air conditioning. This heat has made me
“out of sorts.” At times I just don’t know why I am feeling this way; other
than I am. I don’t know what to do with myself. I don’t want to sit, or walk or
even lay. Most of the time I am hungry, of course, (this seems to be a
permanent state of being here for me). It also seems that when I do get to have
food so that I feel filled and satisfied it just seems to make my hunger worse.
I just don’t understand that.
In addition to all this heat is the fact that we
have a new neighbor on the road that we live on. I am told that the man who
owns (or is building the house) is one of the richest men in Georgia. Who knows
if that is true; however, since last April there has been an army of workers
clearing the land and building the house. They placed a wall around the grounds
that must be ten feet high (or higher). They have been drilling and using power
equipment non-stop (it seems) from 8am to 8pm. It is like being in the dentist
chair. The army of men talk, no actually, they seem to scream at each other (I
guess to be heard over the power equipment). It is like chalk on a blackboard.
I keep hoping that since there are so many men working that the house will be
finished soon; but, it seems to go on endless.
I had the opportunity to go to Gori, Georgia. It is
about 100 miles or so to the west of Tbilisi. I went to visit another Peace
Corps Volunteer who has her own apartment in Gori. Wow, what a nice apartment.
It is on the 5th floor, so she does have a nice walk up the steps;
however, the apartment is lovely. It is a one bedroom and looks like it was
updated recently. Very cheerful once you get past the entrance to the apartment
building and you come out of the stairway. I don’t understand how the building
can look (from the outside) like it is going to fall down and yet when you open
the door to the apartment you feel like you are in another world. The stairway
is a nightmare. There are no lights so at night you need to use your phone to
light the way. It is dangerous as the steps are not aligned properly; so, some
are high and some are low. The hand rails shake and there are electric wire (or
some kind of wires) running all through and around the staircase. It is truly a
balancing act.
As part of the trip I got to see the Stalin Museum.
It is about a twenty minute walk from my friend’s house. The area is very nice;
set up for tourists. The museum information is listed in both Russian and
Georgian (with some information in English); however, English was rare. There
were so many paintings of Stalin. I wondered how much time he sat for the
artists. I don’t know much about this period in history; although, I am told
Stalin was a monster. So, having a museum dedicated to him seemed kind of odd!
Like having a museum dedicated to a serial killer.
I was also told that the mountains that I saw in
Gori were the Greater and Lesser Caucasus Mountains.
I was also told, and did some research, the Gori was
bombed during the war of 2008. I’ve listed a link it you would care to get more
information.
I know I must have noticed this before; however, I
know I didn’t acknowledge it. That is, the women (or many women) speak in such
a high pitch. I just don’t understand this? It is almost like they are singing the pitch
is so high. At times these adult women sound like little girls their voices are
so high.
Another aspect of Georgian life that I won’t get
used to is when going to the MAC machine (maybe I am dating myself, but it’s
the automatic teller….in any event, people do not give you much, if any,
privacy when accessing the machine). Georgian people (both men and women) just
come up behind you (me) and peek (really they stare and make no bones to try
and hide their looking) over your shoulder; or, they stand right beside you
when you are putting your account information into the machine. They don’t try
and shield the fact that they are looking at what you are doing. Privacy always
seems to be in short order in this country.
I try and use my body as a shield; but, it does not work all the time. I
try and wait until I am alone with the machine; but, almost always people come
to watch what I am doing. I would get the hint if someone was trying to block
me when using the machine; however, that is not the case with Georgian people.
It is annoying and upsetting.
Last summer I really didn’t do a lot of traveling as
I was new to the area and quite frankly I think I was so overwhelmed that all I
wanted to do was stay put. So, since I didn’t travel around much last summer
this summer has been a real eye opener for me. First, the heat here on the
mountain is one thing; but, traveling in this heat is quite another. Being in
the marsh in this kind of heat is like being in an oven. While moving it down
the road it is OK as the breeze keeps the temperature down; however, while
waiting for the marsh to begin its journey is just awful. Sometimes you need to
wait up to 30minutes and you must stay in your seat otherwise you may lose it.
Another aspect of traveling is the body odor of
people. Now, it is a given that folks here (for one reason or another) they
don’t take a shower everyday; so, being in a marsh (or sometimes just standing
next to someone) can almost knock you over with the body odor coming from that
person. I don’t remember this from last
year but then I was fairly stationary here on my mountain.
I’ve listed the above link which will give you some
idea of “Didube” here in Tbilisi. This is the travel portal to the “west” here
in Georgia. All marshes and taxies and anything else that moves to the “west”
begins here in Didube. This area is just unbelievable. I have not been here in
over a year as Sagarejo is to the “east” so I don’t need to go to Didube. I had
forgotten just how chaotic this place is. The pictures do not do it justice. It
is really a small area and there are so many marshes and taxies going all
places “west”. There is a bazaar and all kinds of stores selling everything
from furniture to buckets. I really enjoy this place; however, there are land
mines everywhere. I mean holes in the pavements and roads; all kinds of wood
and rocks to step over and anything you can imagine. I cannot look and walk. I
need to stand still and observe. Also,
as usual, the cars and marshes pay no attention to people so as always if you
don’t want to get hurt you have to watch out.
The Panduri is an instrument I got to see up close
recently as a Peace Corps Volunteer was playing the instrument. She said that
she taught herself how to play and also use Utube to help in the process. She
was really good and I had a thought (but only for a minute) that maybe this was
something I would like to do. I gave up the notion as when I really got honest
with myself I realized I didn’t want to take that on. I enjoyed listening; but,
it felt like work to learn how to play.
A follow-up to my travels out west to Dezevir a
couple of weeks ago….there is one road in Georgia that spans the country east
to west. It is mostly a two lane road; however, when you are coming into or
leaving Tbilisi there is a four lane highway for about one-hundred miles. Other
than that, it is one lane going east and one lane going west. It is very slow
going on this road as all traffic must use this route. The drivers go so fast;
however, most of the time is spent trying to pass other cars and/or trucks and
tractor trailers. At times my knuckles are white watching how close the cars
and marshes come to each other and how very often they have to go onto the side
of the road in order to avoid a car that is trying to pass on the other side
and is still using part of your area of the road. I have visions of the marsh I
am in rolling down the side of the mountain. My heart is in my mouth much of
the time. I often just close my eyes as I really cannot do anything about it.
There are so many accidents here in Georgia because of the reckless driving and
poor road conditions; however, most accidents don’t get reported.
There have been lectures and petitions to change the
climate of “War on the Georgian Roads” – which, driving in Georgia seems to
feel like. Not sure how much progress will be made; but, sure is great that
there are plans to discuss the menace that is Georgian Driving.
Over the past fifteen months I’ve been to many towns
and villages here in Georgia and the thing that struck me the most is how
similar all of these places are. The buildings are constructed (both houses and
apartments) in the same configuration. The colors are basically the same. The
stores are the same from one town to the next and the items sold are absolutely
the same. If I didn’t know the location of where I was I would not know that I
was in a different area of Georgia. There are churches everywhere and they all
look the same. There are mountains everywhere; so, seeing mountains in the
distance sure does not make an area stand out. There is beauty in the distance,
so many open fields, hills and mountains; but, the towns and villages seem very
uniform.
We have a new Ambassador here in Georgia. Ian C.
Kelly has taken office, July 2015. A new chapter begins.
Also, Peace Corps Volunteers were just information
that our Country Director, Maura Fulton, has accepted a position as Country
Director in Burma (Myanmar) effective in September, 2015…so, lots of changes
here Leadership at the top. Stay tuned for ongoing developments.
I’ve decided not to do a summer camp here in
Sagarejo; however, I have been participating in camps that other Peace Corps
Volunteers have organized. Recently I joined the summer camp at the Youth House
here in Sagarejo. I basically just showed up to show my support. There were so
many children; may fifty. I was impressed that they were all at tables and
quietly working on drawings. It was very
nice to see. We also, the teachers, had tacos that were made from scratch by
one of the Peace Corps Volunteers. It was a nice end to the day and lots
of fun conversation.
I introduced the children to the “Banana Song.” I really cannot adequately describe it other
than the children (and me) just love it. It is very simple and it introduces a
couple English words….e.g., peel; cut; mash, stomp, throw and go. The “go”
really cracks the kids up as you really need to get into “go bananas”. I just
love it and they fall all over themselves seeing an adult acting like a kid (
I like to do that J.
At the summer camp I participated in a few weeks ago
I had some interesting thoughts as I sat watching this camp unfold. I was thinking about how different my Peace
Corps Experience would have been if I had been assigned to this location
(dzeveri) rather than where I am presently posted (Sagarejo). I then went on to think about, and have
conversations with other Peace Corps Volunteers, about whether the location of
service makes the volunteer experience or does the volunteer make the
experience in their location. Hum, deep thoughts….I just found this interesting
to think about and I am really not sure what the answer is.
Ok, getting ready to travel this weekend. Great to
be back home in Georgia!
Best,
Catherine Lawrence, G14
Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia
The
contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of
the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.
Tuesday, July 28, 2015
Blog, July 29th, 2015
Hello, My Faithful Readers:
The first is a photo of the top deck of the ship (AKA as my second home). I spent LOTS of time here watching as we floated by. The next is in Ha Long Bay. I just loved this area of the world. The next is a photo of the children at the mat factory and then me in one of the markets in Vietnam. Finally, a photo of motorcycle riders in Vietnam. Most everyone is dressed as shows, no matter how hot it is. They look like bandits and reminds me of the wild west.
Here we are at the end of July, 2015 and I am
celebrating completing my15th month of service - July 26th. The clock has now moved so that I can now
claim 15/12 (15 completed and 12 to go).
I don’t know why PCV’s mark time this way; but, we all seem to do it. I
know for myself it is about acknowledging how far I have come and to remind
myself of the limited time I have left of this experience.
As promised, I want to continue writing and finish
writing my experiences and travels during my recent trip to Vietnam and
Cambodia. When I last left you I was just finishing up my travels in Cambodia
at the Angkor Wat complex; but there is much more to Cambodia than just the
religious sites. Just so you know; lots of good stuff is happening here in
Georgia and I am making notes so that nothing will be missed when I next blog
about Peace Corps Georgia in August.
Below is the link to my most recent article - “Time” in the Peace Corps.
But first there are a couple of things happening in
Georgia that I want to talk about. First, I spent about five days helping with
a summer camp in Dzevri, Georgia. This location is in the west and it is not
too far from the Black Sea. It is a very small village but it has terrific
people living there as well as a wonderful school, teachers and programs. I will write more in another blog, but just
wanted to mention.
Dzevri is a distance from Sagarejo. I had to first
travel to Tbilisi; 2 hours and then transfer to the marsh’s going west. That
ride took 3-1/2 to 4 hours (depending on if the marsh had a layover at any
place along the way). Also, most times the marsh stops for shopping. If one of
the passengers calls out to stop; then the marsh stops. This trip we stopped
for someone to buy a hammock. Another stop was made for bread and another stop
for beer and soda. It is very annoying (to me) as it does increase the amount
of time one is on a “hot” marsh; but, the person asking does not seem to think
they are being inconvenient.
A couple of interesting things happened. The first
in the Sagarejo to Tbilisi marsh we stopped to pick up some people along the
road. When the driver noticed that one of the people had a fairly large dog in
his arms the driver would not open the door. I thought “are you kidding me?” I
don’t want to sit next to someone with a dog. Well, the person with the dog was
not happy and kept banging on the marsh to let him in. The driver was
hollering…”take a taxi” and the man kept banging. That was a first for me. I’ve
been on a marsh with chickens but thankfully not a dog. The second interesting
thing was getting on the marsh from Tbilisi to Dzevri. I got to the marsh stop
early and found a single seat by a window. It had a lot of leg room; so, I
thought I was golden. Well, the driver told me “no, you cannot sit there” and
then he pointed to a seat next to a woman who was coughing so hard I thought
she was going to bring up a lung. That is where I was to sit for the almost
four hour marsh ride. Well, I sit there or I don’t get on; so, that was where I
sat. This was also a first for me. I have never had an assigned seat on a
marsh. Most times you barely get a seat. Often I have to stand; so, maybe in
the future I will need a reservation (HA). Interestingly, the good seats with
the leg room, single seats by the window were given to the men. Such is
Georgia; the men are given priority most of the time.
Ok, so now let me begin to write about my journey to
Vietnam and Cambodia. When I last left
you we were in Cambodia and had just finishing the Angkor Wat temple complex.
We left the hotel and boarded beautiful buses and drove to the ship. One of the
reasons I picked this trip is that it set sail on my birthday; what could be
better! At dinner I was surprised with cake and candles. The lights went out
and everyone started singing. It was a wonderful surprise.
We boarded the ship at Prek Kdam, Cambodia and then cruised to Kampong Chhnang. After
breakfast we boarded tender boats and visited floating fishing villages. We had
not yet reached the Makong River. We were on the Tonle Sap River. The village
name was Koh Chen Village. This river, at least as far as I understand it,
flows backwards at times. I really didn’t
understand, but it is unique I am told.
Annual fluctuation of the
Mekong's water volume, supplemented by the Asian Monsoon
regime causes the
unique flow reversal of the Tonle Sap River.
We did see many floating fishing villages as we
traveled both in Cambodia and Vietnam and every single village had cell phone
towers, solar panels, television and cell phones. I was amazed at this. We
watched, as we floated by, as people were on computers and cell phones and when
we noticed some boats had doors and some did not the guide told us that the
door meant there were small children living there. It just seemed so odd to be
in such a remote area and people living in such primitive conditions that they
had the trappings of the modern world. I
was concerned, as we floated by, that we tourists were using these people and
locations as a tourist attraction and I did asks our tour guide about this
(sort of like a Disney ride). He said that no, the people didn’t feel we were
intruding. In fact they welcomed tourism as tourism brought money and that is
what they need. All of Vietnam and Cambodia are in position to accept more
tourists into their countries. We were told that the volume of tourism has
grown from a couple hundred thousand to seven million over the past years.
We then visited a Buddist Monastery in Oudong (which
was the former capital of Cambodia). It was a beautiful location and we were
treated to a Buddist ceremony in their great hall. At that point we traveled to
Wat Kapong Tralach Pieu and went on an ox cart ride. This was a very small
village that I am sure they have provided this ox cart service to our tour
company many times. As we arrived about thirty ox carts and drivers were lined
up waiting for us (two people had to go into the cart). We had to sign a waiver
that made my hair stand on end. In fact, I almost didn’t do this as the waiver
was graphic as to what could happen. However, I am so glad I did. It was a real
hoot! It was a bumpy ride but along the
way the children and town folks hollered and welcomed us. It was a 20-minute
ride and that was enough.
The ox cart is called “the Cambodian Limo” - J
The ship then set said for Phnom Penh. Overall, I
did not like Phnom Penh. I remember as a young woman hearing Phnom Penh in the
news over and over again. We had a city tour and I just didn’t like the feel of
the city. There was no beauty to it. There were stores and stores and stores
(mostly run by locals). There were hotels and buildings that I had no idea what
people did it them; but, it all seemed so thrown together. I know this location
was a prominent location during the war and seriously, I don’t know what if any
damage it received during the war. Maybe that accounted for the hodge-podge feel.
There was tons of traffic; motorbikes mostly. It felt frantic and disorganized.
I didn’t even want to walk around or go to the market.
We did have an excursion to the infamous Killing
Fields and also the Khmer Rouge’s S21 detention center. We were given much information from our
guides on the Pol Pot regime and the origins. I did not know that “Pol Pot” was
a political title meaning “Political Potential.” Many of the leaders did not
use their names but they used their political title. Again, I am embarrassed to
say that I know so little of this period in history.
We toured the fields and you could hear the wind as
it was so quiet. We walked and walked and witnessed the burial field where from
1975-79 a million people were killed and buried. Pol Pot killed his own people.
They say he was not insane; but, I just cannot get my head around a leader
killing his own people. As a tour group we had many conversations about this. I
for one was thinking back in history as to what I was doing during this period.
I know I heard about the Khmer Rouge regime but living across the world in the
USA it really didn’t have much impact on me.
Later that day we were to visit the Royal Palace;
however, I decided I had enough and stayed on the ship and went swimming, had a
drink, read my book and just relaxed. It was the first time in ten days that I
was not running to see something and it felt great!
The next day we spent the entire day cruising the
Mekong River. The river is so wide. Along the banks of the river there were
floating villages and here and there some houses; but, not much else. The open
spaces along the river made me think of Africa. I kept waiting to see a herd of
some animal running across the open space.
It was truly a beautiful day. It was really the
first day that we had down time. The trip was a vacation but not a vacation, if
you know what I mean. We were up at 6am; breakfast at 7am and then we were on
the move anywhere between 8 and 9am. We wanted to see as much as possible, so
it was really a working vacation with history at its core.
On the ship we relaxed, swam, read, talked and of
course we ate, ate, ate. We finally got to the “water boarder” between Vietnam
and Cambodia, as we were now leaving Cambodia and once again entering Vietnam.
(it was my first experience at a “water boarder” ) between countries. Usually
the Captain or someone on staff /crew goes ashore with the passports and visas
so that we can obtain clearance; however, what happened was the Vietnamese
officials boarded our ship. They asked for the Americans to gather in one room
and all the other guests (Canada, New Zealand, Europe, etc.) could go into
another room. We Americans were subjected to a non-invasive (in our ear) test
to determine if we had a fever. This activity, according to the staff, was very
unusual; however, we were told that the Vietnamese were concerned with (MERS) –
Middle East Respiratory Syndrome so that is why we were being
tested. We didn’t have any ideas what
would have happened if someone did in fact have a fever. Also, we didn’t
understand why the Americans were being singled out? But, it all worked out. We
received our clearance to enter the country and that was the end of that!
I just love ship board life. I love sitting on the
upper deck and watching as the ship floats along. Watching the shore line and
the boats that passed by, to me, it was so exciting. There was a lot of
dredging on the Mekong. I don’t understand anything about that; but, they say
the silt that comes up from the Mekong is very rich in nutrients and is sold
for lots of money.
The next day was July 4th and the crew
celebrated with lots of red, white and
blue cake and sparklers. We all sang the Star, Spangle banner and toasted to
the USA. As we were back in Vietnam we toured some more floating villages and
got to see workshops of rattan mats and a silk-making workshop. We also were
transported to these locations in a “xe-loi” (Trishaw). This vehicle did not
have a back to it. It was a one person vehicle with a bicycle driver in the
front of the vehicle. I really had to keep my balance; or, I was afraid I would
tip it over.
It was so funny to see the trishaw fly by when it
was carrying small children and then there was me and my driver who (with the
extra weight of an adult – thanks goodness I had less tonnage than previous)
struggle to keep the vehicle going J.
We visited local markets with all kinds of foods.
Living here in Georgia I was very accustomed to seeing markets such as what we
were seeing in Vietnam. It was so much
fun to watch the inter-action of the locals in the market.
We then arrived in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City – HCMC
(as it is called). Saigon was known as the “Paris of the Orient.” We toured the Presidential Palace, The Saigon
Central Post Office and the Thien Hau Pagoda.
We were told the difference between a pagoda and a
temple; however, I cannot remember what it was. The Central Post Office was
amazing. It was more like a train station and the architect was Gustave Eiffel.
I was very impressed with this building. It is one of the oldest in Saigon.
Nearby was the famous building that was the backdrop to the evacuation of
Saigon, 40 years ago. This famous picture was supposed to have been the US
embassy; however, it was not the embassy. The building today has many other
buildings surrounding it; as over the years the area was developed. It brought
back many memories.
After checking into another beautiful Sofitel hotel
in Saigon, we again went on tour. I chose going to the War Remnants Museum
instead of shopping and brother what a mistake that was. I was so disappointed
in this museum. In my fantasy world I really thought the museum would give a
balanced picture of the “American War”; however, that was not so. It was so
one-sided. It showed war for what it was; that is “hell” – but, most of the
museum was devoted to the horrible things that were done to Vietnam by the
Americans. I did see most of the museum; but I felt like I should have gone
shopping instead. I left early; it was a very sad time.
We did have free time and I went out to explore some
on my own. The traffic was as horrific as it was in Hanoi. I liked Saigon. As I walked, once again, I
had visions of what this city must have been like during the war and also the
occupation. In the evening a group of travelers ended up on the roof of the
hotel at the pool (on the 18th floor). Wow, what a beautiful sight.
Many of the buildings are outlined in lights throughout Saigon and we had a
front row seat at the pool. I did get to swim and just loved the pool. There
was lots of great conversation with wine and other good food to eat.
The next to the last day was spent at the CuChi
Tunnels (outside of Saigon) – link below. This was an optional tour and I am
glad I went but had such mixed feelings about it.
Throughout the tour I kept thinking that here I was
paying money to tour an area that had as one of its purposes to kill Americans.
The horrible torture devices that was created and built in order to trap
American Soldiers in the area of the tunnels made me sick to my stomach. Booby
traps were situated every place that we looked. The area had been completely
saturated with agent orange and other chemicals during the war. After 40 years
the area is just coming back to life. During
our walk around we could hear gun fire in the background. We all thought that
possibly it was done for effect; however, when we reached the mid-point there
was a gun range for anyone who wanted to pay money to shoot a gun. All kinds of
weapons were available to shoot. I didn’t see them firsthand but was told there
were hand pistols and automatic weapons. It was very scarey to hear live gun
fire as we walked around.
I didn’t go into the tunnels; although a few in my
group did. Most had to crawl on their hands and knees to go through as the
tunnels were so small and narrow. The tunnel system was very big. I believe I understood that the US Army base
built (unknown to them) their base on top of the tunnels. At night the
Vietnamese came up from the tunnels and stole anything that they could;
clothing, food, candy, cigaretts etc. I know my time there only scratched the
surface of the history associated with this place. It took 25 years to build
this underground city and the tunnels had a hospital, kitchens, weapons
factories and living spaces.
This was an all day event and it was my last day
full day in South East Asia. The next day I was to fly home to Tbilisi. I am
sure I am left out lots of good stuff; but, I have written a lot and I
appreciate your patience, dear reader, in staying with me. As I continue to
blog in August I will, for sure, insert information and observations that occur
to me about my travels. I know I am NOT done with this part of the world.
Vietnam and Cambodia are changing very fast; coming into the modern and
homogenized world that we all live in. In 10-years time I am sure I won’t
recognize the places that I visited during this trip. The world is getting
small and small and not many places are left untouched.
A final note that was really great. My travels took me from Saigon to Doha, Qatar
and I had a layover from 10pm to 7:30am (when my flight left for Tbilisi).
Friends had told that during their layover the airline put them up at a hotel;
so, I checked in at the transfer desk and sure enough, I was eligible for a
hotel room for the night. The airport provided transportation to and from the
airport and I rode through the city of Doha to my five start hotel. It was
beautiful and because of that (and I didn’t have to sleep in the airport) I
woke up refreshed and clean (had another shower) and started the flight back in
tip-top shape. One thing that was strange my hotel room did not have any
windows. When I moved the curtain to see out; it was a brick wall. It felt like
a horror movie; but, I was so tired I just feel into bed and went to sleep.
I will close for now and will, from time to time,
share more memories as they come to me.
All
the best, Catherine Lawrence, G14
Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia – 7/29/15
The
contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of
the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.
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