Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Blog, February 25, 2015

Hello, My Faithful Readers:

Sorry, no photographs with the blog….next time for sure!

Here we are – 10 months in and the BEST news is that I am HEALED!
 I recently had a follow-up appointment so that I could have my rib section x-rayed and everything came back A-ok. Thank goodness; but then, I could feel that all was well.  So, onward and upward….thank you to whoever is looking out for me “up there or down there!” J

Some days it feels like time is moving very slow and then at other times I cannot believe that I have been here for 10 months. Next month, March 2015, the group before me (the G13’s) will be meeting for the COS conference, which means Close of Service. Most of the G13’s will leave on or around July 2015 and the PC does lots of planning and scheduling so that everyone (volunteers) are not leaving at the same time. In addition, in April 2015 the new group of volunteers (G15’s) will be coming into Georgia. It is an organizational feat to manage all the details that go into volunteers leaving and volunteers coming in; as well as, managing my group the G14’s. I heard that come July 2016 the Democratic Party (USA) will be holding its convention in my home town (Philadelphia). It gave me pause as that is when I am slated to finish with the Peace Corps and return to the States (maybe!)  

Dogs, Dogs, Dogs…..so many dogs here in Sagarejo. I am not really afraid; however, I am not thrilled when I see so many dogs wandering around looking (I imagine) for food or shelter. I still have flashbacks of my encounter with the dog pack a while back; so, I am always mindful of my surroundings. So, the other day, as I was walking home, I watched as one of the neighbor’s dogs was running right towards me.  I thought that he would run right past me; however, that was not the case. With his mouth open and teeth showing he was coming right for me. I pushed my back pack out in front of me and gave it a swing so it was in front of me – using my right arm as a barrier (kinda like fighting a bull). His head hit the side of my right arm. Although he didn’t break my arm, a day or so later I noticed that it was bruised and black and blue. My arm was sore from the impact. This dog was big. His head came up almost to my waist.
I thought he would leave; however, he circled around and came back at me. I didn’t want to turn my back on him and walk away, so I picked up a rock and again thought he would leave; but, he started barking and with teeth showing and mouth open and kept making moves toward me. I threw some rocks at him but he stayed in his stance dodging the rocks. I didn’t know where to go or what to do and at this time I noticed that there was a man down near where I thought the dog lived. I started to holler at the man to come get his dog. The man just stood there and watched me with this dog. I really don’t know if he was the owner or not; but, once again I was left in jeopardy with help not coming. The man finally called the dog and the dog went running toward him. I was so angry and yet I was afraid to walk down towards the man (who now had the dog with or near him).

I stood in place for a couple of minutes thinking that I was not a stranger to this area. I was also very shaken by this experience. This man was a neighbor and everyone on this stretch of the roads knows who I am. Why would they allow this dog to threaten me?  I advised the Peace Corps (Safety and Security Director) of this incident and also my host family. I have to walk past where this dog lives in order to get to school and then come home - and I am not happy about it.  I will need to secure some type of weapon to protect myself; and also, think about the possibility of relocating. This makes me very sad as I love my host family and I love where I live; however, I cannot live in fear. I know there are dogs everywhere; however, here on the mountain there are very few people and as evidenced by my recent experience people are not really willing to help. At least if I live closer to the center of the city there are more people around as well as the sort of hospital. I will have to think on this long and hard.
Since I’ve been here on the mountain I’ve walked past this dog but he was behind fencing and chained to his dog house. Every time I walked by he started barking and jumping up on the dog house as if trying to get over the fencing; however, the chain would not allow it. That, in and of itself, was frightening. I wondered what would happen if he could get out. Now I know.

Follow-up: The Peace Corps spoke to my Host Family (HF) and the HF in turn spoke to the owner of the dog. I was told that the owner apologized and said he would keep the dog chained and not allow him to run free. I pray that this happens; however, I am a very skeptical that it will. Often what is said and what happens in reality are two different things. The Peace Corps said that if another incident occurs they would involve the police; but, my concern is that if another incident happens it may be after this dog really hurts me (not just bruising my arm) and as has been my experience I’ve not been helped by the people who witness the incidents.

I am hungry. The food here is not to my liking and even so, there are not many food options and the quantity is limited.  My host family always gives me what they have; however, it is limited. Pretty much what you have for lunch is what you will have for dinner. Sometimes, especially on Sunday, there is no dinner. Usually there is a late lunch around 3pm or so and that is it. So much salt in the food and the food is fried in grease and oil. Sometimes I wake up at night with my stomach talking to me; that is, growling and making gurgle (sp?)  sounds. I think at times that I have an entity in my body trying to get out. I do have supplemental food, like pretzels, oatmeal and tuna fish that I order from Amazon; however, even that is getting old. There is really no place here in Sagarejo to get food other than Georgian type food. The last time I brought food home (from Tbilisi) and placed it in the refrigerator to eat the next day; I was surprised to learn that someone had eaten it. No one knew who did it; but the bottom line was that it was gone.  I know this sounds petty; but, the thought of “real” food disappearing was so upsetting to me. I was so looking forward to eating something good.  As I am reading my novels and they talk about food they are eating; I am sad. I just don’t want to do much of anything while all I can think about is eating and being satisfied with food occasionally.  I cannot make myself food without offering it to the entire family and in order to do that would cost me lots of money. Maybe if I lived on my own it would be different?

Antakya
·         Antakya is the seat of the Hatay Province in southern Turkey. In ancient times, Antakya was known as Antioch and was for centuries one of the largest cities in the Roman empire and was an influential early center of Christianity; see Antioch. Today's Antakya is overwhelmingly Islamic in religion. It has a population of about a quarter 
I recently found out that there is a volunteer program that happens over the summer in Turkey. It is for a 2-week period during July. The location is Antakya and I was so excited to read that is was formerly known as Antioch. Wow, this would be excellent; however, the dates of the program won’t work for me. I will be traveling at the end of June and early July (more or that as time gets closer) – and I won’t be back in time. Very disappointed; however, I will make sure that I put this on my 2016 calendar.
I had a GREAT weekend in Tbilisi recently. I attended the (ETAG) English Teachers Association of Georgia (link below) – a conference that was held at the International Black Sea University (link below). What a terrific day it was. I met lots of teachers, both teaching at the University level as well as the High school level. Sat in on many workshops and came away with lots of new materials that will hopefully inspire and motivate my students to seeking education in a new way.

In addition, it was my first experience renting an apartment in Tbilisi. A friend and I reserved an apartment from Friday evening until Sunday Afternoon. It was in the “Marjanishvili” section of the city. It was a lot cheaper than staying at a hotel and in addition we had a washing machine to catch up on laundry. It was so convenient and very near a metro stop. We didn’t have much time to explore the area; as we didn’t arrive until late on Friday and we were at the conference all day on Saturday. It is definitely something I would do again. 

The Education East teachers (that is me) had a conference this past week. The hotel was fabulous. We had terrific HOT water for showers – I could live in the shower. In four days time, I took six showers….it was wonderful. We also had HEAT (and lots of it) and a warm room to take a shower in.  In addition, the BEDS were awesome and the bedding (pillows and blankets) were to die for. I would have LOVED to pack the blanket and take it with me; but, that is not in keeping with the values of a Peace Corps Volunteer J. The meeting topic was about Project Management and Design. I’ve done a lot of work in the area; however, we did have our Georgian Counter-parts along for the conference. This topic was a foreign language to my counter-part and I am sure for other Georgian Teachers. The terminology was unknown to them; however, the presenters of the materials did a great job in explaining the various components of designing a project and the management of it. We spent all day (from 9am – 5pm) working  - with coffee breaks and lunch in-between.
The only real down side to the conference was the food.  Breakfast was a buffet, so we had lots of choices and unlimited re-fills. Truly, it was the best meal of the day. Now, you have read many times in my blog about my feelings on Georgian foods so you will understand how disappointed I was in the food at the hotel. Lunch and dinner were served family style and 90% of what was served (although well prepared) was Georgian food. The supply was limited, so if you didn’t sit down as soon as everyone else did, well you were out of luck to get a portion of what was served. The salad, well I could have eaten the bowl of salad by myself. When I asked if we could have a refill the hotel staff told me that I could have more salad if I paid for it. We had french fries and for five people, I bet there was only about 30-35 french fries (shoe string type) on the plate. Of course, there was lots of bread and cheese, fish with lots of bones, etc. One time there were mushrooms….we all dived into the vegetable as it was in short supply. It was dismal, in my opinion. No desert only a plate of whole apples, oranges and a kewee (sp?). I left hungry and disappointed, but I filled up on breakfast – and carried a hardboiled egg and the cheese that is individually wrapped  with me to supplement lunch and dinner.
The hotel was beautiful. It had a 9-hole golf course and a big swimming pool that of course, because it is winter, we could not use. It was snowing off and on during the conference, so it was very beautiful to watch the snow on the trees. The rooms were very warm and we even had a sofa in our room (so we didn’t have to sit on the beds to watch TV).
Here is a piece of completely useless information that I thought you would enjoy. Did you know that you CANNOT buy chewing gum in Singapore? This is the type of information that is listed in the textbooks that the teachers of English use to teach Georgian students.

March 3rd is a BIG holiday here in Georgia. I’m told that EVERYTHING is closed (Schools, Yeah! -  banks, stores, etc.) . Last year I totally forgot about Mother’s Day in the States, so it seems I am going to celebrate at least twice this year. I’ve asked if anything special is done and I understand that families celebrate in their own way. In addition, International Women’s Day is celebrated on March 8th. Also a big day here; however, it falls on a Sunday. As a result, since it is NOT a school day, we don’t get a day off L

March 3
დედის დღე
Dedis dghe

March 8
ქალთა საერთაშორისო დღე
Kalta saertashoriso dghe


Today during class, that is February 25th, the Director came into the room and was looking very somber. All the students stood at attention and listened as she spoke (of course in Georgian). I didn’t understand; however, my cooperating teacher told me after that we were honoring a moment of silence to remember the events that are listed below.
1921 Republic of Georgia Bolshevistic Armies Friday, 25th February, 1921 : On this day, it was reported that the capital of the Republic of Georgia was being seized by Bolshevistic (Russian) armies. The Greeks were headed to this location to pick up the Greek Merchants and Greek refugees now there. The Turkish army had voted to remain neutral. The capture of Georgia by Soviet Russian armies was in essence signified the near end of the Independence of the Republic of Georgia. This country did again regain their independence from the Soviet Union as of 1991 (declared on April 9, finalized on December 25th). Independence Day of Georgia is still celebrated on May 26th, however. This was the date of the original breaking away from Russia which occurred in 1918. 
I want to leave you with some news about the dog situation.
 First, I found myself a BIG/FAT STICK. I do plan to take a picture and post at some point; but, in the meantime know that I (hopefully) have some measure of protection. The stick is big and fat. It is not that long as I need to carry it with me in my back pack. It does not completely fit; however, it’s a small price to pay to allow me to feel somewhat protected.  
The stick is long enough, I think, for me to ram it down the dog’s throat and that is what I intend to do. I am more prepared now than ever to deal with this. I’ve had so much advice from Georgian people on how to deal with this. One suggestion was that while the dog was threatening me I should make friends with it and (carry food) so that I could feed it. Well, that is not going to happen.
My host family told me that the family who owned the dog that attacked me has gotten rid of the dog (or something to that effect). It is a challenge with the language barrier; but, I will investigate further. In the meantime, until I am certain, the stick stays with me. My family, the teachers and everyone who has seen my sticks just giggles or laughs. Honestly, I don’t really care what anyone thinks about the stick. I’ve learned from experience that I better make sure that I do everything and anything I can to protect myself as my experience here is that the folks who have watched my interactions with dogs are not fast in coming to help.
I am very sorry for these dogs here in Georgia. They are starving and often times limping (hurt by getting hit with by cars or with rocks). It is not the dogs fault, I realize that. However, I don’t want to end up hurt.
Ok, I have so much more to write but I think you may be tired of reading J.  The month of March is right around the corner so hopefully, maybe, the worst of the winter is over.
Best, Catherine Lawrence, G14
PeaceCorps Volunteer


The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Sunday, February 8, 2015

Blog, February 8th, 2015

Hello, My Faithful Readers

I have added three photographs at the end. The first is a box of Dunkin Donuts that I purchased here in Tbilisi (you will read more about this in the blog). The second is me outside the hotel in Istanbul and before my acrobatic act and the hurt rib. The third is a photo of some of the teachers that I work with in Sagarejo. 

I have listed the link to my recent article (the 4th in the series) written and published in OpEdNews (below link) about my “rib” experience in Istanbul.


I’ve been recovering from my linear fracture of my 9th rib. I have been off duty (medical) since January 15th. As the 15th was the first day back from holiday break. The doctors had a couple of concerns as my rib was healing. The first was that I should NOT carry anything. As I usually carry books and other items when I spend the day in school, it was not wise to attend. The second reason is that the doctors didn’t want me to catch a cold being in the school. Because the school has limited heat, they felt that cold rooms would not be helpful to a healing rib. In addition, I wanted to be careful not to catch a cold as coughing would not be helpful to healing the rib. So, I’ve had a wonderful rest. I have been at home with my host family.

I will be x-rayed anywhere from 4-6 week after the event (which was January 7th), so probably around mid to the end of February for final medical clearance. In the meantime, I can go back to teaching if I am feeling better (and I do). I will take it easy and see how it goes. If I feel that I am pushing it then can adjust as I go along. I know I will regret saying this but I am getting a little “what do I do with myself” being a home for such a long period of time. I have been reading and resting and also working on my Georgian.  It has been wonderful. I’ve heard that the children in the school keep asking for me. That is so sweet of them.

Last November I requested books from an organization in Darien, CT. What a great organization. As a Peace Corps Volunteer I had to provide information as to the type of books and grade levels I was targeting. When approved my school would receive twenty-five pounds of books. Well, last week the books arrived. You would have thought it was Christmas here in Sagarejo. The teachers could not wait to open the box. All kinds of materials like National Geographic magazines for children, fiction, science book, etc. They all looked brand new. The teachers were “oozing and aaahhing” and pulling the books from the box. Now most of the teachers cannot read English; however, they were excited none-the-less.  Here is the link in the event that you want to check them out!


Soup here in Georgia is a big staple of the diet. My host mother makes a couple of different kinds of soup. For example, red beet soup or borscht; chicken soup and some kind of soup that I have no clue about. They are all good; but, they are very thin. Most have potatoes, carrots and some kind of parsley. A few have noodles but not in abundance. Sometimes they are somewhat flavorful and at other times it tastes like flavored water. I like the potatoes and carrots but a bowl of soup may contain a half a potato and maybe one quarter of a carrot stick. I don’t know why they don’t jam pack the soup with vegetables. I have given my host family some of the Lipton soup mixes to add into the broth; but, it never makes it into the soup. Oh, well – the soup is hot and I do get some potatoes. I understand from other PVC’s that this is the way other families also make their soups. Maybe it’s a practice from back in the day when vegetables were not abundant.


Another concern about food has been resolved now that winter is here. I am concerned that left over food is not refrigerated. This is especially worrisome during the summer; however, in winter (since the kitchen and the storage rooms are not heated) this is not now an issue. The kitchen and storage room are probably colder than a refrigerator. They have the remains of the pig , Wilber (remember from Christmas) hanging on hooks from the ceiling. I don’t know how they preserve the food; but, I am thinking they use salt. The reason being is that I had a piece of pork recently that was so salty that I felt I was eating a “salt lick.” I don’t want to waste food; but, I just could not eat it. The family does not say anything when I leave food on my plate; but, eating salt is just something I cannot do.

Which leads me to wonder why the Georgian people cannot see the connection between eating so much salt (and sugar) with their blood pressure? I have written about this previous as most households (and also the teacher’s room in school) have a blood pressure cuff and stethoscope. Routinely they take each their own BP or they take the BP of another teacher. I think I want to have my BP taken by the Peace Corps doctors at some point.

I just know that you all want to know what is happening with my hair!

Well, I won’t keep you in suspense because I’ve made a decision J. I am letting my hair grow. Now, you must understand that I have not have LONG hair for maybe forty (yes, that is 40 years). My hair has always been short. So, maybe I want to fit in better as the majority of women have long hair here in Georgia (NOT REALLY); or maybe it’s the 5Gel haircut (that translates to maybe $2.50 USD). The hair cut is nice when it is first done; however, when it is growing in – well, it is terrible. In any event, I have decided to see how I feel and look with long hair. Now, I know I will never get it as long as most of the women here; but, for the first time in decades I can feel hair on my neck. When I look in the mirror I sometimes don’t recognize the person looking back at me. My hair, coupled with the weight loss (now at a total of 65 pounds); well, it is disconcerting! I was able to get a couple of pair of pants at the FREE BOX at the Peace Corps Office – so that is a good thing.

So, getting back to the saga of my hair! I will continue to let it grow until I am sure it will get on my nerves. Of course now that it is winter it feels good to have hair; however, we shall see what happens with the 90’sF and 100’sF degree heat comes along.

We are going to attend another training program at the end of February. This training is PDM (Project Design and Management). I will be attending with one of my counter-parts; that is, one of the English teachers that I work with on a daily basis. We will be able to find ways to fund project through grants and also become knowledgeable in how to write the grants. Goal setting and brainstorming as to how best to use any money that we would obtain is on the agenda. This sound like a lot of fun!
We will also be doing this at a hotel – yippee!!! We make camp (so-to-speak) at the Ambassador Hotel in the village of Kachreti. We will be there for four nights. We will have LOTS of showers, real bathrooms, FOOD (3-meals a day) and heat. We cannot wait. I understand that they also have a snack bar….Heaven!!!! I’ve listed the below link in case you want to check it out! More detail to come once I return.


One of the English Teachers gifted me a book entitled’ The Knight in the Panther’s Skin.”  It is a very famous book by a very famous author – Shota Rustaveli. It is so old and so beautiful. I was so touched by the generosity of this teacher. It was translated from Georgian into English by Venera Urushadze. It is a poem that I hope to read; however, I don’t think it is going to be an easy read. I am not much for poetry (I don’t understand poetry); but, I must give this a chance. It is a hard-back covered book that has 1,582 stanza’s (I think they are called stanza’s). I will update you as I make my way through.


In early March 2015 I am going to be tested again as to my Georgian language level. I think that I will go up one level; however, I don’t think I am at the level that the PC requires. I must note that I have felt a shift in my language skills. I find that I do speak more Georgian now than I ever did. So much more makes sense and since I am speaking more I feel a little more confident in speaking. I am sure this will continue as time goes forward. I will let you know once my test is complete and what the outcome was.

I want to give you some of what I’ve discovered about the town that I am living in. Sagarejo, the settlement, was first mentioned in the written record in the 11th century under the name of “Tvali”. This literally means “An Eye.” It acquired town status in 1962. According to the 2002 census, Sagarejo has a population of 12,600 and it is 36 miles (58K) east of the Georgian capital of Tbilisi. I will do more research, but for now that is what I know.


I have noticed over and over how late my host family goes to bed. Sometimes it is as late at 1:00am, as I can hear people talking below me (the pechi room is below my room) when I get up to go the bathroom. I do not know how they can function all day with so little sleep. I see in the classroom that so many students sleep during class time. Of course, I cannot know this but I think many families stay up as late as my family. It is very discouraging teaching to students who are sleeping. No one seems to think this is odd behavior. The teachers just let the children continue sleeping and then when the bell rings they go to their next class.

And speaking of FOOD that is not really good for you…. Dunkin Donuts has arrived in Georgia. Honestly, at times I don’t feel like I am living in Eastern Europe. On my way back from training at the Bazaliti Lake Hotel we stopped at one of the NEW Dunkin Donuts (there are now 2 stores here) for donuts and coffee. It was very strange for me to be a store that looks much like what exists in America! I was overwhelmed. I could not make a decision as to “what” kind of donut I wanted, so, I initially ordered coffee. Ah, as I remembered – it was delicious. I could have sat in the store and just drank coffee all day. I did finally get a donut. I thought it was filled with cream; however, it had a lemon filling. I was disappointed; but, it was still good. At the moment, they don’t have cream donuts (my favorite) – but, hopefully that will come with time. They do sell the pound package of coffee (hazelnut and vanilla); but, I don’t have a drip coffee maker so (at the moment) I have to pass on that.

At the back of the Dunkin Donuts Shop there is a WENDY’s!  Burgers and Donuts is the same building – yummy. I think maybe Georgia is importing all the bad eating habits of the good old USA; but then, it is all sooooo GOOD! 


Water filter….I am always kind-of sick to my stomach when I see just how much sediment accumulates in my water filer. I clean the filter, usually every couple of weeks and yet, so much sediment falls to the bottom of the filter. I guess that is a good thing as since it is on the bottom of the filter than it is not in my water bottle; but, yuck! I often just buy bottled water to make sure that my system gets a dose of really filtered water (at least I hope so).

I often have terrible bouts of diarrhea and I wonder if it is the food, the water or maybe just my system not being used to all the changes. I had an experience recently (not for the faint of heart here, my faithful readers); however, in keeping with my wanting to write a “real” blog I must share this with you. Recently as I was getting ready to board the metro my stomach was giving me signals that I needed to find a toilet (I have stopped referring to it as a bathroom). In any event, I did find one outside the metro stop. Of course, it was a porcelain squat toilet but it was not that bad.  My problem with the squat toilet is that I just cannot squat low enough, so, the capturing process (if you know what I mean) does not all find its way into the porcelain (I can hear you groaning now!).  I tried my best with what I had to clean up; but, it was not great. I was embarrassed and the attendant was angry; but, what can I do. This is life for me in Georgia. It is not like finding a western toilet. I wonder if I am the only person having this difficulty. Even with the weight loss my body just won’t go that low….I apologize if this is way more information than you need – but, living life on a daily basis dictates experiences, I imagine,  we all have but no one talks about.

A memory that totally caught me by surprise was the appearance of a “Huckster” here in Sagarejo. I have not thought about this is many decades; but, hearing and seeing this unfold on the road here in Sagarejo has brought back so many memories. During my time here I’ve been hearing beeping/horn noises made by a car and also a man hollering some words in Georgian. I never gave it much thought, until one day as I was walking home on the mountain I saw the Huckster. He had the trunk of his car open and inside was lots of fruits and vegetables. He stopped many times along the road as people came out of their houses to buy items. This so reminded me of the same kind of scene growing up in South Philadelphia. We would hear the shouts of the Huckster and run out to the truck. We could buy all kinds of fruits and vegetables.  This all made a lot of sense as here in Sagarejo as well as growing up in South Philadelphia not many people had cars, so it was hard to get to the market to buy (and carry home) the items. So, if you can’t go to the mountain then the mountain comes to you. That is exactly what the huckster does. What a great memory to revisit again!

dictionary.reference.com/browse/huckster
a retailer of small articles, especially a peddler of fruits and vegetables; hawker.


I will close for now and write again at the end of February so I give you all the news from the hotel! Also, I read on the internet that Sagarejo is probably going to have some snow next week. I sure hope not; but then, it is February.

All the Best, My Faithful Readers,

Catherine Lawrence, G14
Peace Corps Volunteer – February 8th, 2015





The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Blog, January 20th, 2015

Hello, My Faithful Readers

I have included two photographs (embedded in the blog at some point). The first is my host grandmother, mother and sister and they are wearing the hats that I bought them while I was in Budapest. I also bought myself a hat but I think I was asleep when the photo was taken (Love the hat!). The second is ME in Vienna on New Years Eve. Since it was so cold most of  the photos outside have me in the same outfit (coat, scarf, gloves, hat)....not sexy, but very warm.

Here we are at almost the end of January. I am approaching the 9th month anniversary of my arrival in Georgia and the beginning of my Peace Corps experience. That celebration will happen on January 26th.

Christmas here in Georgia is still happening; but, it is almost over. My family still has the Christmas decorations up. There are Christmas commercials still happening on television. There is this one commercial that plays over and over and the tune is the first 30 seconds of the “Jingle Bell Rock.” It is driving me crazy. Santa still appears on television and the news programs still have decorated Christmas trees in the background when they broadcast the news.  When will this end? Christmas here in Georgia is celebrated on January 7th  -  My family didn’t even put up the tree until the very end of December; so, I guess celebrating into the end of January is not that unusual.

The Georgian people also have a custom around New Years. Of course, January 1st is the beginning of the New Year; however, they also celebrate something called “Old New Year.”  I don’t understand this holiday, so I’ve listed a link below if you want to read more. I’m told that the celebration is around, of course, family coming to visit and lots and lots of sweets for the table. The sweets mean that the New Year will be sweet for you. Lots of family did come to visit my host family and of course they stayed over as there was lots of drinking - wine and cha-cha. There were fireworks and guns being fired into the air. I just didn’t understand this custom and not much was said about it; so, I went to bed. Well, at 11:45pm they woke me up to come and celebrate the “Old New Year.”  This all happens on the 14th day of the New Year.  Next year I will know better.


The day I returned from my Danube River Cruise, January 7th, was Christmas Day. When I arrived home (around 9:00pm) my family was waiting for me and had dinner all prepared. It was very sweet of them to wait for me. I was texting them as I arrived at the airport so they would know when I would arrive. Well, hugs and kisses abound from everyone (even my host father) J. I know they missed me as I certainly missed them. We had dinner in the “Pechi room” – (it’s the one room that is heated). This was very special as we usually eat in the kitchen (which is not heated). The “pechi” room was all warm and cozy with the Christmas tree all lit up and lots of sweets and food that was prepared for the celebration already on the table.

There was lots of pork to eat as when I was away the pig went to meet his maker. During dinner I had to find out how the pig met his end and I was told that one of the cousins shot the pig in the head. That is the way the pig is killed and then there are many men around who butcher the pig. Now, I know I’ve eaten pork before but I never really gotten to know (up close and personal) the main course like I did with this pig.  The family brought out (cut up – thank goodness) the head of the pig. I tried not to see the remains of the pig’s face; but, they all dug in so fast to each take a piece that I didn’t have that much time to ponder what was in front of me. Of course, I declined to take a piece of the head of the pig. It is considered a delicacy here; highly valued. Not for me, thank you J

Orthodox Epiphany in Georgia – January 19th, 2015
The traditional date for the feast is January 6. However, since 1970, the celebration is held in some countries on the Sunday after January 1.Eastern Churches following the Julian Calendar observe the Theophany feast on what for most countries is January 19[9] because of the 13-day difference today between that calendar and the generally used Gregorian calendar.[10]


As a Christian I’ve only know the Epiphany celebrated on January 6th. The reason is - that is when we took down all the Christmas decoration. The link above will provide lots of information on many different traditions if you would like to pursue.  All the schools are closed; however, I don’t see any other celebrations happening here on my mountain.  (I think this will mark the end of the Christmas season here in Georgia!)

The weather here has not been that bad (so far). It has been cold and there has been snow; however, it is not as bad as I thought it was going to be. However, I must remember that we are not through winter yet. There is still a lot of time before spring arrives, so I am not exhaling yet (as I feel like I’ve been holding my breath anticipating the stories that I’ve heard about winter). My room has a small space heat that if I put it close to my bed and I use my sleeping bag, my heavy blanket from my family, wear my sweatshirt/hoodie

and long underwear; neck scarf and hat – wheeee…..then it is ok to sleep (it better be as after I get all those clothes on to go to sleep I am exhausted J. During the day if it is sunny the sun warms my room – so it is ok.  Sometimes it feels warmer outside than it does inside; but, once I am under the covers it is so warm and toasty. I just don’t want to do anything – really I cannot do much of anything. Keeping warm is the priority.

One of the things that I’ve noticed is that I cannot spend too much time in the “pechi” room. This is the one room in the house that is heated and the family - they all sleep in this room.  Of course, there is a big heating system on the 2nd floor (where all the bedrooms are); however, the family does not put the heater on – so, it’s the “pechi” room or my room to get warm.  In the “pechi” room the family has the television on at least 15-18 hours a day. The family does not go to bed until after mid-night and when there is no school usually no one gets up before noon time. So, at night when I go to get warm in the “pechi” room I am bombarded with what is on television. They watch Turkish Soap operas and some type of Middle Eastern Soap opera as well as an soap opera from India. Geezes, they are all the same..cry a little, kiss a little – over and over again. The one thing going for them is that the locations that the soap operas take place in are just beautiful. The family is just glued to the TV screen – most times you cannot hear a pin drop. Nobody moves a muscle until the commercial comes on. For myself, I want it quiet; but, that is not going to happen. I can truly appreciate that this is the kind of entertainment that gets the family through the dark days of winter. No one reads or plays games; they all just watch the tube. In addition to the soap operas they put the news on and so it goes back and forth between soap operas and news. At times the teenagers in the family will put on music videos.

The commercials keep repeating over and over. I think there are maybe five different commercials that they preview in-between the soap operas. I can play a part in the commercials; the dialogue, the jingles…it really drives me mad. So, I need to go to my room where it is kinda-a-quiet. My room is over the “pechi” room so I can still hear some of what is happening on the television and also hear the family as they talk in-between the opera.  At times the teenagers in the house are doing homework during all this. I just don’t know how they can concentrate as they are working and doing homework at the same time. I guess they are used to doing it. And then we must keep in mind that the “pechi” room is the warm room – so, if I want to be warm without all the layers of covers and clothes I need to live like the family does. I keep looking out my bedroom window so see if the BIG tree outside my window is showing any sign of life. Not yet, but I keep looking.

I had a treat recently as the family had on TLC (The Learning Channel) and a DISCOVERY program. Wow, what a treat that was. Of course it was in English; however, it was dubbed over in Georgian. The program featured was “How did they do that.” Programming on Monster trucks and cars, motorcycle racing – it was wonderful to watch. There was also a program on “Bacon.”  My mouth is still watering looking at all the ways that “BACON” can be used. I think it was filmed in St. Louis as I could see the Gateway to the West arch! I wonder why the family has never tuned into this channel before now?

Because it is usually not really warm in my room the clothes in my closet are cold. When I put something on I usually get the chills as the clothes are cold. I had an idea that works fairly well; and that is, I take the hair dryer and spend a minute or two warming up the clothes that I am going to put on. It does the trick!

I have some good news about my reading. For the first time in many, many months I am reading a book that is (what I call) a book of substance. Up until recently I have not really been able to concentrate on anything other than a Mary Higgins Clark or James Patterson. Now, don’t get me wrong they both write really well and I like their books; however, I’ve read so many of that type in my life that at times I think I could write one. So, at the moment I am reading “The Museum of Innocence” author, Orhan Pamuk. A friend shared this book with me as the back drop of the story takes place in Istanbul. So, that drew my attention. The book talks about many of the wonderful places in Istanbul that I am planning to see when I travel to Turkey – so, I feel like it is also serving as a preview of new adventures. As always, a good book to me make me feel lots of emotions and this book fits the bill. It is an usual book that at times I am loving and at times I am annoyed….so, it is a good read J.  Maybe my dry spell has ended.

In the Pamuk book there was this paragraph on smoking and cigarettes that I found to be an interesting way to look at cigarettes. The passage says:

 “Love of cigarettes owns nothing to the nicotine and everything to their ability to fill the meaningless void and offer a way of feeling as if we are doing something purposeful.”

I cannot debate the addiction of the nicotine in cigarettes; however, I do know what he means about the cigarette offering a way to fill a void as if we are doing something. I know, for myself, that back when I smoked (a million years ago) I would be bored or just wanting something to do with my hands so I would light a cigarette. I didn’t really want a cigarette but I just wanted to do something. I wanted to feel like I was doing something.  It rings true for me; but, I have never heard anyone articulate this before.  Maybe one of the reasons for my smoking 3+ packs of cigarettes a day. (I am so glad that period in my life is over for the past 25 years).

My family, and most of Georgia from what I hear, spends a LOT of time on Facebook. I am in dis-belief at how many hours are spent scrolling up and down on FB. Also, how often the cover photo is changed. Sometimes it is changed once or twice in the same day. Since there is only one computer in the house, my host family takes turns on the FB page. Not a minute is lost as one exit the chair and another fills in to begin the scroll. They are posting and commenting on just about everything that is posted.
 If not on FB, then they are looking at old photographs that are on the computer. Again, for hours and hours they sit and make “oooing” sounds remembering the event that the picture is previewing. Now, I can understand doing this once in a while; however, most times this is done on daily basis. I have tried to lead them to web sites that would help them with their English or other web sites that would help them learn about any number of topics (TED Talks, for one); but, they always go back to FB and the photographs.

So, I want to share one more item with you before I sign off. As you will have read in my previous blog I ended up (unexpectedly) spending the night in Istanbul because my flight was late landing due to weather. What I didn’t tell you was that I got hurt in Istanbul as I was leaving the hotel. I didn’t even realize I was hurt until I got on the flight back to Tbilisi many, many hours later.  I will say up front that I am recovering and have had medical treatment – so, all’s well that is ending well. The diagnosis is – I have a linear fracture of my 9th rib on the right side. The good news is that I was told it did not impact anything of real value in my body; however, it still hurt and it still needed attention. I have written an article about the experience and will post the link to OpEdNews.com as soon as it is finalized (probably the next time I post). But rest assured, my Faithful Readers that I am fully on the road to recovery.

I will close for now and won’t be with you again until February at some point. We have a training scheduled at the end of January at the Bazaleti Lake Hotel  (Traveling on the 26th and training on the 27th & 28th of January). We return to Tbilisi on January 29th. I am so looking forward to this as once again we will have REAL bathrooms, showers, toilets, and FOOD (lots of variety). Of course we will work as it is IST (In-Service Training).


Best, Catherine Lawrence, G14
Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia


The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Sunday, January 11, 2015

Blog, January 11th, 2015

Hello, My Faithful Readers:

Happy New Year!

I have posted three photographs at the end of the blog. The first is me on the cruise ship. We had just arrived on board. The second is the entrance to the metro in Budapest. As you can see, not many people trying to gain access and not a lot of security. Finally, I could not resist the photo of the sausages. My mouth is still watering thinking about all the different varieties. 

I hope that my “Faithful Readers” had/are still having a terrific beginning to the New Year! It just does not feel real that a new year has begun – but it certainly has. When I last left you I was getting ready to travel over the Christmas and New Year Holidays on a River Cruise down the Danube. For the first time in eight months I would not be in Georgia and I must tell you it felt GREAT.  I really needed a change of venue. So, this blog really won’t be about my life and experiences in Georgia; however, it will chronicle my well earned vacation over the holidays!

I guess I could begin at the beginning of my travels; however, I think I am going to start at how my vacation ended. So much of what I experienced was planned on the River Boat; however, what happened at the end of the trip was not – so I will start at the end.

I was so sad to leave Budapest. I fell in love with the city. The architecture, the history, the ease of transportation, the food (believe me…I would not lose any weight in this city) J…..but alas, my airline ticket said I had to go. My trip was to go from Budapest to Istanbul and then connecting from Istanbul to Tbilisi. The first leg went smooth, although the flight was bumpy. We were experiencing weather (snow and wind); so we were late landing. For some reason we exited the plane on the field many miles (at least it felt like it) from the terminal. We were exiting the plane onto outside steps that were loaded with ice. I was afraid of slipping; but, made it through ok. By the time we reached the terminal (we rode a GOOD 10-15 minutes in the tram) I had maybe 15-20 minutes to make my connection. I ran as fast as I could. I even tried to kill myself; that being, I tried to get onto the moving walkway going in the wrong direction – “ouch”. I just was not thinking clearly; I just wanted to get to the gate. I was really lucky as I could have really gotten hurt. After all that, I missed the flight. In my life, I have never missed a flight – so what do I do now.

I found the Turkish Airlines “transfer” desk after many people gave me directions that were not correct. I found a family who was also on my flight and missed the connection so we had strength in numbers at the “transfer” desk. Of course, the computers were acting strange and many of the attendants didn’t seem to know what they were doing. Finally, I was able to get re-scheduled on a flight leaving the next day. With my new boarding pass, I made my way to “Passport control.”  Because I was going to be lodged at a hotel overnight (outside of the airport) I had to obtain a visa – 30.00-US$. After “passport control” I was off to the hotel desk to find out where I would be staying overnight. Well, me and a couple of hundred other folks (maybe more) who had flights that were cancelled or they missed the flight were waiting at the hotel desk. It took forever, but finally got a room assignment.  Along with about 30 folks in my small hotel assignment group we all went with a representative of Turkish Airlines to find the airport shuttle to be taken to the hotel. For sure, I thought we were going to a hostel type hotel, but I was so tired all I wanted to do was sleep.

The hotel was about 30-minutes outside of the airport and it was beautiful (200 Euros a night, cheapest room). When we arrived they had dinner waiting and we were told what time breakfast would be served and what time our shuttle arrived to go back to the airport. My room was just beautiful. I was so tired that I didn’t fully enjoy it as we had landed at 11:30pm and I did not get to my room until 3:30am. Breakfast was from 7am – 10am and the shuttle came at 10am…..it was a whirlwind; but it was comfortable and I was able to take an unexpected shower and get a few hours of comfort sleeping…what a fabulous bathroom J


By the way, during my travels I stopped counting at 20 showers over the 14 days. I am sure the count went way higher….It was wonderful to feel so clean!!!
Spending the night in Istanbul was so unexpected. As we traveled from the airport to the hotel I was surprised at how familiar the roadway felt. Just like in any major city with all the trappings you find on highways and byways.  All of the signage was in Turkish (is that the language?). I was surprised not to see any English at all.  I made my re-scheduled flight with no problems; but, I now have a Turkish Visa and feel that returning to Turkey will be a definite adventure for me. (Also, I know the airport fairly well!) - J

Prior to my adventure in Turkey, I got to experience Budapest as the end of my River Boat Cruise down the Danube ended in Budapest. When I left the ship I spent 3-nights and 4-days at the Chain Bridge Sofitel Hotel in Budapest. What a beautiful hotel and so centrally located I was able to walk or take the tram to just about every place that I wanted to see. I spent about 8+ hours each day sightseeing. I’ve included some links at the end in the event that you would like more information on the attractions that I was able to see.

The first stop was the tour of the Parliament Building. This building occurs for me as a wedding cake. It is just beautiful and so big. The tour begins by going through security that rivals security at the airport. Your ticket is bar coded and you must swipe your ticket as you enter and exit. I would imagine that the exit swipe is to insure that you left the building as there are many, many places in the building where one could hide out. The tour started with walking 130 steps up into the building. Of course, there was an elevator; however, I took it on as a personal challenge to do the walk. We walked through many rooms and did see one of the legislative chambers. We did get to see the changing of the guards that guard the crown jewels. It was noted that the cross on the top of the crown was not straight and the guide said that they believe the crown would not fit in the box for storage so they pushed it in and as a result the cross ended up on a slant.  (trivia, if it is true?)


I then went onto the “House of Terror” former HQ’s of two of the countries darkest regimes (Nazi’s and the Russians). I waited, along with countless others, way over an hour to pay my admission fee to enter the building. I was in awe of the exhibit. It was well done and sobering (to say the least). I was also taken back at how little of the history I knew of this city and the role it played during the war. So many aspects of the exhibit struck me; however, when I read that prisioners who served time at both the Nazi run Dachau concentration camp and the communist Resck work camp in Hungary said that conditions were better at Dachau. I just cannot get my head around that.


I ended my first day with taking in a Hungarian Folk Dancing and Music Concert.
The days continued with visiting tourist attractions like “Historic McDonalds.”  This was the FIRST McDonalds behind the Iron Curtin. The McDonalds was very small (by today’s standards) and at the time was not considered to be “fast food” as the lines went around the block waiting for “western” food.  During the cold war Budapest was considered sort of a “sin city” of the Eastern Bloc – What happened in Budapest stayed in Budapest (ha, sound familiar)! Of course, I had to have a BIG MAC (my first in at least 20-years).

I checked out “Gellert” hotel. It is the oldest hotel  in Budapest (it is on the Buda side). It still has the backdrop at the registration desk where the room keys were usually kept (and you could also leave notes and messages in the cubby that housed the keys). So old world – it was a blast from the past.


The Gellert thermal baths, facilities separate from the hotel but close by, was not something I could participate in. I was really disappointed as I didn’t bring a bathing suit. The water temperature varies in different sections of the facility. Thermal pool range from 38 degreesC to 40 degreesC, and immersion and swimming pools are 19 degreesC and 27 degreesC, respectfully. They have a wave pool, massage facilities and even something called a “Cleopatra bath” – whatever that means. There are lots and lots of amenities to calm the soul. They do have an observation deck so I did get to see a little; but, the facilities are too big to see all. Gellert is not the only facility in Budapest. I was told that some folks go to the baths in the morning before they leave for work. What a great way to start your day!


I could write many more pages on Budapest but for now I’ll close this section with my adventures on the tram, the metro and “the eye.”  As is my practice, when I go into a city I usually take the “Big Bus” tour to get a feel for the city. However, since the cruise line did provide a bus tour I spent my time on the “trams and metro.” The hotel sells the tickets and provides information on where to gain access. I just love exploring a city this way. I usually just stay on the “tram” until the end of the line and then explore. The metro is underground but it’s an underground tram (not a train). Their system for paying fares is really the honor system as most times there is no one checking to see if you paid your ticket. And then finally, “the eye” which is a BIG Ferris Wheel (kind-a-like in London). I was scared to death. It took me a day or so to get the nerve to go on; but, since the London “eye” was not built when I was in London, I had to have the experience here in Budapest. After three rotations I was going to push the panic button; but then the ride stopped. It was enough for me. It was thrilling to see Budapest from such a height.

The River Cruise down the Danube may be anti-climatic after what I’ve written so far but it was absolutely the BEST part of the trip. They say that the “mean” age of people who go on River Cruises is “deceased” (tongue and cheek) – but it is very laid back. However, since this was a New Years cruise there were many families with children and grandchildren ranging from about 10 years into late teens. We went through a number of “locks” making our way down the river. It was thrilling to watch the process of moving the ship higher or lower using only water. The ship went through five countries in eight days (Germany (Bavaria), Austria, Hungary and Slovakia). We did begin our journey in the Czech Republic – so that makes the total of five! There were so many highlights; but if I had to choose only one to write about it would have to be Vienna (or Wien as it is known in Germany) on New Year’s Eve and day.


As the cruise staff was preparing the ship for our party we piled into buses and made out way to the theater for the Mozart and Strauss Concert (Wiener Hofburg-Orchester). It was a beautiful venue and the performance brought tears to my eyes and many other people who were sitting near me. Hearing the music born in the city of Vienna and that (pinch me) I was actually in Vienna was overwhelming. After the performance we did a bus tour to see the city at night (all lit up). We also got to see how the city was preparing for the celebration that would come at midnight.


We were told that one of the customs in Vienna was that at midnight, and for the first ten minutes of the New Year, they play the Blue Danube waltz and everyone dances to bring in the New Year. So, a midnight when we all went to the sun deck of the ship to watch the fireworks, we all danced the waltz. The fireworks started about 11:30pm and continued way past 12:30am. The city provides a fireworks show; however, since fireworks are legal in Austria the city population supplements and you have a show that encompassed 360Degrees. Everywhere I looked there were fireworks exploding.  The ship staff  brought drinks up to the sun deck and of course we had hats and all kinds of noise makers to bring the new year in. It was a tremendous. I’ve seen a lot of fireworks in my life but I’ve never seen anything like this.

I will close for now; but rest assured (smiles) that as I post future blogs my experiences during my river cruise will infiltrate my writing! My ears are still ringing with the Danube Waltz (which BTW – the Austrians call it “The Almost Blue Danube” )– very funny.

All the best as we move into 2015!

Catherine Lawrence, G14 -1.11.15
Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia


The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.