Friday, November 14, 2014

Blog, November 14th, 2014

Hello, My Faithful Readers

I've posted two photographs at the bottom of the blog. The first is the bridge - I think it is called the "love bridge" and I have no idea why -  that spans the two sides of Sagarejo. The second is the space that divides Sagarejo. I live on the right hand side of the divide. The road you see (R hand side) is the road that I walk up in order to get home.  There is also a place where cars can cross (I didn't include).

I know I won’t blog, of course after this blog, until after Thanksgiving; so, I want to wish everyone a wonderful holiday. We, in the United States, have so much to be “Thankful” for. I have always known that fact; however, living here In Georgia has intensified just how many comforts we have (I had in the US) and how these comforts fit so seamlessly into our lives. Happy Thanksgiving!

Buy Experiences, NOT things!
Sorry if this is to 'soap box" - just love the thought and need to keep reminding myself!

Since Thanksgiving is not a holiday here in Georgia, I will be spending the day teaching. However, the week before I will be at a four day conference with the Peace Corps. The location is the Bazaleti Resort Lake Hotel. We all spent some time at this location during the past summer and what a treat that was. We had WATER and HOT WATER with REAL bathrooms J.  Also, the food was excellent. There were some Georgian type foods; but, lots of other choices. Food variety is something that does not really exist here in Georgia. Mostly it’s the same old, same old and often what is for lunch is usually what is for dinner  – but at the hotel the buffet had lots of variety. We will double and triple up in the rooms; but the rooms are heated and lovely with a BATHROOM close by.


At the conference I know we will have full days of working sessions on various topics (9am – 6pm) and I will also be tested to see if my language proficiency has moved up a level. We will have breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as two coffee breaks during the day. Ah, I cannot wait!!! We will also have a Thanksgiving feast. The PC will provide the “Turkey.” The volunteers have been accumulating other staples of the meal, either by having them sent from home, or bringing them in-country when we arrived back in April. In any event, there will be (86) volunteers and countless other staff, as well as the Ambassador and folks from the embassy will attend the dinner. I’m told that it is a REAL event; one that will always be remembered.

I’ve been home sick with a cold, or flu or bronchitis (sp?). I don’t know but I do know this entity had a grip on me. I still don’t feel 100%; but, I feel better than I did. The PC doctors are just great. When I finally stopped “doctoring” myself and called Dr. T. (Her name is too long to pronounce), I gave her a blow-by-blow of what was happening. Thankfully I didn’t have to go into Tbilisi to see her. I walked to the pharmacy here in Sagarejo and called Dr. T. and she in turn spoke to the pharmacist and all the medicine that I needed appeared. Dr. T said…”go home and go to bed for at least two days.” I didn’t argue. I took a taxi up the mountain and I think I just fell over when I reached my bedroom and my bed. I had to pay for the medicine; however, I took a picture of the receipt and emailed it to the PC. They will reimburse me for whatever I spent out of pocket for medicine or other related items I needed. I’ve gone through two boxes of tissues; I don’t know if that qualifies or not; however, for sure I am being well taken care of.

One of the interesting things around all this being at home sick is that I was totally alone here in the house. Everyone was either at work or school and the grandmother was in Tbilisi having some eye surgery. The doors are never locked and I wondered what would stop someone from coming into the house and taking the few items of value that they have (e.g., big screen TV or laptop computer).  I was sleeping so much I really didn’t spend that much time thinking about it; but as I started to feel better I wondered about it. Mostly everyone here on the road that we live on has closed up their houses for the winter. I guess I still have the “city” mentality. I really don’t think my family would ever consider the possibility that they would be robbed.

So it is GOOD news for me, My Faithful Readers! OpEdNews has published another article that I wrote and I could not be happier. I have always wanted to write and just could never find the words and/or what to write about. Now, it seems that I cannot stop the words from coming! The words just keep spilling out! J

I will be writing a series….and hope to do justice, in words, what I am experiencing here in Georgia. Stay tuned!

Your article titled Marshrutka: Getting Around in Georgia! Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia

has been accepted and is now published on the OpEdNews website at:

http://www.opednews.com/articles/Marshrutka--Getting-Aroun-by-Catherine-Lawrence-Culture_Travel-141110-318.html
 
http://www.opednews.com/Series/My-life-as-a-Peace-Corps-V-by-Catherine-Lawrence-141012-160.html It also looks as though this is part of a series of articles you plan to write.
I’ve spoke about the transportation system in previous emails; but, I’ve not spoken so much about the “metro” in Tbilisi. Now, a metro is a metro is a metro, for sure. It is really the same no matter what city you go into. It is underground with lots of noise and people, people, people. The Tbilisi metro stations have a branch of the Bank of Georgia available (teller window and cash machine) in the area before you swipe your metro card to go down to the train platform. They also have a TTC (Tbilisi Transit Company) window and teller available if you need to refill your metro card. It is all very convenient. Some metro stops also have shopping available before you enter the entrance to the metro.  When you swipe your metro card the amount appears on the screen so that you know how much you have left on your card. Well, as I said a metro is a metro; you know what to expect; however, there is one metro stop that just “freaked” me out.

Tbilisi is expanding their metro system so in order to get to the very last metro stop “Vazha-Pshavela” you need to get off at the stop prior “Delisi” and change trains. Now I can understand that, no problem.  However, what comes next “freaked” me. As I got off the train at “Delisi” (along with many other folks who were also going to “Vazha-Pshavela”) was on left the station platform (I was heading West). It got very quiet. We were all just mulling around waiting and waiting. Voices seemed muffled and I for one didn’t have a clue as what was going to happen next.

I heard, very quietly, something coming down the track. I thought “if it’s the train it is on the wrong track.” It is on the track going East and I need to go West. Well, after a minute the train pulled into the station. It arrived so slowly and quietly and the train was totally empty of people. OMG, is this the train that will take me to “Vazha-Pshavela?”  The doors open and I thought I was in the middle of one of those horror or sci-fi movies that take people out of reality and into the “twilight zone.” Everyone got on and so did I. The doors closed very quickly and the train headed west (even though it was on the east track). It seemed like we were moving faster than I remembered from previous metro rides. It was an anxious few minutes for me. Finally, we arrived at the “Vazha-Pshavela” station. I guess that the West track has not yet been completed fully which is why we had to change to a different track. It was an experience for sure. I kept looking out the window watching for ghosts figures or maybe “Dorothy and Toto” to fly by as we traveled to the next station.  I’ve made the trip a couple of times since the first encounter and every time I feel like I am heading into parts unknown – “The Twilight Zone.”

Water, Water…ah, we have water off and on and sometimes we now have HOT water (water seems to be a lottery item). However, I’ve noticed something that maybe has been there all along but I’ve not paid attention. There is no water source on the second floor (where the bedrooms are); so, I need to carry water from the outside water source in 3ml containers up to my bedroom. I use the bottle over and over again and noticed sediment at the bottom of the bottle. No matter how many times I rinsed the bottle the sediment remained. I think it (sediment) got embedded into the plastic; so, I have to throw the bottle away and use a fresh one. I started to think about the possibility that the sediment was also going into the water I was drinking. Now, I do boil all the Georgian water that I use; but, maybe not all of it gets boiled out. I still use my water filter that the PC gave me; but, hoping that the sediment only looks gross and won’t impact my health…..ah, another challenge in Georgia!

I’ve  noticed how depressing the news (that gets reported) is listed on the various news sources (internet). I usually check the news once a day to keep up what is going on in the world and I usually end up shaking my head.  Maybe because it is such a struggle here for me every day (and I am sure it is going to get harder with time) that all that is reported (it seems) is sensational, if it bleeds it leads, headlines. This is just an observation from my place on the mountain!

I’ve also noticed also that there are very few, if any, street name signs posted here in Sagarejo and also Tbilisi. I’ve noticed this as more and more I want to get to specific places and the directions call for going on different streets; however, without the benefits of street signs I am usually left unsure how to proceed. I wonder if the signs ever existed or maybe someone took them down.  This is just more about life here in Georgia.

There are white cross walk symbols painted across many of the streets, both in Tbilisi and in Sagarejo; however, the drivers pay absolutely no attention to them.  There are no “stop” or “slow down” signs; let alone a stop light. Trying to cross a street here is almost a suicide wish as I believe that Georgian drivers would be more interested in getting where they were going rather than to stop a minute and let a pedestrian cross. It is almost like pedestrian’s inconvenience drivers by being in their way.

I often times buy my host family various items that I hope will make life more interesting and/or delicious – E.g., tea, peanut butter, chocolate etc. However, since I’ve been buying tissues by the truck load (due to my cold) I bought them a box of tissues also. Well, when I gave them the box of tissues they didn’t know what to do with it. They looked at the box and then looked at me. So, I ripped the top off and started the first tissue so the remainder of the tissues would pop up. They thought they were napkins. So, I pulled one and used it to blow my nose. Very interesting, I thought, that maybe they have never seen a box of tissues. I know they all have the small packets of tissues that we keep in our pockets or handbags; but come to think of it I have never seen boxes of tissues sold here in Sagarejo.

I was part of the leaf gathering team here at my home in Sagarejo. Because we live on a mountain and there are countless numbers of trees; well, that means that we have dead leafs everywhere. While gathering silly me thought we would put them in plastic bags for the trash men to pick-up. Ha, not going to happen. We piled then in the middle of the road and then set them on fire. Once done, everyone walked away but I was afraid with the flames were so high they would burn more than just the pile. I was the only one concerned because eventually the flames did die out and all that was left was the white ash of the burned leaves. This was a new experience for me and I am sure we will repeat this ritual many times before the season changes.

One of the wonderful things to do here is to watch the smoke that comes out of the “pechi” vent. Now you may think that would be mind numbing; however, let me assure you it is fascinating to watch.  Back home all of the fire place chimneys are on the roof, so you don’t get to see how the smoke comes out. Because the vent from the “pechi” is very near the porch I can sit and watch. We have had a couple of nice days so it has been pleasant to sit outside. As I was enjoying the sunshine I noticed the smoke. It comes out intermittently which really surprised me. I thought there would be a steady stream of smoke. When it does comes out it moves in whatever direction the wind is blowing; so, at times I am engulfed in smoke (while sitting on the porch) and at other times the smoke goes up, out or over. The smells are delicious. I don’t know what, if anything, they add to the “pechi” but, the aroma is kind-a like a pipe but better. I can hear my friends saying “this must be like watching paint dry” but, really it is not.

I’ve also noticed, while sitting watching the smoke, how BIG the chickens have gotten and also how beautiful the chickens are. Ok, I can hear you smiling out there saying “OMG, she has gone around the bend”; but, the feathers on the chickens are so beautiful. The colors are so rich and deep and most of the chickens have multiple layers of different colors throughout. A couple of chickens are pure white and some have black mixed in. I wondered how they stay white since they are also scrounging for food in the garden and on the road. Other chickens are beautiful shades of brown. I think about never having this experience of chicken watching if not for this Peace Corps Experience. I am loving this!!!

Thank you for taking the time to read about my adventures!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Best, Catherine Lawrence, G14 – 11/14/14
Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia




The content of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.


Sunday, November 2, 2014

Blog, November 2nd, 2014

Hello, My Faithful Readers:

Georgia does not have Daylight Savings time, so I am now 9 Hours ahead of you (those on the east coast of America). I’ve attached two photographs which will show the “Pechi” both in the living room that serves as “home base” for the family during the winter and also the pipe venting out the smoke. The “Pechi” is awesome. It throws so much heat and I love to sit by it and watch the flames of the fire. It is almost like a fireplace.

The weather has really turned cold. The temperature indicated it was below freezing. In addition to the cold, there has been so much rain and heaven knows where the sun is.  The cold just goes right through me. My host father did setup the “Pechi” in the family room.  The “Pechi” is a wood burning stove that vents out the window. I thought maybe some of it (heat) would find its way to my room as my room is above the room with the “Pechi” but that is not so. My little space heater is OK, but it takes hours and hours to get the room to 65 or so.  This will be an ongoing conversation. 

I am new to FACEBOOK and must tell you a funny story about my lack of protocol on the site. I noted that there were lots of comments about an upcoming event on the site so I took the opportunity to write a question to the person who had initiated the stream (is that what you call it?). In any event, I received an email back that I should not have used the comment section to ask a question. It went “I don’t read all the comments (are you kidding me) and I may have missed the question!” said the initiator. I just let it pass as I was LOL.

A day or so later, I received a phone call reinforcing the fact that I just outlined above.  I thought, OMG, is it really that important? What a waste of time….but, I played along. I know the person was really serious about this. On FB it seems that every time someone burps or someone makes a funny face or has something to say (while standing on their soapbox) it gets posted and every comment, no matter what, gets read as I hear people talking about what was written. I know I will get grief about this, but since I can comment or question anything I want in my blog, I just took the opportunity J

I have been noticing how different the women are dressing now that the season has gone from summer to fall. I am just amazed at the outfits that are so suggestive and beyond sexy (mostly I have been this fashion here in Sagarejo, not so much in Tbilisi). For example, the boots that the women wear are the patten leather black boots that go way up above the knee. This goes along with the really short skirts that they wear and black stockings (not to mention the long hair that is often as long at their back). The leather outfits all have assorted zippers placed in very strategic places as well as buttons placed strategically. The high heels are something else. In addition to wondering how they walk in those things (especially with the sidewalks and streets beings broken up in places); they look like shoes that would be worn in an adult films (not that I’ve seen any, but I have heard tellJ). Some outfits are made of rubber and many have belts and leather that would make a motorcycle rider proud. Of course this is not every woman (but also includes some girls) but enough to make my eyes go behind my head. In this country that is so modest that tampons cannot be sold and every time you turn around someone is blessing themselves, these outfits look more like something out of S&M magazines (again, not that I’ve been any). I just don’t understand this.



I have never seen the Hobo-Dyer Projection map and I was totally blown away. Looking at Earth upside down was amazing…I had to look twice. I’ve listed the above links if you want more information and cut and pasted some information below. I found this in one of the text books that the children were using.

The map is printed on two sides, one side with north upwards and the other, south upwards. This, together with its equal-area presentation, is intended to present a different perspective compared with more common non-equal area, north-up maps.

I had a conversation with a group of 10th and 12th graders recently during their class time. I was trying to discuss with them the benefits of participating in the National Spelling Contest.  I was waiting for the classroom to quiet down before I spoke; however, if I had waited for that to happen I would have never been able to share the information with the students.  The students never stop talking to their friends or really anyone who is within ear shot. They make paper airplanes and fly them around the room. They get up to go talk to their friend in the next row. They are checking their email/text on their phone and often times they leave the room without any prior notice. All the while I am standing in the front of the room waiting for the room to quiet down as I can speak to them. I don’t take this personally, as this is routine behavior with the regular classroom teacher. She constantly has to fight to be heard over the student conversation. I usually sit and stare as I cannot believe what is happening in the room. I want to know “why do they come to class?”  I did ask that question and didn’t get an answer from the students – just blank stares as my question is being translated into Georgian.

I feel sorry for the few students who are there to learn. They participate over the party like behavior/atmosphere that is going on. At times the teacher talks in Georgian to the students and it seems to quiet them down; but, not for long. I watch as they throw stuff (chalk, paper, whatever) out of the windows. I’ve seen student rip the curtains off the windows and poke the heating unit on the wall with pens and other items. I watch as they scratch their names and other words into the desks. I am just overwhelmed.  When I say “stop” they usually do but only for the moment. As soon as my back is turned they go right back to doing whatever they were doing. Most come to class without text books or note books/pens. I ask that they please stop talking. They look at me and then continue talking to their neighbor like I am not there. You can “cut” the disrespect with a knife. It is very thick. I sometimes feel that I am in a movie version of “Lord of the Flies” as there is not much adult supervision here. There are lots of adults in the school; and even though there are hall monitors no one stops the children from running, screaming and hitting each other and various other activities.

Maybe they come to class because there is really nothing else to do in Sagarejo. Or possibly they are looking for attention? I often think that the school atmosphere is like “going to the mall” in the United States. A group of kids hanging around and talking in the mall; however, in this instance they are in a school classroom. There really is nothing to do in Sagarejo. There is a library (not in the school); but, I cannot imagine students would want to go there. There is no movie theater, no restaurants or cafes to speak of. More times than not people stand around watching other people fix their cars or stand around the bazaar fruit stands. Maybe the students see their future in the behavior of older Georgians and figure why work so hard if this is what I will end up being? The stores all close early and even if they didn’t the stores are so little that groups of students could not hang out in them. School seems to be the place where they can socialize. Often times the boys just decide not to come to class. The room is filled with girls and no one seems to know where the boys went to.

I went to speak to the 11th grade girls about the GLOW program (Girls Leading Our World) recently. There are about 8 girl and 8 boys in the room. The boys would not stop talking and when they did and I began the orientation, they either began to talk again or were laughing so hard I could not hear myself talk. I asked them repeatedly to stop. I requested that if they could not control themselves to please leave the room so that I could speak. They didn’t want to do that but their behavior continued. What are you laughing at – I asked? I told them that I would expect this behavior from 2nd grades, not 11th graders and they laughed even harder. Finally, the teacher told the boys to leave as I was just standing in the front of the room silent. I was getting ready to leave and ask the girls to come with me. The boys left and the girls and I had a 20-minute conversation about GLOW. I just shake my head and actually feel a little sick to my stomach.

This does get me down as I really don’t know if I can make a difference here. However, one incident gave me a little hope. After six weeks of taking cell phones and other electronic devices away from the students (when they are using them during class time); and placing them on the teacher’s desk…. some students now (as soon as they come into class) place their phone or whatever on the desk without being asked. This is happening in the younger grades, so I think there is some progress there. Often times I feel like a cop patrolling the aisles in the classroom. On some level I cannot blame the children as they are not being taught self control, discipline. I really don’t know – maybe the adults have given up. However, as I expressed to my counter-part – if changes are not make in the lower grades as to behavior, etc., the cycle will just perpetuate.

Funny story about what happened recently in the teacher’s room. In Georgian (which I kind-of-sort-of understood; the teachers wanted to know what I wanted in a man. And not just a man, but my “Ideal” man. After I stopping laughing I told them “good sex and healthy bank book” Well, they were rolling on the floor. I don’t think they expected that to be said. It did divert the conversation away from me; but not for long. They told me they want to marry an “American man” – as most teachers want to leave the country and go to England or America. Georgian people are very direct in their questions so I was not surprised at their question. It did bring levity into the room; something that does not exist often in the teacher’s room.  I am sure there will be more questions around this topic. One teacher told me that the reason some women (many women) dress so provocatively is that if they cannot be having sex then they dress like they are. She referred to the women as “hens.” I really don’t know what that mean; but as I said, this conversation will continually unfold!

The school does not turn on the heat until mid-November (I am told). It is warmer outside than it is in the school building. I cannot imagine there will be a lot of heat in the school. First of all, the doors are always open as children are running in and out all during the school day. In addition, so many of the heating units are damaged – so not sure how much heat, if any, will be available through those sources. I need to go buy boots and soon or else I am not going to be able to go to school. My feet are freezing….and the snow boots I have are just too clunky to wear all day. I really don’t hold out much hope that the school will be anywhere close to warm; but, maybe I will be surprised. If children and parents would close the outside doors when they come into school it would be a good thing. I spend a lot of time closing doors, but they don’t stay closed for long.

My weekend in Tbilisi working for the FLEX program (Future Leader Exchange) Program was just terrific. The FLEX program happens in 3 stages. The first, and that is what I was a proctor for, allows anyone who wants to test for a spot in the FLEX program to do so. So, let me back up a bit. FLEX is a full year program that allows students to live and go to school in the United States. There are only 48 spots offered and to give you a sense of the number of applications, in Tbilisi, we had almost 1,000 students test. The testing goes on during the entire month of October and is happening in cities and towns across Georgia. I don’t know exactly how many students actual test; but there are lots. It is very competitive. It was so refreshing to witness so many students participate with respect and attention to what was happening. Also, the proctors had “Ronny’s Pizza” – almost like you get back in the US.

After the day of testing was over, a couple of PCV’s (husband and wife team) that also worked as proctors; we each secured a lovely hotel room and headed over for some R & R. The hotel was wonderful. They offered slippers and bathrobes. As soon as I checked in I took a shower. Ah, hot water and a warm room. There was hot water for coffee and a king sized bed with wonderful white linens and big soft pillows and comforter. I was in heaven. I have not felt that clean in some time. After that I met my friends for dinner. We wore our slippers to the restaurant in the hotel as we didn’t want to go out. Good food and great conversation was had by all. We talked for hours and then back to my room for another shower. My body was in shock J. CNN was available on TV however I could not figure out how to work the remote; but, never mind I was so tired and water logged I fell asleep listening to the rain outside my little Juliet balcony. The next morning, back into the shower and then breakfast at the hotel. What a wonderful buffet. My friends and I sat and ate and talked again for hours (it seemed). Truly, I didn’t want to leave. Now this may seem boring, but back to my room and I took my 4th and final shower. I scrubbed my feet and back with brushes that I brought with me. I was all shiney!  Alas, it was time to go AND money was never better spent than my less than 24 hours at the hotel. I must do this more often; but it does get pricey – so, we shall see.

I spent a full day recently in Telavi (a city that is north of Sagarejo). This is the city I would need to get to in the event that the Peace Corps would have to evacuate and PCV's in the region would need to consolidate to be extracted. I left my house at 7:00am and walked for a full 90 minutes to get to the place where I would get the marsh that would go to Telavi. It was so early that no taxis were available, so in that case you walk. We did get a ride about ¾ of the way down but I don’t think the car had brakes. I don’t know for sure but the person I was traveling with (who does drive) said that whatever he was doing people do when they don’t have breaks. Heavens!  The marsh took a little less than 2-hours to arrive in Telavi. If this was a real situation I would be carrying my “Go Bag”, so I must remember how far I have to walk so I pack light. 

Arriving in Telavi we had to walk another 15 minutes (up-hill) to get to the hotel that we would “stage” at waiting for direction as to status from the Peace Corps. 
Since this was only a simulation, we didn’t have to go into the hotel. We held our meeting at the USAID Offices in Telavi. There are (18) PCV’s that live in the region that I do. The PC organizes the evaluation based on regions so that PCV’s can get to the evacuation point within a couple of hours. The USAID office had coffee and cookies for us and a nice warm conference room to talk in. We discussed different situations that would arise if we had to evacuate and how to handle them. We had to fill out a (3) page document which listed detailed information as to where we lived, how someone who has never been to our site would get there and phone numbers of everyone we are connected with on-site. It was very extensive. We even had to draw maps so that the visual could provide additional information that may have been left off in the text. After that we went to the Telavi Police Station. We meet the District Chief and all the Chief Officer of each of the towns and villages that we live in. We introduced ourselves and got to ask questions and report problems if we were experiencing any. It was an impressive event. I actually introduced myself in Georgia and spoke about (3) sentences as to where I lived and what I do. It was bare bones, and not as extensive as most of the other PCV’s, but I was impressed J.

At that point we went to lunch and had to catch up with folks we have not seen in a while. We did a little shopping at the bazaar and then spent 15 minutes trying to find a marsh to get home. Another two hours later I was back in Sagarejo and exhausted. It was a day.

I got to see a little of Telavi and was really disappointed. I had a vision of the town that was so different than the actual reality (usually is). I was planning to spend a short weekend in Telavi at some point, but after this visit I crossed that off my list. Not interested in Telavi anymore and hope that I don’t have to go back before we have the next simulation next year.

My Program Manager will be doing a site visit in early November so I will get to speak about some of the behavioral/school issues; however, I really don’t expect much to change. I need to find ways to help the students who really want to be helped and find satisfaction and fulfillment for myself. Not sure how to do that; but maybe that is the point of my service here in the Peace Corps?

Thanks for joining in and reading about my adventures, thoughts and observations. All the best,

Catherine Lawrence, G14 - 11/2/14
Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia




The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Sunday, October 19, 2014

Blog, October 19th, 2014

Hello, My Faithful Readers

I have included a photo of “me” in the garden at the home of my host family. I am wearing one of the outfits I found in the used clothing box at the Peace Corps Office. It feels good to have something on that does not need safety pins or is not three sizes too big (such problems!)J . The second photo is another view of the road that I walk home on (part of my exercise program)!

Last week we had two holidays here in Georgia. The first was Columbus Day which, of course, the Georgian people don’t celebrate. However, the PC office does celebrate Columbus Day. They celebrate by closing the PC office for both Georgian and American holidays. The next day was a Georgian holiday (Tuesday, 10/14/14).  The GOOD NEWS all the schools are CLOSED for the holiday. Yipee!

Tuesday, October 14, 2014
Svetitskhovloba-Day of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
Georgian national holiday


My host family LOVES peanut butter.  I bought a jar for the family and everyone just looked at the label and gave me the question look. Trying to explain PB was useless, so I just opened up the jar and poked my spoon into it (they don’t have chunkey here, only smooth PB). Of course, I love PB also, so my eyes rolled and I smiled. They each grabbed a spoon  - კოვზი (kovzi) and dug in. I was so happy to see that they liked it also. They said “its American” when the host father asked what is was. The jar is almost gone, of course my spoon added to the jar’s demise!
 
http://www.americancouncils.ge/flex/
At the end of October I will be participating in the exam process for the FLEX program here in Tbilisi, Georgia. FLEX – Future Leaders Exchange Program.  An entire day is dedicated to the testing process for students who have applied for consideration into the program.  I will be proctoring the exam and I am sure I will be involved in other aspects of the program. I will be working with PCV’s Mary and Bear (I am sure there is a story involved in that name) to cover the event for the Peace Corps. I have been communicating with this husband and wife PC team via email, but we have never met. I am looking forward to meeting them and for the three of us to have dinner in Tbilisi after the day is over. 
 
As a reward, and also because the day ends too late to get the marsh back to our sites, we have arranged to stay over in Tbilisi. This will be my first sleep over, away from site, since I arrived here in Georgia. After Mary made arrangements for her and Bear she sent me the link so I could reserve a room for myself. I am SO LOOKING forward to this. I will have a double bed and a BATHROOM in my hotel room. I may never come out of the shower. J The room is a little pricey; but, heck I am worth it. The description also said I will have a balcony, but maybe it will be too cold to sit outside.  Ah, I will have WATER and not only that but HOT WATER. I dream about thisJ. Believe me, you will get a full blow-by-blow description when I return. Stay tuned!  http://www.hotelorion.ge/Tbilisi/
 
Speaking of water….here in Sagarejo the water situation is really getting old; and yet, I am only at the beginning of this challenge. All summer we had water without a problem. However, I am told that because so many families on the road that I live on pull up stakes for the winter and move elsewhere, the water flow is adjusted. That means very little or no water. I am so annoyed when I turn on the spigot and no water. At times, when there is water, it is brown and yuckey. I am thankful that the water does not smell; but, it is terrible to look at. I must remember to always bring my water bottle when going to brush my teeth. Forget about washing face and hands. In addition, when there is water it is COLD. I imagine the hot water heater cannot do its job with so little water available. 
 
The good news is (I always have to look of the good side) is that when I can wash my face (in cold water) I am shocked into being awake!  OMG, because nothing is insulated I wonder how the pipes don’t freeze (or maybe they do). The family always has big buckets of water around (obtained when there is water) so they can heat (the bucket) for the bucket shower and also to use to flush the toilet. Many members of the family use the outhouse; however, I don’t want to do that unless I have to. The good news is the time spent in the bathroom is critically limited. You do what you need to do and GET OUT. The bathroom door to the outside (outhouse) closes but you can see and feel the air pushing in. I now have a bag that I take to the bathroom and it consists of toilet paper (you never know when the roll ends up in the outhouse), water bottle, towel, toothbrush and paste. Sometimes during the day the water comes back on and you just never know when that will be – so, as the boy scouts say “Be Prepared” as the water may turn off if I go back to my room and pickup my bathroom bag.  Nothing is easy here!
 
November 2nd begins daylight savings time in the US. I don’t think they have DST here in Georgia; so, instead of being eight hours ahead of the USA I would be 7 hours ahead….need to check this out.
 
I recently had a nasty case of Montezuma revenge. I had to miss a day of school and ended up in bed for most of the weekend. I don’t know what brought it on. I do try and be careful with what I eat; however, maybe it was just something going around.  My family and many families here in Georgia don’t refrigerate food once it is cooked. If there is food left over it will either get put in the cabinet (keep away from the cats that just jump up on the table and help themselves) or on the window sill. I am ever vigilant of this so that I know I won’t eat it the second time around. No one else seems to have a problem with this practice. The PC did warn us about this and recommended that we tell the families to make sure they place left over food in the refrigerator. However old habits die hard and most times the families just go back and do what they always do. Also, the refrigerator is very small in my house; so, maybe the food won’t fit. 
 
I just read that the Peace Corps has an ALL VOLUNTEER conference the week before Thanksgiving. At that time I will have a language test to see if I have moved up in language ranking and also lots of training sessions (which will be outlined once I get the program). Also, there is a Thanksgiving dinner, I’m told. The volunteers take charge of this and the Peace Corps provides the beverages (soft) and the turkeys. I say plural turkey as there was be about 120 people sit down to celebrate Thanksgiving. I am a G14 (so everyone in that group) as well as the G13 (everyone in that group). The staff, tutors, coaches, etc., etc.,,,lots of folks. We were asked when we arrived back in April to bring with us items for the dinner. For example, powdered cheese, and vegetable soup mix and things like that. There is a big box at the Peace Corps Office to place Thanksgiving food items into. This should be a wonderful experience.
 
I remember back in 2006 (when I was in India) we were traveling during the Thanksgiving holiday period. We stayed at a small hotel so our group filled the entire hotel. As a result, we had the dining room to ourselves. On Thanksgiving night we pushed all the tables together and made one long table. We had Indian food for dinner that night. No turkey and all the trimmings; however, I still remember how wonderful it was to celebrate that holiday so far from home and the United States. I think it will be the same here in Georgia. I think that knowing what you are thankful for is important to remember on that holiday. 

Prospero’s Book shop in Tbilisi. http://www.prosperosbookshop.com/

I’ve been hearing about the book shop for months now and finally had to make a trip into Tbilisi to check it out. This bookstore specializes in books in English. They have a fairly decent selection and also a children section; however, most of the store is dedicated to coffee and related products.  It has been six months since I have been in a library or a bookstore; and I was having withdrawal symptoms. So, away I went to Prospero’s. It was the first time that I’ve been in the area that the bookstore is in. It is on Rustaveli Street, which is a very big street. I wanted to walk to explore the area and not take a bus or a marsh. In my travels on Rustaveli  I found the Marriott Hotel and lots of other shops (some high end and some bargain basement). It was a lot of fun. I just love exploring in this way. I finally arrived at the Bookstore and it was OK. As I said, lots of tables and chairs for people to sit and work of their computers and or socialize. I was hoping for a “cheap bin of books” to look through; but, not to be had. I don’t think I will make a trip back as the books were very expensive and I have other resources for my reading addiction. The PC has a library that would take me decades to get through (and more books are added every day).

The good news on Rustaveli Street was that there is a McDonalds near the metro stop. I have not had a McDonalds in (I bet) twenty years. So, I treated myself (breakfast) to a Big Mac. It was really good, or maybe I was really hungry. To be honest I could have eaten a few more; but, I did restrain myself.  The last couple of days there has not been a lot of food here in my host family house. There is always potatoes and bread on the table; but, as much as I love potatoes having the same thing everyday gets really old. It was great having a sandwich in my hands and it was an American burger….I can taste the difference J

My day in Tbilisi consisted of: McDonalds for Breakfast and a pizza for lunch. There is a GREAT pizza restaurant (Ronny’s) not too far from the PC Office. It is almost like being in America. I ordered the “medium” and didn’t realize how big it was. I got lots of funny looks from folks in the restaurant when they brought the pizza. “Is she really going to eat all that?”  Well, of course I didn’t but it was terrific having LOTS of food before me for the taking. Leftovers went home with me for dinner. It was a wonderful food day.

The National English Spelling Competition (NESC) is beginning here in Georgia. I have listed the FACEBOOK link which provides all the information. You DO NOT have to be a FACEBOOK member to obtain the information.  This is really exciting stuff here. This is the 3rd year of the competition and it has been a BIG success in helping students with spelling English words. The FB site does have the words listed that the students will need to spell. They are broken down into two sets. The first set is for grades 8 and 9; and, the second set is for grades 10, 11 and 12. The Georgian people are very big on competition; so, this spelling competition has been a hit.



I have started sessions with the students to work on learning the words.  Students actually showed up…that surprised me. Six students came the first day and seven students came the second day. We worked for an hour, as that is the ceiling for their attention span – these are 8th graders.

Good News: Wanted to share good news with you and that is I've been published in an on-line newspaper (see link below). Initial I was asked to write from a political perspective here in Georgia; however, as a PCV I am not permitted to get involved in politics (on any level). So, the publisher agreed to print my piece in the Life-Arts section....a friend of a friend (based on my blog) thought that I would be a good match. 

I am going to write a series or chronicle or diary (not sure what and is there a difference between the three categories) - but they will be written by me from the perspective of an older volunteer up-rooting her life and beginning again. I think my next piece will be about the “marsh” – as this vehicle “the marsh” is such a BIG part of my life here in Georgia.  
 
Your article titled: My Second Act
has been accepted and is now published on the OpEdNews website at:

http://www.opednews.com/articles/My-Second-Act-by-Catherine-Lawrence-Hope_Peace_Retired_Second-City-141012-148.html
 
Dogs: All has been quiet here for me in Sagarejo as far as the dogs are concerned. For some reason I don’t feel afraid; however, I am ever vigilant walking. I connected with the Peace Corps Safety and Security Officer and she gave me the “dog zapper.”  You can hold this device in your hand and push a button to release a zap. I’ve not tried it yet. I have to see if it works on batteries…probably. Like I said in an earlier blog, sometimes it works and other times it does not – but, I will take my chances that it will work when I need it (don’t have a choice). I don’t have any hope that the country will take any action concerning the horrible state-of-affairs where the dogs are concerned. It is very sad.
 
Well, life is moving really fast here in Georgia. It is the middle of October and coming up on being in-country six months. Before I leave you, just a couple more shares….and this goes into the completely useless information file. When you hiccup in Georgia it means that someone is thinking of you….told you it was useless J. 
 
Also, I took my weekly shower at the Peace Corps office yesterday. It was dreamy. The shower gave me all the hot water that I could stand and for as long as I could stand it. I was the second person in line for the shower and after me other people were waiting. It seems that I am not the only person with water issues at their site. I didn’t even bring a change of clothes; but, heck – I was clean. On the day of my weekly shower I spend a lot of time just sniffing my arms. It feels so good to be clean. The PC office does supply the soap, shampoo, etc….so, the volunteers don’t have to cart that stuff with them. Heaven only knows whose towel I used, but it looked clean. Ah, the things we do when faced with no or little alternatives. I do feel a little better knowing that as the really cold weather descends on me I can go to a really warm place and have a hot shower. It means traveling to Tbilisi, but for me it will be worth it! 
 
My thanks to all sharing this wild ride with me.  
 
Best, Catherine Lawrence, G14 – 10/19/14
Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia





The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Thursday, October 9, 2014

Blog, October 9th, 2014

Hello, My Faithful Readers:

I have posted two photographs at the bottom on the blog.The first is of the “Churchkhela” that I wrote about within the blog. This setup is on 2nd floor landing where the bedrooms are. Walnut cover the ground! The second is the road I walk to get to my house. I live where the road ends...you can see the end of road and from that point on its all dirt and rocks. I could not do a selfie, so I placed my backpack on the right hand side of the photo. My house is a ten minute walk from this point! 

I have heat! My host family has given me a small space heater to use while I wait for the heating system that (I’m told) will be installed in my room. The heater is OK. It keeps the room around 68-70F, but since you can see daylight through all the windows and doors I still need to wear lots of layers. The rest of the house is cold, so I feel very fortunate that I can be somewhat comfortable. I don’t know when they will place the “pechi” in the common room on the 1st floor (kinda like a living room – but the room the family lives out of during the winter). It has been raining A LOT so it has been damp and raw. The temperature outside has been in the high 50’s and low 60’s. Concerned about when it gets down below zero. We are all waiting for the sun to re-appear. It has been so overcast, rainy, cold and raw. Hopefully, it will be a little warmer when we can see the sun again!

The school heating will be another story. Although there are heating units attached to the walls in the school, most times no one closes outside doors so cold air is always pushing into the school. The children just run in and out (before, during and after classes) so even when I close the doors they don’t stay closed for long.  I have had to stop children from poking pens and other things into the heating units. Many units don’t have the top cover on it. Many of the windows either don’t close or are not fitted correctly, so even though the windows close cold air seeps in. This is going to be a challenge. The sage continues……..

I wanted to share the below link about one of the special places here in Georgia (Svanetia). I’ve not been; however, it is on my list. I’ve always had a special interest in the Middle Ages as I think at times (and in some circumstances) we are still living in the Middle Ages. Hope you enjoy!


A wonderful article in National Geographic.

A couple of interesting encounters here in Georgia…

Recently, I was in Tbilisi for a meeting of the NESC (National English Spelling Competition). I got to the location early, so I picked up a “Schwarma”  (sp?) and sat outside to watch the comings and goings. I rarely get to do that as I am usually on such a tight schedule. In any event, as I was sitting and enjoying both the food and the happenings a man came to sit by me on the bench. He started a conversation. He was Russian but has been living in New York (Brooklyn). He was well dressed and well spoken, so I didn’t have my “alert” on.  As the conversation continued he started talking about how he was robbed and that everything he had was taken. Ok, now I get it. I was a “mark” for money. I said I could not help him, wished him well and good luck and took my sandwich and moved to another bench. Well, he followed me and continued talking about his being robbed. Again, I said I could not help him and moved. Once again, he followed me but this time he told me that “my heart was so cold” and that “I would not be rewarded for not helping him.” At this point, I was looking for a policeman or was going to go into the building for my meeting. He was very persistent. There are so many beggars here in Georgia. I noted that most of the time I witness people, especially on the metro, give the people money.  I think they think that everyone should.  He finally walked away and didn’t come back, I was very happy about that.

There is this one woman I see on the METRO who is carrying a baby, maybe 3 months old. I have seen her maybe a half dozen times and every time I’ve seen her I have not seen this baby move, cry, fuss in any way. The baby is always in the same position. I started to think that the baby is really a doll. A life like doll, but I am starting to think that it is not a real baby. I am uncertain as I hate to think in those terms, but babies just don’t sit that still, especially with all the noise on the metro. That child never moved a muscle.

Another adventure I’d like to share; however, before I start I wanted you to know that everything worked out ok. Although I did get hurt, I’ve met with the doctors had more rabies shots and I am fine….so here is my experience…(one I don’t want to repeat).

Recently I was walking down the mountain to meet my language tutor for our 8:30am meeting. On the way I noted that the bakery (of sorts) was open and that newly baked bread was ready. It always smells so delicious. So, I stopped and picked up a couple of loaves for my tutor and her family. When I buy food I usually place the food in my backpack; however, this time I had the bread wrapped in newspaper (that is how they do it here), placed the bread under my arm and off I went. As I approached the bazaar area I noted that there were, as usual, many people (men) who were getting their outdoor stands ready (fruits and vegetables). When suddenly a bunch of dogs came out of nowhere and ran towards me. For some reason I didn’t think initially there were after the bread. I thought they were after me. I started to scream. The dogs were jumping up on me and I was screaming. One dog, I thought he was going for my face, bit me on the leg as I moved my arm up to protect my face. I was still screaming. Now, all this felt like it was happening for minutes but I know it was only seconds. I think my screaming finally stopped the dogs as they ran away. There were maybe 5 or 6 dogs. It all happened so fast. One dog did manage to draw blood. My pants were ripped. I stood in the same spot unable to move at first. I could not believe what had just happened.

When the dogs left I looked around at all the men who were standing watching this unfold. Not one man came to help me. It took all my restraint and remembering that I am a PC volunteer to not scream at these men “WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOU PEOPLE?”  They just looked at me. I am continually told that Georgia is a country that has tremendous hospitality; however, there was nothing hospitable about their actions (or in-actions) towards a woman who was being surrounded by a pack of dogs. I was stunned at their behavior and I am still shaking my head.

The Peace Corps doctors had me make a trip into Tbilisi so that I could start the booster rabies shots. I’ve had three shots since I arrived in Georgia; and as a result of the dog bite I had to have two more. One shot on day “0” – the day of the bite and then another shot on day “3”. The bite is not infected and according to the doctors is looks good. The area around the bite is all back and blue and I have medicine for that. I am not in any pain as the bite was not deep.

I was told that the Mayor of Sagarejo was called to report what happened to me. I don’t expect anything to be done. It seems to me that these conditions are normal here, which is a very sad state of affairs. I had to laugh at the PC doctors as they wanted me to identify the dog. Are you kidding? There are so many dogs and they are all in such bad shape. They wanted to isolate the dog to watch it. I don’t blame the dogs as they are treated horribly here in Georgia. They are starving and mis-treated. You can see their ribs and like I said most of them limp because they get hit with cars. Hungry dogs are dangerous and a safety and security issue.

I do plan to get some kind of protection. Not sure what as I need to speak to the PC safety and security officer. I’m told there is some kind of device that they have given out, so I want to investigate that.  But, I am also told that sometimes the device works and sometimes it does not. If I want to stay here I will need to figure out how to deal with these dogs as they are not going away.

The bottom line is that I am fine. It could have been a lot worse so I am grateful for that. Between my fall and now the dogs I think that someone is looking out for me somewhere in the universe so that I can finish my service here in Georgia for the full term of 27 months.


On a lighter note, my family has been making “Churchkhela”. I’ve copied the Wikipedia link for more information about Churchkhela.  This candy looks like a sausage and after it is made it is hung out in the sun. My host grandmother spent hours and hours (with needle and thread) putting the walnuts on the thread. I didn’t see what she did after that; but, the end product is very sweet. I do try and be polite and eat a little, but I really don’t like it. I will post a picture at the end of the blog so you can see the Churchkhela hung out on the landing outside my bedroom.
Being here in Georgia has certainly made me appreciate all the benefits I’ve had living in America. I say that because so many of the women that I’ve met who are my age or younger seem so much older. Many are hunched over and you can see on their faces that they have had a hard life. In comparison, my life has been easy. I’ve had the benefit of consistent health care and preventive health care. I’ve had the luxury of indoor plumbing and heating and also a diet (when I follow-it) that is full of variety and nutrition. It is a hard life here and I am sure it was probably harder for these women in previous years.

Back to the weight loss….wow, I am still overwhelmed by the amount of weight I’ve lost and I am not even trying. I don’t think about food a lot (not as much as I thought about it in the states).  I just realized the other day when I went into Tbilisi to see the doctors that from my house in Sagarejo to the PC office in Tbilisi, it takes me a little over 2-hours (each way).  It takes me twenty minutes, or so, to come down the mountain to get to the Marsh hub in Sagarejo. The marsh never leaves as soon as I get there, so that coupled with it takes 45 minutes (depending on Traffic) to get into Tbilisi. At that point I need to take (2) subway lines and then walk about four blocks to the PC office. Whew…..That amount of time is equal to going to NYC from my home city, so I can completely understand why I am tired when I get back from Tbilisi. I also live on the second floor here in Sagarejo. Back home in the states I didn’t have steps to contend with (just elevators). However, here in Sagarejo I must walk up and down the steps (I am guessing) maybe a dozen times a day (could be more). Everything (food, bathroom, people, etc) is on the 1st floor. So, add that exercise into the mix. It never fails that when I get downstairs I always remember something that I needed on the 2nd floor. I really miss not having everything on one floor.

The PC office as a FREE box that PCV deposit old clothes or things they don’t need any more. Yours truly has scoured the box and found a lot of good stuff (that fits my new body).  Clothes here in Georgia are very expensive, so until my weight loss stabilizes; I will use the FREE box or lots of safety pins J.

I’ve noticed that the Georgian people (at least those that I’ve come in contact with) don’t get the concept of “doing the least effort for the most benefit.” I think economies of scale may also fit into this. They make three of four trips (back and forth) to get something when they could have gotten everything at one time. Back and forth, back and forth – it drives me crazy. I had to change the position of my chair on the porch as all this back and forth was in front of the chair I usually sit on. They pick something up, then put it down…and then go back and pick something else up (that was right next to the first thing) and then put it down. This goes on endlessly. I don’t understand why?  I’ve also noticed this in the school with the teachers.  They go back and forth in the same way to get a pencil. Then go back for paper. Then go back for the something else when all these things are in the same place and could have been taken all at the same time and made one trip. As I said, this drives me crazyJ


Buy Experience, NOT THINGS.
 I just love this mantra and when I really think about it I believe my life (or parts of it) have revolved around this thinking. I know that behavioral economics is not a new concept but it was really helpful to me to read about it. Just thought I’d throw that in!

I’ve noticed that my host family keeps a gas burner lit most of the time when they are home, sometimes two burners. I am sure it does a little to keep the kitchen warm; however, I’ve always been lead to believe that it is so dangerous to have a burner lit (especially when everyone is in the other room). The first time I noticed it I was taken back but then realized this is just another thing that they do here.  The Peace Corps gave all volunteers a CO2 and smoke detector that they insist we check weekly to insure its working status. I imagine they know what they are doing, especially with (as evidenced above) all the methods the Georgian people use to keep warm. This will be an interesting winter.

I will write more next time about my teaching schedule as it has changed.  This is so challenging for me; that is, not knowing what I am doing. I don’t know until the day before what grades I will be teaching. I keep telling the teachers that this makes it impossible to plan; however, most times the syllabus is usually to just follow the text outline in the book. (which BTW is so boring (the text). I also cannot begin to schedule any of the after school programs that I’ve been asked to do as I have no idea when my classes end. So far, I have been asked to start a reading club for the 4th grade, an English club for the school and to organize adult education classes in English. I really don’t know the best ways to accomplish this as I am told the Georgian people lose interest in clubs after about 4-weeks….so, we shall see how this unfolds.

Ok, I will close for now and again thank you for sharing this crazy roller coaster ride with me. I am up and down and all over the place. I am constantly trying to figure out ways to deal with all that is being thrown at me. Stay tuned! J

Best, Catherine Lawrence, G14- 10/9/14
Volunteer – Peace Corps Georgia
Teacher - მასწავლებელი  (Mastsavlebeli)


The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.