Blog, June 8^th, 2014:

Hello My Faithful Readers:

If it seems like I am counting the weeks, then you are absolutely correct. Today ends week (6) and onto week (7) – the half way mark (or thereabout) of PST (Pre-Service Training). The days feel even longer (if that is even possible) and the work gets harder; as I still have no relief with the language and the only older adult contact I have is on email or phone (and that is sparse as everyone is as busy as I am). The language has been an on-going issue from day one. It moves to fast for me and as time goes forward it just keeps getting worse. The material builds on the previous day’s work; and when you really don’t understand the previous day’s work; well, it has been very painful for me. I hold onto the fact that PST will be over in 6-weeks (or so) and once at my permanent site I won’t have the same kind of schedule as I have at present. There will be more time to arrange for a tutor to really begin realistic language training. I will also not be part of the cluster of five other volunteers who are all younger than my son. It will be a relief to be on my own.

Hopefully, once at my permanent site I will be able to connect with my community and older volunteers on an on-going basis. This is something that is missing during PST. I feel like a boarder with my host family. I see the family when I come for breakfast and for dinner or tea after a ten hour day (sometimes longer). I am exhausted when I arrive home and then have to face homework, lesson planning and getting ready for the next day. I’m told all of this will pass, but its surviving the “in the mean time.”

I’ve heard that we are going to have a simulation (or practice) of the evacuation plan.  The schedule is all very hush-hush as we can’t know when it is going to happen. There are four (maybe 5 steps) to the Evacuation plan. The first is “ALERT” where we are told that there is a situation PC is monitoring and we need to be aware that a potential problem may exist. We were notified of the ALERT last Saturday, so the process has begun. The next stage is “STANDFAST” where we are told that an emergency situation does exist; but for the moment to stay put and make sure that the “Go Bag” is ready. CONSOLIDATION is where all the volunteers meet at a pre-arranged place to be ready for the EVACUATION stage. Even though this is simulated, we have to prepare and implement the plan as if it was real. It is a good practice, I think so that we are prepared and know what to do.

When I was out WEST in Georgia I noticed there were palm tree all over the village (Bakhvi). I asked if they were native to the area and was told they were. I also wondered how they survived in winter. Bakhvi does have cold winters with snow. Also out WEST there were a few cars that had the steering wheel on the right side of the car, British Style. I also found this of interest as I didn’t expect to see it. One more thing (about out WEST) that I wanted to share.  The host family that I stayed with had an orchard of Hazelnut trees. So many trees, and I didn’t know that Hazelnuts grow on trees. The nuts are picked by hand, as each nut has a green leaf attached which needs to be removed. The family has so many trees that they have to hire staff to come in to do the picking. This is done in August. I’ve had Hazelnuts here in Georgia and just love them.

There is no dating culture here in Georgia (to speak of). It is a very modest country and there are very few if any outward signs of affection in public. I wondered how the teenagers deal with this situation. I was given a real life story about a friend (of a friend) whose daughter, at 18, ran away with her boyfriend or maybe just a boy that she knew as dating is not really encouraged. Once that is done the couple, even though they are not married they, for all intents and purposes, are bound together and will marry at some point. I was told that lots of young people handle things this way. It is upsetting for the families as usually there is no advanced notice. The kids just make a decision and then let the families know after they have left together. Eventually families come back together but there is a lot of stress associated with the reunion of your newly married children. I wonder how the television shows and popular music have impacted Georgian society, especially for the young people.   Some of the music and MTV related shows have made their way into singing and dancing in the schools. I’ve not heard it but I’ve been today there is something called “The Rape Song” that is played on Georgian television programming very often. The soap operas deal with abortion and infidelity (among other things). I’ve seen their version of “Dancing with the Stars” and the outfits and the routines are very scanty and suggestive. The teenage girls in school copy the suggestive dance routines of some MTV videos. In a country that is so modest that tampons are frowned upon (and hard to buy, if at all) I wonder how these new, or fairly new, visuals will change their way of living. I had a good laugh recently about all the condoms that were part of my medical kit. Ah, you can really tell that the PC is a young person’s adventure because as an older volunteer I need Ben Gay and Advil, but instead I get condoms. It all still makes me smile.

Update – I received my final rabies shot and the continuation of the Hepatitis shots. I will be glad when this is over. Also, we signed all the paperwork for our bank account with the Bank of Georgia. Not sure when we receive our bank cards but it sure will be great to have a bank card. The PC gives us our allowance in cash (GEL – the Georgian currency).

I noticed during my travels on the Marshrutka that people don’t use luggage. Most people carry items in plastic bags that are so thin (you can almost see through them) and that your finger could poke a hole in it very easily. Most people have multiple plastic bags that they are carrying. I wonder why whatever is inside the bag does not just drop out. Also, the plastic bags are all different bright colors.  Another topic is brooms. Georgians use brooms that are maybe 3 feet tall. What this means is that you are bending over while you sweep. The brooms are everywhere and yet no one has ever thought to make the broom taller so that you don’t have to bend over? When I get finished sweeping I have a back ache that won’t quit. We have asked people this question as to why don’t you make the brooms taller but no one has an answer. It is like they never thought about it. Ah, my faithful readers, I bet you are wondering why I am having such “deep thoughts” about brooms and plastic bags. J

Sugar is another topic here in Georgia. I have watched in horror at the amount of sugar used in tea or coffee. At least (3) heaping spoons of sugar. I still use my sweet and low (as long as it lasts) and I know people who look at me in horror as I add my sweet and low; but, I still use it also. All the doorways in the house have full length (floor to ceiling) curtains on them. It seems that once the room is not in use the curtain gets pulled so that you can see into the room; but, the sheer curtain is a barrier of sorts. It is a lovely visual.

Next week at one of our technical session we are going to have a lecture on “Soviet Legacy.” That should be interesting as this country was (and still is in some areas) connected to Russia. There was more rain on Saturday. I asked if this amount of rain was usual and was told that no, the amount is not usual. In addition to the rain, we had hail. My host father ran out of the house while it was hailing and was trying to cover the car windshield with blankets. I guess this is not the first time. It was really intense. Which brought to mind that many of the “Marsh’s” I rode in had a crack in their windshield. I thought it was a result of the road conditions, but maybe hail? While on the “Marsh” topic, (you will hear a LOT about the Marshrutka’s while I am here). In Tbilisi there is an aerial tramway that most people call “The Rope Marshrutka.” I just loved that phrase when I heard it. I plan to ride the “The Rope Marshrutka” when I finally get to Tbilisi. I hear it is truly an American City and that they have the BIGGEST Wendy’s in the world – what a distinction that is J.

Next week is the last week of school here in Georgia. Because the schools were closed for a couple of weeks recently we (PC volunteers) are teaching next week. Ordinarily we would not have been, but we need the practice (or so they tell us).  The teachers really don’t anticipate many of the students coming to class, so we need to think about some games for the students to play. The last week of school is usually light no matter what country you are in, so we shall see how it goes.

All is well in Georgia. Only Persistence is Omnipotent. Six weeks (or so) to permanent site. Hanging in. 

Catherine, G14

Power just went out due to the storm. So much water; my friend MUD will be here soon!

Note: The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Blog, June 4^th, 2014

Hello Everyone….

It has been an amazing couple of days. When I last left you J, I was going to travel out WEST in Georgia. The purpose of the trip was to job shadow one of the (G12) volunteers, who will be leaving in June or July, 2014. I was going to travel with two other trainees (like myself).  We were to travel to Bahhvi, a small village in the West. We had to make our own travel arrangements, but we had help from the G12 who we were going to shadow as well as stay with her and host family. In order to get there, I had to take (4) Marshrutkas (it is like a small van.) The first leg was in my village (Osiauri). I had never taken one before so I was unfamiliar with the route and timing. My host sister helped me. It costs 50 Tetri.

Coins: Freq Used: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50         Minor Unit: 1/100 = Tetri

Well, I almost killed myself getting on the “Marsh” as I tripped and almost fell into the driver. This was happening while my host sister was telling the driver, in Georgian, where to let me off. As I sat down, I immediately saw at my feet a woman who had about four bags of small chickens or something chirping.  The “Marsh” was packed as this is the main vehicle for people who live in the village to get back and forth to Khashuri (the next biggest town) for shopping, etc.  I was headed to Khashuri to meet my travel mates and get the next “Marsh.”   I always draw stares being the American in the village. I was trying to act confident, like I knew what I was doing, but “Marsh” culture is acquired and I know they knew this was my first time.J The village “Marsh” is about 100 years old. I am exaggerating, of course, but it is an old van. It is meant to hold maybe (15), but at any given time there must be in excess of 25 or more (plus chickens and bags and bags of whatever villagers are bringing home). It is packed to the rafters. There are no set locations to get it. You just stand on the road and flag it down.

Once in Khashuri I met with my group and a G13 Volunteer who had knowledge of  how to get the “Marsh” going to Kutaisi. There are no bus stations like there are in the States (e.g., Greyhound).  What you need to do is stand on or near the road the flag down a “Marsh” that has a sign in the window telling you where it is going (Of course, the sign is in Georgian).  Now, this is a bigger operation than the village flag down, as in Khashuri you are in a large town with traffic zooming past. Also, there is a 2 foot gully between where the sidewalk ends and the street, so you don’t want to fall into that. The “Marsh” pulls over to the side and then conversation about cost, and how many seats are available. Our G13 connected us with a “Marsh” that was coming from Tbilisi and will end up where we were going, Kutaisi. It was a new Mercedes 25 passenger and we got the last three seats. The cost is 6 GEL (each GEL is worth $1.75 USD, at last count). There were signs in the “marsh” as to no smoking or no music. It was a nice ride as most people didn’t talk on the phone or to each other. It took approximately 2-1/2 hours because along the way the driver stopped to let passengers out and pick up new passengers. Also, we were dodging pigs, cows and horses all while we were doing 60 mph.  The end of the line in Kutaisi is a McDonalds. The food was great, real “ice” in a drink. All the familiar items were available. The place was packed as it was a Sunday and lots of families and there was also a party room (I guess a birthday). There was face painting, balloons, rids running around. It was just like here in the States. Also, what great toilets! This is always a conversation here in Georgia about where the good toilets are. The staff was dressed like airline stewardess. The place was brand new and spotless. Wi-Fi was also available, so it was a nice spot to just take a breath.

The next “Marsh” #3, we had to go behind the McDonalds to the “Marsh.”  As far as our eyes could see, nothing but “Marsh’s” waiting for passengers.  Again, all the signage was in Georgia and all were different. From brand new to vehicles that looked like the “Marsh” In my village.  You discuss price, but most people know that its 5 GEL from Kutaisi to Ozurgeti.  Again, only a two lane highway exists; but really, you cannot call it a highway. The road conditions are not that bad (except for the livestock on the highways), but the traffic was fierce. Lots of Large tractor trailers; large sightseeing buses; pickup trucks; of course cars and really anything that moves is on the road. Our driver spent a great deal of time trying to pass the slower big vehicles on the road. Another bout of “taking your heart in your mouth” watching another car heading right into you and at the last minute our driver swerves in our correct lane. Another 2-1/2 hours to Ozurgeti and we finally meet up with our host G12 volunteer.  We went to a café to have a beer and then waited for the village of Bakhvi’s “Marsh” to arrive. This vehicle is in the same condition as the “Marsh” in my village, maybe even a tad worse. I cannot imagine what it feels or smells like during the summer. There are so many people jammed in. In any event, another 20 minute or so ride and we finally arrive in Bakhvi. All totaled, including rest stops and pickup and drop-off , it took almost (7) hours.

I did see a lot of the country during this time. The country side is so green and lush. The areas along the road have houses and buildings that look like they have been in a war.  Houses that are no more than empty shells are scattered throughout. Buildings that seem to have been started and then left abandoned. Also, bridges and highways that appear to have been started but not finished. Along the road are little huts that sell things, like bread. On our way home one passenger spoke to the driver and all of a sudden he pulled over to the side. The woman in our car poked her head out the window and ordered bread from the woman in the hut. Other people in the van also started buying stuff. It was very funny watching this unfold.

The village of Bakhvi was not much to look at. The roads were all paved, unlike the roads in my village. They are putting in gas lines and big rig equipment is digging on the sides of the road to place the pipes in the village. It sure does make a mess, but at least the gas line will be out of the way. The house we stayed in was lovely and so big. They had two bathrooms; however, the toilets didn’t flush. You had to throw a bucket of water in the toilet after you were finished. They did have hot water, so showering was nice. The host mother provided all our meals, and the Peace Corps provided her a stipend. I had a nice private room; however, the family also had a couple of roosters.  These roosters, at 4:00am, started their crowing. At first I thought it was a joke, but when a rooster is crowing underneath your window for hours and hours, well you know it is not a joke. There were two of them, so at times it was in stereo. I’ve heard roosters in my village, but only from a distance. This was up close and personal. It was like chalk on a blackboard and children crying at the same time and even that description could not do it justice. I was trying to figure out what I had in my book bag that I could make a slingshot out of; but thought that might be a bad idea.  I never thought I would say this but I was praying for the alarm clock to go off. I was in a strange house and didn’t know what to do to get away from the rooster. It seems the family is so familiar with the sound it does not bother them.  Needless to say, getting up at 4am for two days in a row, I was not at my best. Factor in the stress of all that travel – well, I was not a happy camper.

The school that we visited was again, like everything else, very old.  It had an outhouse behind the school that had a separate outhouse facility for teachers. That door was painted pink. Most of the teachers are women, only four men out of 26 (I think).  The class rooms were very large. I bet the ceilings were 20 feet high (or higher). The English classroom is called a “Cabinet.” Not sure why, other than it is a British term. Peace Corps has had a volunteer at this school since 2001, so lots of improvements have been made in the English room. They do have internet connections and computers (in some of the classroom); but, they also have a big hole in the roof. I cannot image what happens when it rains or snows. They have a “pechi” the small wood stove that is supposed to be used in winter; however, with a room that large and the high ceilings, the teachers never use it because it is more trouble than it is worth. I am getting very nervous about trying to teach under conditions of  such cold. The windows and doors are all new; however, the windows don’t close properly and the doors don’t fit well, so they have a hard time openings and closing the door. These windows and doors still have the NEW tape on them; I am stunned at the poor quality of workmanship. I don’t think these windows will keep the draft out. Also, the school often removes the handle so you cannot open and close the window. In this way the students cannot play with the windows; however, I would be concerned about exiting the school in an emergency; as you would need to break the window to get out.

Just like in other Georgian Schools, we heard many of the same problems here in Bkhavi. Students go to school but they don’t go to class or they arrive late after the class. We heard a report about an 8^th grader coming to school drunk. Stories about young children smoking and an 8^th grader actually drove to school in a car. Children have recess in the school. Not sure why, as there is so much open ground around the school. It is a little un-nerving seeing so many children running through the halls and up and down steps. A couple of boys were rolling a table top that almost hit a teacher. No one seems to stop the kids; it is like a free-for-all. We met the Director of the school who loves the Peace Corps. She still talks with former volunteers on Facebook and other sites like it. We had coffee and spoke in our broken Georgian of who we were and where we were from. Some of the children brought us flowers that they picked outside in the yard.

The trip was OK. It left me exhausted. I was able; however, to overcome my fear of the “Marshrutkas” for one thing. I was also able to get a pair of shower shoes at the bazaar and a notebook for my vocabulary. I was so thankful when I came home to Osiauri that there were no roosters near my home. We begin teaching again on Thursday because the Ministry of Education opened the schools up this past Monday. School ends in Georgia on June 13^th, so we are scheduled to teach from now until then.  Lots more to talk about but maybe you are tired of being on a virtual “Marshrutkas” reading my blog. 

Best, Catherine, G14

Note: The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Hello Everyone -

I have returned from the WEST and it was a 

successful journey. I wanted to share some 

photographs. More on my travels in the next

day or so but for now see the link below. I am in

the first two photographs. They were taken as we

left orientation and we were heading to meet our

host parents on May 3rd. I didn't go on 

The Borjomi trip.  All the best, Catherine, G14

Here is the link to the group photos we took in a restaurant after Orientation in Bazaleti and during Borjomi Hiking trip.

Blog, May 31^st, 2014

Hello My Faithful Readers….

Here we are on the last day of May, 2014. I have completed (1) month, so only (26) to go. I still cannot get my head around that. Sometimes it feels like I am here living in Georgia and at other times I think that I will be leaving for America soon (vacation over, time to go!). I am getting into a routine so the weeks seem to be moving a little faster; however, some days feel like way more than 24-hours. It finally stopped raining, so my friend “mud” has gone into hiding; but then, “mud” has a friend and he is called “dust”.  However, I will gladly take “dust” over “mud.”  J I’ll let you know otherwise, for sure.

I must tell you, and I do say this tongue and cheek; but possibly a little serious, if left here in Georgia to order or buy food for myself, I am very clear that I will starve to death!  We did an exercise today in class and I played a customer who was ordering food. Well, it was not pretty…the poor waiter (my classmate) had no idea as to what I wanted.  We were laughing so hard, as I think I actually ordered a cow or possibly soup with hair at one point. Not a clue. I’ve learned the phrase below and use it frequently. Actually I think this may be my new name. Hello, I am “Excuse me/sorry” J

Excuse me/Sorry

ბოდიში (bodishi)

Everyone is extremely supportive and forgiving around the language. We all stumble and try to get our mouth around words that have so many consonant. I am still so far behind but still giving it my best efforts. Working with my language coach and scheduling extra sessions. I truly don’t know when we can make the time. As it stands now most days are 12+ hours long; but, let’s see what we can do as without sufficient language it may limit my placement opportunities. I am going to stop requesting in my weekly evaluations to the Peace Corps my frustration and overall dismay around the speed of language delivery. It seems that really nothing (other than private tutoring can be accommodated) and I am just going to have to find ways around how the language is delivered, as it does not work for older volunteers.

We had our interviews yesterday as to where we will be placed for our permanent two year assignments. I think we will be advised on June 19^th.  Our team is (57) strong, so I know it will be a major accomplishment to match locations with the needs and requests of all (57) of us. In keeping with my NEW way of being (that is, needy and high maintenance), I made my requests. One being, that I didn’t want to be placed in a really remote area. Another is having indoor facilities. With that said, as much as both are important I hesitate to think what opportunities I would be cutting off by limiting myself. Well, it remains to be seen how it will all pan out. We all must live with a host family for the first (3) months after permanent placement, but then after that we can (if available) find locations where we can live alone (if that is what we want). I’ve been reading about the IDP population “Internally Displaced Persons.”  It has been reported that there are approximately 300,000 people living in Georgia with IDP status. I won’t be placed in these areas; however, I have been reading and expressed interest in possibly doing a project or so in the areas. More to come on this topic.

Back to life as it is presently - My host family has the television on from the moment they get up until everyone goes to bed. The tv is in the main living area, which also includes the dining room table. I have spoken about the amount of commercials in previous blogs; however, what I’ve begun to notice is the amount of “American type” tv shows there are. For example, they have programming - X-factor; Cartoon Network; bloopers; Dancing with the Stars and morning programs like Good Morning America. Charlie Chaplin is big here, no idea why.  Although I cannot hear the TV in my room; when I am with the family I am just amazed at how transfixed everyone is to the tv. I don’t have television in my home in the State and have not had television for 15+ years; so for me, it is very intrusive. However, my host family does not feel that way. I am thinking that possibly it may be their window to the world as they have many channels and options for just about every type of entertainment and news.  I wondered if it was a good thing that American television has found its way to Osiauri? 

We had a written test yesterday on the topics of Peace Corps Health Policies and also Peace Corps Safety and Security policies. It was an hour long test that gauged how much we have been paying attention to all the meetings and training sessions we have been sitting in on since we arrived in late April, 2014. I was a little surprised although we were warned that testing would be part of the program. We also had a gender split sessions to discuss issues that one may or may not want to discuss in mixed company.  The Peace Corps also presented sessions on HIV, sexual assault and condoms. These life realities were handled in such a sensitive way.  They were very hard topics to discuss, but necessary.

On another note, I wanted to talk about the two (2) lane highway that we drive to get from Osiauri to Khashuri for meetings.  This road reminds me of traveling in India. The two lane highway ultimately becomes a three lane and often a four lane highway at times. It takes our breath away (at some point gasping) at how close another car is before we or it moves out of the way. The drivers are experience at driving in Georgia, so I don’t have any fear we will crash; however, it is a rollercoaster ride watching this unfold. Another transportation issue is the trains that run through the village. The railroad tracks are behind the house that I am living in and at times I can feel the house shake as the trains go by. Also, very interesting is the train whistle. Not all the time, but sometimes, the whistle sounds like the whistle from documentaries and movies of trains moving through Nazi occupied Europe. The first time I heard it I was taken back and then I heard it a few more times. It is a distinct sound but it does not conjure good memories and thoughts.

Tea bags are never used only once. There are special little cups provided so that once you have your tea you can place your tea bag in the cup for someone else to use, or get more hot water and use it again. I didn’t pick up on this immediately so I was using a tea bag and then throwing it away. The family didn’t say anything, but now we all share tea bags (it’s the more than one dunk rule).  I have been buying tea; and I am surprised that my coffee addiction has been replaced with tea. I had a Starbucks instant coffee last weekend (I brought it from home) and it was OK. I am surprised at how quickly my taste changed.

I miss ice as no one in the village, or at least anyone families I’ve associated with have ice.  Also, it is made with tap water, so no drinking the water. I think I ate lung and heart this week. One of the families that host a volunteer lives with is a butcher and he brings lots of meat and organs home. No one said anything until after we had eaten, so if I did eat it I didn’t think it was that bad?  I’ve also noticed that everyone and I mean everyone involved with the PC (including us trainees) is on time. I think this is the first time in my life that has happened. We are informed to be at a certain place at a certain time, and Wow, every time – all show up.  The rose bushes are coming into bloom in the garden of my host family.  There are no vacuum cleaners here (at least not in the house that I live in). Today, Saturday, is a day off so I am doing catch up; laundry, etc, and decided (since it has been a month) to sweep my room. The family laid some carpet pieces around my bed and I almost wished that they didn’t. I would rather sweep a floor area than carpet, but I will do my best with it. I’ve noticed that the dogs eat a LOT of bread. Not being a dog person I don’t know if this is usual (or not?). There is no dog food here in the village. I do see water placed out for the dog as well as milk, but all the bread? The dog cries for food. Again, I am not sure if this is usual or not? Once the dog cries then the food (bread) is taken out. I also noticed that the majority of the dogs I’ve seen in the village, I bet 90+%, all have some type of limp. I wonder if that is because of diet or possibly, as cars don’t watch out for people let alone dogs, maybe most have been hit of side-swiped at some point. They all seem to function well, but the limp is noticeable.

I received an email yesterday inviting me to submit my blog address for a Peace Corps contest. This is the 3^rd year for this type of event. I am sure it was a blanket email, but since I met all the criteria I submitted my blog address.  I know that the Peace Corps does monitor all blogs so I had to give my address almost as soon as I arrived in-country.  I will keep you posted.

I feel like I am writing a lot today. Maybe it’s the thought that I will be away from my blog for three days. I am sitting here listening to the cows moooooing. I will see if an opportunity presents itself, or I make one, to go and see the cows in their “cow house.” Today is Saturday and I have to remind myself of that. Most days I have no idea as to what day it is. Back in the States, as a retiree, every day felt like Saturday and it was a GOOD feeling. Here in Georgia I could not tell you what it feels like. 

One more point, that I know I will talk about on-goingly throughout the next (26) months, is my relationship with food.  I’ve written in previous blogs that I am not that thrilled with the food here in Georgia and as a result I eat very little and I know I have lost weight (and all without Weight Watchers J). In any event, the interesting thing is that I am not that hungry (as I was hungry all the time in the states) and don’t think about food that much. Well, during times of high frustration and “melt downs” I have wanted to resort to make myself feel better with my friend “food” – specifically, in this instance, “crumb cake.” Well, can’t do that anymore.  I am going to have to figure out ways, other than food, to deflect or deal with the emotions and feelings of frustration, sadness and the multitude of other emotions and feelings that I am sure will arise during my time here in Georgia. No more, at least for a little while, “Little Pete’s” (the restaurant in my building) and all the hundreds of great food places in Philadelphia. This is something I didn’t expect. This will require some thought, but it is not a bad thing. 

Alright, I’ll close for now. I hope to be able to get my hair cut in Bakhvi while I am on my trip out WEST (in Georgia).

All the Best, Catherine, G14

Note:  The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Blog, May 27^th, 2014

Hello – I forgot to mention in my last blog one of the GREAT moments of last weekend; and that was making Khachapuri. We were told a story about this food and it goes like this:

Khachapuri (Georgian: ხაჭაპური)

A village was preparing for the visit of a king and the village was so poor they didn’t know what to feed the King. So it was decided to offer bread and cheese and to combine the two ingredients.  So, they baked bread with cheese inside and the rest is history.  I don’t think I’ve been at any table that has not served Khachapuri. I cannot imagine the calories. In any event, our language coach arranged for us to have lunch at one of the homes in the village and they were prepared to let us make our own Khachapuri. The dough was already made (in one bowl) and the cheese (already prepared in another bowl). With flour and cameras ready, we took the dough and flattened it out – using our fingers and wrist (it seemed). After that, we placed the cheese in the middle and tied the dough together sort of like a dumpling. We then twisted it around and cut off the excess dough and then flattened it out again. Make a hole in the middle to let the air out, and then into the oven or into the frying pan. Once done, butter was smothered onto the top which gave it a shiney coat. Call in the cardiologist, please  J.  I usually don’t eat it as I don’t really care the kind of cheese that is used, but I did try mine since I made it. It was delicious (just had a little bite). It was a lot of fun and a pleasant break from language training.  I hope to have pictures and will send with the blog.

I want to give some news about the upcoming weekend, as I will be traveling to Balhvi in the Guria Region (going out west in Georgia).  So, the route is to get from Osiauri to Khashuri and take the “marshutka” to Kutaisi. It’s a two hour ride once I get to Khashuri until I arrive in Kutaisi. Once in Kutaisi I should get off at the end of the line, which actually stops as a McDonalds (if you can believe it). I am told that they have wonderful bathrooms at the McDonalds J. At that point, I need to go behind the McDonalds and get another “marshutka” to Ozurgeti, which is the closest big town (really) to Balhvi. This leg should also take about two hours. I am told the first 40 minutes is a flat ride; however, after that we go into the mountains and that it is a windy road. Some people have trouble with it as they get car sick. Well, I cannot wait for that (smiles). I’ve been on windy roads, so I am hoping that I am not in the car sick category or I am not seated next to someone who is! In any event, it should be an adventure. The house that I am staying in however, has indoor plumbing – Yeah!  I’m told they have (2) bathrooms indoor, so this should be a treat. I am not going to take my computer, so I won’t be able to blog until I get back home to Osiauri, but I plan to take notes and absorb every minute of the experience. I will be with two other volunteers and another volunteer, who actually lives in the village, will be our host and our guide. We will be shadowing her during her teaching and integrating into the community as best that we can in a couple of days. I was not looking forward to this, but maybe now I am feeling differently about it. I am still trying to find out what the mountain range is called. I should be able to blog about it when I get back. Onward and Upward!

It is fun walking through the village as the children, who know us from teaching or co-teaching their classes, call out to us in English. We, the volunteers, on the other hand call back to them in Georgian.  They run up to us or ride behind us on their bikes calling out “how are you?” and “I am good.” They are very proud of their English and we are proud of the little bit of Georgian that we can speak. I am in awe of the children riding bikes as I can barely walk with the rocks and stone on the dirt road; however, I am not complaining as the “dry” rocks, stones and dirt is a welcomed changed from my friend “mud” J.

We just heard that the Ministry of Education is going to close the schools again this week for the entire country. There was no explanation given, but grades 1-6 won’t have school again. The children miss so much school time, at least it seems that way to me. That also means my teaching schedule has once again been changed. I don’t know how the PC is going to make up the teaching time; but, that remains to be seen. I am really relieved that the schools were cancelled from a selfish point of view. I am not that thrilled with classroom teaching. Maybe it is because I teach a variety of grades and really don’t have a change to dig into the materials or get to know the children. I’m told it won’t be this way when I have my permanent assignment. I will have assigned grades and it will be on a consistent basis; so, the jumping around will stop. Also, I will be working with probably one Georgian English Teacher so we can develop lesson plans. As it stands now planning is done mostly the day before or the morning of, so it just adds more stress to insure that the classes are successful. Teachers are paid by the hour, so when the schools are closed they don’t get paid. I don’t believe they have a teachers union here.

Eating in the classroom is a BIG no-no here in Georgia. You can drink and have water on your desk, but there is absolutely no eating during class time. I am thinking about how this would go over in the US. I’ve been in classrooms that have students eating a full meal in addition to taking notes. It seems that some students even cook the food (of course not true), but what they bring to eat is often not just a sandwich. I like this policy of not eating during class; however, during the breaks you can eat but people usually leave the classroom to do it.

I noticed another throw back from my early, early days in South Philadelphia. I was walking down the road recently and heard a car horn, beep, beep, beep. I didn’t think anything of it but then I heard it again.  I stopped to look around and a few minutes later the mom or grand mom with the children came running out of the house. I then noticed that the father was sitting in the car and he was blowing the horn. This reminded me of the same kinds of situation with my parents. My mother would be running around trying to get the kids ready to leave the house, as well as getting the house ready (lock the door, etc.) while dad was in the car waiting. After awhile he would also blow the horn. My mother always complained, but it never changed. When I spoke to the other volunteers about it they are concurred that yes, they had seen this also. I thought it might be an Eastern European thing, but every felt it was more a MAN thing than anything else.

Fish for breakfast this morning, oh my. Their cold, dead eyes were looking at me. Although I have had fish for breakfast, I could not eat anything that early that was looking at me. My water filter system is leaking (boo). I need to carry that into Khashuri and then carry a new one home. There is a saying here “SOMA” and although the letters don’t match the feelings do…it goes “suck it up and move on”. There is no use complaining, things are as they are and this is life now, so SOMA. I was able to get some peanuts today, what a treat. I am having this craving for “crumb cake.”  It seems that other volunteers are craving stuff like that also. They have ice cream here (really cheap) but they only have it in the summer months. My cluster has actually bought out the ice cream supply of one of the smaller stores.

Ok, faithful readers…I must tell you that doing this blog keeps me going. All is well, Catherine, G14

Note:  The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Blog, May 25^th, 2014

Hello! It is Sunday here is Osiauri and it is raining (again!).  It has rained a LOT since I arrive here. I must ask someone if this is usual or not. I love the rain because as most of my friends know “I think sunny days are WAY over-rated” but here in the village rain means MUD (and MUD and I have not come to terms yet).  Hopefully, the rain will dry up before I have to walk to school tomorrow. (Exciting stuff, Huh?

I found out what my Babo does when she comes back and forth with the big pots. She milks the cows and takes the milk into the kitchen. I was excited about this, I just go down to Klein’s (the store in my building) to buy milk and Babo goes to the barn for milk from the source. My host family just looks at me, as they just take this activity as normal fare. (I must get into the cow house) - HA. Even though the family has an automatic washer, my Babo washes clothes by hand in a tub. She sits on a little footstool and washes by hand.  There is no dryer, really didn’t expect one. All the clothes are hung out to dry on the 2^nd floor. One of the volunteers made a mistake and went to wash her hands in the kitchen sink. That is a no-no here. No washing of hands or brushing of teeth allowed in the kitchen. I wonder why that is?  Also, hangers are in short supply. My host family gave me (2) hangers when I arrived and I brought a couple with me also. I am told that is a big purchase item when we move into our permanent sites. At the moment, clothes are folded and placed on shelves.

All the windows in the house have curtains; however, they are very sheer. You can see right thru them. Even in the school the windows are covered with curtains but they are also so sheer. They (the curtains) do dress up the window, but I am sure they would not provide any draft protection or to keep the sun out. 

Another interesting thing is that people begin to eat when they sit down at the table for meals. No one waits, everyone just digs is. This is so different than in the United States. Usually, (in the US) it is not polite to begin eating until everyone is served. It is uncomfortable for me, and the other volunteers, to start eating before everyone is seated. I am getting used to it, and so are the others, but when in Georgia does as the Georgian’s do. 

I went to church this morning with my host sister. The church is a fairly new building and it is very beautiful. I asked what time church begins and end and my host sister said it begins at 9am and finishes at 12noon. Yipes, and there are no seat (really to speak of). You stand the entire time. Of course, everyone operates on Georgian time so we didn’t arrive until around 9:15am and lots of people came in after us. Even the priest (I think he is called that) didn’t come into the space where we were until around 9:30am. Women must wear skirts or dresses and also something on the head is required. If you don’t have either, in the back of the church is an assortment of head coverings and large scarfs to wrap around so that it appears that you have a skirt on. The majority of the people were women. I only counted two men and they came in with their mothers (I would assume). I asked “where were all the men” and was told that they were working. Well, maybe in past years that may have been so, but lots of men are at the Birzha.  I didn’t stay for the entire service as I was going to meet up with my language coach for some private instruction. The women blessed themselves from “right to left” instead of the “left to right” that I am used to in the catholic tradition. They blessed themselves countless numbers of times. There were women in the loft or balcony chanting or singing. I could distinguish some words but not many. People were lighting candles and giving coins for a book (I think they may have paid to use them). The priest has a full, long beard. He came out and walked around the congregation with burning incense.  The women turned me around so that my back was to the priest and then when his back was to us we were allowed to turn around. The altar was behind closed doors in the middle of a dividing wall in front of us.  The doors were opened briefly so that we could see the candles burning and the altar, but then closed after a few minutes. The church is so small, I bet maybe you could fit 50 people (if that). There was a little edge around the walls that people could sit on, but not comfortably as it was a very short ledge (and close to the floor). Many of the older women took turns sitting down. I think people go in and out during the three hour service, so possibly I will go again to see what happens as the services continues for the full three hours.

I’ve been teaching for the past week with a Georgian teacher and/or fellow volunteers. We don’t have much time to prepare and we do take guidance from the Georgian Teacher, as she can advise what aspect of the curriculum to focus on.  I found it interesting that grades have very little to do with advancement.  There is a lot of pressure placed on the teachers about grading. Parents have a lot of clout or impact on the grade that their child receives.  Grades are not a motivator. I had one teacher say that many, many years after the fact a parent still won’t talk to her because of a grade that she gave her child.  Giving the student recognition, by way of stickers, or certificates or public recognition is the best motivator. Also, physical touch is also accepted in the Georgian Schools. This is unheard of in the US; however, in Georgia teachers pat children on the head or on the back; hug and kiss them or just generally all around be affectionate with them. I was observing this and thinking how different this is.

Also, not in all cases or classrooms, but it seems that the children who get the most attention or help are the students who are doing the best. In our short time in the school we have (the volunteers) been trying to involve the students who would rather just sit back; however, it always seems that the best and brightest students are the ones chosen to participate in some way in the classroom. We wondered about that and one though (and who knows if this is accurate) but not every child goes to the University from the village. Some children need to stay behind to continue living and working in the village; so, the students who have the best shot at attaining University status are the students that are given the most opportunity in class. Again, who knows if this is accurate, but since we all (my cluster of 6 volunteers) all noticed the divide on who gets the attention we thought maybe this was one possible explanation. One final thought, but I am sure I will speak of this again, is the attendance policy. The fact is, there is no attendance policy. Some teachers take role and others do not. Children come to class or not and there is no finding out why. It is all very casual.

Ok, my faithful readers. All is well. I had a shower yesterday and that is a good thing (smiles). Also a banana and also an orange! Yipee (Ah, it does not take much to keep us happy).

Best, Catherine, G14

Note:  The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Blog, May 24^th, 2014

I believe this is Memorial Day weekend?  Really, I almost missed Memorial Day the same way I missed Mother’s Day. Monday will make (1) month into the adventure. Also, Sunday is the 14^th anniversary of becoming Catherine Lawrence. It was May 26^th, 2000 when I received my notice from the courts that my legal name change was approved. I do consider it a birthday or sorts, like a creative birthday as I created my name “Lawrence” using the authors T.E. and D.H. Lawrence as sources. It is also a holiday here in Georgia. I cannot find the specific information on the Holiday, but I think “Independence Day”. If I find my book I will write about it, if not I am sure if you google it information will come up.

 Lots to share! The First thing is that I will be traveling within the country on June 1^st through 4^th, 2014.  The program requires that trainees “me” shadow current volunteers to see what their days are like and we get to do it “up close and personal.” I will be traveling with one or maybe two other volunteers to the

 “Guria Region” of the country to a village called “Bakhvi”.  We will be living with the G12 volunteer and her host family during the time; however, we have to get to the location on our own. I am sure we will have help from the PC to figure out how to do it. So, this week, in addition to everything else, we need to make travel arrangements and also figure out what to take. I have not done research on the area, but it is in the west (heading toward the Black Sea). Maybe it is about 3-1/2 or 4 hours from my current location. Population is about 3,000 and it is 330KM from Tbilisi. I will be working with other English teachers in their public school. There are 153 students in the school. I won’t be teaching, only observing.

 Honestly, I am not looking forward to this. I was hoping it would be someplace closer and possibly not a village. I am not at all sure that village life is for me. I am a “city gal” and that is what I was hoping for; but, I will take the experience and look to see what is available for me to discover. Also, as much as I love to travel (and plan to travel in the region) at the moment I am overwhelmed with what is currently on my plate. I thought I would have a little more time to settle before traveling within the country. This will be my last free Sunday, as next week I will be in Bakhvi and the next Sunday I will be in (Tbilisi, I think?). It’s a cultural trip and I heard a rumor its Tbilisi. Be flexible is what the PC says, so that is what I will be. J I treasure my free Sundays as I have a chance to catch my breath, wash cloths, language homework and do my favorite thing, my blog.

We also received our questionnaire and appointment date so that permanent site placements can be made. We each meet with a site placement coordinator and talk about what, if any, preferences we would have (where) to spend the next two years. They try to match our skills with the needs of the community and the interview allows the PC to see (based on their experience) what would be the best fit for both.  I don’t think at this point I could make an informed decision. I know so little about the country and even if I knew certain areas, how would that knowledge translate into the experience of living there? I have no idea. Of course, they want to know what skills and experiences we have to offer. In addition, they want to know what types of projects and activities we would be interested in, because you don’t have just one job in the PC. Also, they want to know about what our concerns are about the Education Assignment and anything else that is of concern. There are no safe bets that we will be assigned to any location that would support our specific requests; however, the more they knew the better it is to place into situations that may be able to accommodate some, or even all of our requests.

I know I would like to work in the development sector. The PC talks about another section that works with Displaced People and that seems interesting. Creative problem solving skills are required, and I think I would qualify; but I need more information. Also, my concern would be the language – but, I figure I am just going to request everything that makes sense to me and see where the ball drops.

And speaking of language training I had my second melt down this week (and it was a beauty). After four weeks of feeling bad about not being able to keep up with the speed of the language instruction, well I just broke down. I think I scared my instructor, as I cried almost the entire class. I know I can handle the language, but not at the speed it is being presented. So much information is just overwhelming (not to mention the gazillon (new word) things we are all dealing with.  I have requested, requested, pleaded, asked, etc., etc. but nothing changed. I have held it together and tried (and I am still trying) to do my best, but as an older volunteer it is impossible to assimilate and comprehend the way the language training is organized and presented. Saying a word, once or twice, does not work for me. Also, the letters are written so little I need a magnifying glass to make distinctions. I hope what I listed below comes through. Gosh, I have never felt so high maintenance and/or needy in my life. On top of all this, the school turned off the electricity on Thursday, so we had no lights for Friday and Saturday’s class.  We did have light from the window, but it was even harder to see those little letters. I don’t have any hope that the structure will change, but I don’t know how much longer I can sit in these language classes feeling so bad. I am told that it won’t be like this after PST and that is what I am holding onto. I will have more time, I am told, so I can get a tutor and slow down the process. I felt so much better after the “crying class” (as I now refer to it). It was sort of a line in the sand; in that, I am not going to buy into the unreasonableness of the language schedule. I just could not hold my feeling in any longer. The frustration, without resolve, just bubbled out. I can do hard and hardship, I’ve done both. But, unreasonableness/unrealistic are different stories.

Let me close on a lighter note. I noticed the lack of pollution here in Osiauri. I was walking and was amazed at how clear the sky was, how fresh the air was. No hint of smog. Coming here, I was worried or concerned about this as I was told Georgia was a “smoking” country; in that, everyone smoked. Although my host father does smoke, he smokes so infrequently and when he does he smokes a lot outside. This has been a welcomed surprise for me as I didn’t expect it. Hopefully the summer months are will soon be upon us will continue with the clean air. Maybe it’s the mountains that are so close by; but in any event, I like this part of village life.

My Best to call my faithful readers, Catherine, G14

Hello, გამარჯობა (gamarjoba)