Blog, February 8^th, 2015

Hello, My Faithful Readers

I have added three photographs at the end. The first is a box of Dunkin Donuts that I purchased here in Tbilisi (you will read more about this in the blog). The second is me outside the hotel in Istanbul and before my acrobatic act and the hurt rib. The third is a photo of some of the teachers that I work with in Sagarejo. 

I have listed the link to my recent article (the 4^th in the series) written and published in OpEdNews (below link) about my “rib” experience in Istanbul.

 http://www.opednews.com/author/author500312.html

I’ve been recovering from my linear fracture of my 9^th rib. I have been off duty (medical) since January 15^th. As the 15^th was the first day back from holiday break. The doctors had a couple of concerns as my rib was healing. The first was that I should NOT carry anything. As I usually carry books and other items when I spend the day in school, it was not wise to attend. The second reason is that the doctors didn’t want me to catch a cold being in the school. Because the school has limited heat, they felt that cold rooms would not be helpful to a healing rib. In addition, I wanted to be careful not to catch a cold as coughing would not be helpful to healing the rib. So, I’ve had a wonderful rest. I have been at home with my host family.

I will be x-rayed anywhere from 4-6 week after the event (which was January 7^th), so probably around mid to the end of February for final medical clearance. In the meantime, I can go back to teaching if I am feeling better (and I do). I will take it easy and see how it goes. If I feel that I am pushing it then can adjust as I go along. I know I will regret saying this but I am getting a little “what do I do with myself” being a home for such a long period of time. I have been reading and resting and also working on my Georgian.  It has been wonderful. I’ve heard that the children in the school keep asking for me. That is so sweet of them.

Last November I requested books from an organization in Darien, CT. What a great organization. As a Peace Corps Volunteer I had to provide information as to the type of books and grade levels I was targeting. When approved my school would receive twenty-five pounds of books. Well, last week the books arrived. You would have thought it was Christmas here in Sagarejo. The teachers could not wait to open the box. All kinds of materials like National Geographic magazines for children, fiction, science book, etc. They all looked brand new. The teachers were “oozing and aaahhing” and pulling the books from the box. Now most of the teachers cannot read English; however, they were excited none-the-less.  Here is the link in the event that you want to check them out!

http://www.darienbookaid.org/

Soup here in Georgia is a big staple of the diet. My host mother makes a couple of different kinds of soup. For example, red beet soup or borscht; chicken soup and some kind of soup that I have no clue about. They are all good; but, they are very thin. Most have potatoes, carrots and some kind of parsley. A few have noodles but not in abundance. Sometimes they are somewhat flavorful and at other times it tastes like flavored water. I like the potatoes and carrots but a bowl of soup may contain a half a potato and maybe one quarter of a carrot stick. I don’t know why they don’t jam pack the soup with vegetables. I have given my host family some of the Lipton soup mixes to add into the broth; but, it never makes it into the soup. Oh, well – the soup is hot and I do get some potatoes. I understand from other PVC’s that this is the way other families also make their soups. Maybe it’s a practice from back in the day when vegetables were not abundant.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borscht

Another concern about food has been resolved now that winter is here. I am concerned that left over food is not refrigerated. This is especially worrisome during the summer; however, in winter (since the kitchen and the storage rooms are not heated) this is not now an issue. The kitchen and storage room are probably colder than a refrigerator. They have the remains of the pig , Wilber (remember from Christmas) hanging on hooks from the ceiling. I don’t know how they preserve the food; but, I am thinking they use salt. The reason being is that I had a piece of pork recently that was so salty that I felt I was eating a “salt lick.” I don’t want to waste food; but, I just could not eat it. The family does not say anything when I leave food on my plate; but, eating salt is just something I cannot do.

Which leads me to wonder why the Georgian people cannot see the connection between eating so much salt (and sugar) with their blood pressure? I have written about this previous as most households (and also the teacher’s room in school) have a blood pressure cuff and stethoscope. Routinely they take each their own BP or they take the BP of another teacher. I think I want to have my BP taken by the Peace Corps doctors at some point.

I just know that you all want to know what is happening with my hair!

Well, I won’t keep you in suspense because I’ve made a decision J. I am letting my hair grow. Now, you must understand that I have not have LONG hair for maybe forty (yes, that is 40 years). My hair has always been short. So, maybe I want to fit in better as the majority of women have long hair here in Georgia (NOT REALLY); or maybe it’s the 5Gel haircut (that translates to maybe $2.50 USD). The hair cut is nice when it is first done; however, when it is growing in – well, it is terrible. In any event, I have decided to see how I feel and look with long hair. Now, I know I will never get it as long as most of the women here; but, for the first time in decades I can feel hair on my neck. When I look in the mirror I sometimes don’t recognize the person looking back at me. My hair, coupled with the weight loss (now at a total of 65 pounds); well, it is disconcerting! I was able to get a couple of pair of pants at the FREE BOX at the Peace Corps Office – so that is a good thing.

So, getting back to the saga of my hair! I will continue to let it grow until I am sure it will get on my nerves. Of course now that it is winter it feels good to have hair; however, we shall see what happens with the 90’sF and 100’sF degree heat comes along.

We are going to attend another training program at the end of February. This training is PDM (Project Design and Management). I will be attending with one of my counter-parts; that is, one of the English teachers that I work with on a daily basis. We will be able to find ways to fund project through grants and also become knowledgeable in how to write the grants. Goal setting and brainstorming as to how best to use any money that we would obtain is on the agenda. This sound like a lot of fun!

We will also be doing this at a hotel – yippee!!! We make camp (so-to-speak) at the Ambassador Hotel in the village of Kachreti. We will be there for four nights. We will have LOTS of showers, real bathrooms, FOOD (3-meals a day) and heat. We cannot wait. I understand that they also have a snack bar….Heaven!!!! I’ve listed the below link in case you want to check it out! More detail to come once I return.

http://www.kachreti.ambasadori.ge/en/

One of the English Teachers gifted me a book entitled’ The Knight in the Panther’s Skin.”  It is a very famous book by a very famous author – Shota Rustaveli. It is so old and so beautiful. I was so touched by the generosity of this teacher. It was translated from Georgian into English by Venera Urushadze. It is a poem that I hope to read; however, I don’t think it is going to be an easy read. I am not much for poetry (I don’t understand poetry); but, I must give this a chance. It is a hard-back covered book that has 1,582 stanza’s (I think they are called stanza’s). I will update you as I make my way through.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shota_Rustaveli

In early March 2015 I am going to be tested again as to my Georgian language level. I think that I will go up one level; however, I don’t think I am at the level that the PC requires. I must note that I have felt a shift in my language skills. I find that I do speak more Georgian now than I ever did. So much more makes sense and since I am speaking more I feel a little more confident in speaking. I am sure this will continue as time goes forward. I will let you know once my test is complete and what the outcome was.

I want to give you some of what I’ve discovered about the town that I am living in. Sagarejo, the settlement, was first mentioned in the written record in the 11^th century under the name of “Tvali”. This literally means “An Eye.” It acquired town status in 1962. According to the 2002 census, Sagarejo has a population of 12,600 and it is 36 miles (58K) east of the Georgian capital of Tbilisi. I will do more research, but for now that is what I know.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sagarejo

I have noticed over and over how late my host family goes to bed. Sometimes it is as late at 1:00am, as I can hear people talking below me (the pechi room is below my room) when I get up to go the bathroom. I do not know how they can function all day with so little sleep. I see in the classroom that so many students sleep during class time. Of course, I cannot know this but I think many families stay up as late as my family. It is very discouraging teaching to students who are sleeping. No one seems to think this is odd behavior. The teachers just let the children continue sleeping and then when the bell rings they go to their next class.

And speaking of FOOD that is not really good for you…. Dunkin Donuts has arrived in Georgia. Honestly, at times I don’t feel like I am living in Eastern Europe. On my way back from training at the Bazaliti Lake Hotel we stopped at one of the NEW Dunkin Donuts (there are now 2 stores here) for donuts and coffee. It was very strange for me to be a store that looks much like what exists in America! I was overwhelmed. I could not make a decision as to “what” kind of donut I wanted, so, I initially ordered coffee. Ah, as I remembered – it was delicious. I could have sat in the store and just drank coffee all day. I did finally get a donut. I thought it was filled with cream; however, it had a lemon filling. I was disappointed; but, it was still good. At the moment, they don’t have cream donuts (my favorite) – but, hopefully that will come with time. They do sell the pound package of coffee (hazelnut and vanilla); but, I don’t have a drip coffee maker so (at the moment) I have to pass on that.

At the back of the Dunkin Donuts Shop there is a WENDY’s!  Burgers and Donuts is the same building – yummy. I think maybe Georgia is importing all the bad eating habits of the good old USA; but then, it is all sooooo GOOD! 

https://www.facebook.com/dunkindonutsgeo

Water filter….I am always kind-of sick to my stomach when I see just how much sediment accumulates in my water filer. I clean the filter, usually every couple of weeks and yet, so much sediment falls to the bottom of the filter. I guess that is a good thing as since it is on the bottom of the filter than it is not in my water bottle; but, yuck! I often just buy bottled water to make sure that my system gets a dose of really filtered water (at least I hope so).

I often have terrible bouts of diarrhea and I wonder if it is the food, the water or maybe just my system not being used to all the changes. I had an experience recently (not for the faint of heart here, my faithful readers); however, in keeping with my wanting to write a “real” blog I must share this with you. Recently as I was getting ready to board the metro my stomach was giving me signals that I needed to find a toilet (I have stopped referring to it as a bathroom). In any event, I did find one outside the metro stop. Of course, it was a porcelain squat toilet but it was not that bad.  My problem with the squat toilet is that I just cannot squat low enough, so, the capturing process (if you know what I mean) does not all find its way into the porcelain (I can hear you groaning now!).  I tried my best with what I had to clean up; but, it was not great. I was embarrassed and the attendant was angry; but, what can I do. This is life for me in Georgia. It is not like finding a western toilet. I wonder if I am the only person having this difficulty. Even with the weight loss my body just won’t go that low….I apologize if this is way more information than you need – but, living life on a daily basis dictates experiences, I imagine,  we all have but no one talks about.

A memory that totally caught me by surprise was the appearance of a “Huckster” here in Sagarejo. I have not thought about this is many decades; but, hearing and seeing this unfold on the road here in Sagarejo has brought back so many memories. During my time here I’ve been hearing beeping/horn noises made by a car and also a man hollering some words in Georgian. I never gave it much thought, until one day as I was walking home on the mountain I saw the Huckster. He had the trunk of his car open and inside was lots of fruits and vegetables. He stopped many times along the road as people came out of their houses to buy items. This so reminded me of the same kind of scene growing up in South Philadelphia. We would hear the shouts of the Huckster and run out to the truck. We could buy all kinds of fruits and vegetables.  This all made a lot of sense as here in Sagarejo as well as growing up in South Philadelphia not many people had cars, so it was hard to get to the market to buy (and carry home) the items. So, if you can’t go to the mountain then the mountain comes to you. That is exactly what the huckster does. What a great memory to revisit again!

Huckster | Define Huckster at Dictionary.com

dictionary.reference.com/browse/huckster

a retailer of small articles, especially a peddler of fruits and vegetables; hawker.

I will close for now and write again at the end of February so I give you all the news from the hotel! Also, I read on the internet that Sagarejo is probably going to have some snow next week. I sure hope not; but then, it is February.

All the Best, My Faithful Readers,

Catherine Lawrence, G14

Peace Corps Volunteer – February 8^th, 2015

The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Blog, January 20^th, 2015

Hello, My Faithful Readers

I have included two photographs (embedded in the blog at some point). The first is my host grandmother, mother and sister and they are wearing the hats that I bought them while I was in Budapest. I also bought myself a hat but I think I was asleep when the photo was taken (Love the hat!). The second is ME in Vienna on New Years Eve. Since it was so cold most of  the photos outside have me in the same outfit (coat, scarf, gloves, hat)....not sexy, but very warm.

Here we are at almost the end of January. I am approaching the 9^th month anniversary of my arrival in Georgia and the beginning of my Peace Corps experience. That celebration will happen on January 26^th.

Christmas here in Georgia is still happening; but, it is almost over. My family still has the Christmas decorations up. There are Christmas commercials still happening on television. There is this one commercial that plays over and over and the tune is the first 30 seconds of the “Jingle Bell Rock.” It is driving me crazy. Santa still appears on television and the news programs still have decorated Christmas trees in the background when they broadcast the news.  When will this end? Christmas here in Georgia is celebrated on January 7^{th  -}  My family didn’t even put up the tree until the very end of December; so, I guess celebrating into the end of January is not that unusual.

The Georgian people also have a custom around New Years. Of course, January 1^st is the beginning of the New Year; however, they also celebrate something called “Old New Year.”  I don’t understand this holiday, so I’ve listed a link below if you want to read more. I’m told that the celebration is around, of course, family coming to visit and lots and lots of sweets for the table. The sweets mean that the New Year will be sweet for you. Lots of family did come to visit my host family and of course they stayed over as there was lots of drinking - wine and cha-cha. There were fireworks and guns being fired into the air. I just didn’t understand this custom and not much was said about it; so, I went to bed. Well, at 11:45pm they woke me up to come and celebrate the “Old New Year.”  This all happens on the 14^th day of the New Year.  Next year I will know better.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_New_Year

The day I returned from my Danube River Cruise, January 7^th, was Christmas Day. When I arrived home (around 9:00pm) my family was waiting for me and had dinner all prepared. It was very sweet of them to wait for me. I was texting them as I arrived at the airport so they would know when I would arrive. Well, hugs and kisses abound from everyone (even my host father) J. I know they missed me as I certainly missed them. We had dinner in the “Pechi room” – (it’s the one room that is heated). This was very special as we usually eat in the kitchen (which is not heated). The “pechi” room was all warm and cozy with the Christmas tree all lit up and lots of sweets and food that was prepared for the celebration already on the table.

There was lots of pork to eat as when I was away the pig went to meet his maker. During dinner I had to find out how the pig met his end and I was told that one of the cousins shot the pig in the head. That is the way the pig is killed and then there are many men around who butcher the pig. Now, I know I’ve eaten pork before but I never really gotten to know (up close and personal) the main course like I did with this pig.  The family brought out (cut up – thank goodness) the head of the pig. I tried not to see the remains of the pig’s face; but, they all dug in so fast to each take a piece that I didn’t have that much time to ponder what was in front of me. Of course, I declined to take a piece of the head of the pig. It is considered a delicacy here; highly valued. Not for me, thank you J

Orthodox Epiphany in Georgia – January 19^th, 2015

The traditional date for the feast is January 6. However, since 1970, the celebration is held in some countries on the Sunday after January 1.Eastern Churches following the Julian Calendar observe the Theophany feast on what for most countries is January 19^[9] because of the 13-day difference today between that calendar and the generally used Gregorian calendar.^[10]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epiphany_%28holiday%29

As a Christian I’ve only know the Epiphany celebrated on January 6^th. The reason is - that is when we took down all the Christmas decoration. The link above will provide lots of information on many different traditions if you would like to pursue.  All the schools are closed; however, I don’t see any other celebrations happening here on my mountain.  (I think this will mark the end of the Christmas season here in Georgia!)

The weather here has not been that bad (so far). It has been cold and there has been snow; however, it is not as bad as I thought it was going to be. However, I must remember that we are not through winter yet. There is still a lot of time before spring arrives, so I am not exhaling yet (as I feel like I’ve been holding my breath anticipating the stories that I’ve heard about winter). My room has a small space heat that if I put it close to my bed and I use my sleeping bag, my heavy blanket from my family, wear my sweatshirt/hoodie

and long underwear; neck scarf and hat – wheeee…..then it is ok to sleep (it better be as after I get all those clothes on to go to sleep I am exhausted J. During the day if it is sunny the sun warms my room – so it is ok.  Sometimes it feels warmer outside than it does inside; but, once I am under the covers it is so warm and toasty. I just don’t want to do anything – really I cannot do much of anything. Keeping warm is the priority.

One of the things that I’ve noticed is that I cannot spend too much time in the “pechi” room. This is the one room in the house that is heated and the family - they all sleep in this room.  Of course, there is a big heating system on the 2^nd floor (where all the bedrooms are); however, the family does not put the heater on – so, it’s the “pechi” room or my room to get warm.  In the “pechi” room the family has the television on at least 15-18 hours a day. The family does not go to bed until after mid-night and when there is no school usually no one gets up before noon time. So, at night when I go to get warm in the “pechi” room I am bombarded with what is on television. They watch Turkish Soap operas and some type of Middle Eastern Soap opera as well as an soap opera from India. Geezes, they are all the same..cry a little, kiss a little – over and over again. The one thing going for them is that the locations that the soap operas take place in are just beautiful. The family is just glued to the TV screen – most times you cannot hear a pin drop. Nobody moves a muscle until the commercial comes on. For myself, I want it quiet; but, that is not going to happen. I can truly appreciate that this is the kind of entertainment that gets the family through the dark days of winter. No one reads or plays games; they all just watch the tube. In addition to the soap operas they put the news on and so it goes back and forth between soap operas and news. At times the teenagers in the family will put on music videos.

The commercials keep repeating over and over. I think there are maybe five different commercials that they preview in-between the soap operas. I can play a part in the commercials; the dialogue, the jingles…it really drives me mad. So, I need to go to my room where it is kinda-a-quiet. My room is over the “pechi” room so I can still hear some of what is happening on the television and also hear the family as they talk in-between the opera.  At times the teenagers in the house are doing homework during all this. I just don’t know how they can concentrate as they are working and doing homework at the same time. I guess they are used to doing it. And then we must keep in mind that the “pechi” room is the warm room – so, if I want to be warm without all the layers of covers and clothes I need to live like the family does. I keep looking out my bedroom window so see if the BIG tree outside my window is showing any sign of life. Not yet, but I keep looking.

I had a treat recently as the family had on TLC (The Learning Channel) and a DISCOVERY program. Wow, what a treat that was. Of course it was in English; however, it was dubbed over in Georgian. The program featured was “How did they do that.” Programming on Monster trucks and cars, motorcycle racing – it was wonderful to watch. There was also a program on “Bacon.”  My mouth is still watering looking at all the ways that “BACON” can be used. I think it was filmed in St. Louis as I could see the Gateway to the West arch! I wonder why the family has never tuned into this channel before now?

Because it is usually not really warm in my room the clothes in my closet are cold. When I put something on I usually get the chills as the clothes are cold. I had an idea that works fairly well; and that is, I take the hair dryer and spend a minute or two warming up the clothes that I am going to put on. It does the trick!

I have some good news about my reading. For the first time in many, many months I am reading a book that is (what I call) a book of substance. Up until recently I have not really been able to concentrate on anything other than a Mary Higgins Clark or James Patterson. Now, don’t get me wrong they both write really well and I like their books; however, I’ve read so many of that type in my life that at times I think I could write one. So, at the moment I am reading “The Museum of Innocence” author, Orhan Pamuk. A friend shared this book with me as the back drop of the story takes place in Istanbul. So, that drew my attention. The book talks about many of the wonderful places in Istanbul that I am planning to see when I travel to Turkey – so, I feel like it is also serving as a preview of new adventures. As always, a good book to me make me feel lots of emotions and this book fits the bill. It is an usual book that at times I am loving and at times I am annoyed….so, it is a good read J.  Maybe my dry spell has ended.

In the Pamuk book there was this paragraph on smoking and cigarettes that I found to be an interesting way to look at cigarettes. The passage says:

 “Love of cigarettes owns nothing to the nicotine and everything to their ability to fill the meaningless void and offer a way of feeling as if we are doing something purposeful.”

I cannot debate the addiction of the nicotine in cigarettes; however, I do know what he means about the cigarette offering a way to fill a void as if we are doing something. I know, for myself, that back when I smoked (a million years ago) I would be bored or just wanting something to do with my hands so I would light a cigarette. I didn’t really want a cigarette but I just wanted to do something. I wanted to feel like I was doing something.  It rings true for me; but, I have never heard anyone articulate this before.  Maybe one of the reasons for my smoking 3+ packs of cigarettes a day. (I am so glad that period in my life is over for the past 25 years).

My family, and most of Georgia from what I hear, spends a LOT of time on Facebook. I am in dis-belief at how many hours are spent scrolling up and down on FB. Also, how often the cover photo is changed. Sometimes it is changed once or twice in the same day. Since there is only one computer in the house, my host family takes turns on the FB page. Not a minute is lost as one exit the chair and another fills in to begin the scroll. They are posting and commenting on just about everything that is posted.

 If not on FB, then they are looking at old photographs that are on the computer. Again, for hours and hours they sit and make “oooing” sounds remembering the event that the picture is previewing. Now, I can understand doing this once in a while; however, most times this is done on daily basis. I have tried to lead them to web sites that would help them with their English or other web sites that would help them learn about any number of topics (TED Talks, for one); but, they always go back to FB and the photographs.

So, I want to share one more item with you before I sign off. As you will have read in my previous blog I ended up (unexpectedly) spending the night in Istanbul because my flight was late landing due to weather. What I didn’t tell you was that I got hurt in Istanbul as I was leaving the hotel. I didn’t even realize I was hurt until I got on the flight back to Tbilisi many, many hours later.  I will say up front that I am recovering and have had medical treatment – so, all’s well that is ending well. The diagnosis is – I have a linear fracture of my 9^th rib on the right side. The good news is that I was told it did not impact anything of real value in my body; however, it still hurt and it still needed attention. I have written an article about the experience and will post the link to OpEdNews.com as soon as it is finalized (probably the next time I post). But rest assured, my Faithful Readers that I am fully on the road to recovery.

I will close for now and won’t be with you again until February at some point. We have a training scheduled at the end of January at the Bazaleti Lake Hotel  (Traveling on the 26^th and training on the 27^th & 28^th of January). We return to Tbilisi on January 29^th. I am so looking forward to this as once again we will have REAL bathrooms, showers, toilets, and FOOD (lots of variety). Of course we will work as it is IST (In-Service Training).

http://www.bazaletilake.ge

Best, Catherine Lawrence, G14

Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia

The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Blog, January 11^th, 2015

Hello, My Faithful Readers:

Happy New Year!

I have posted three photographs at the end of the blog. The first is me on the cruise ship. We had just arrived on board. The second is the entrance to the metro in Budapest. As you can see, not many people trying to gain access and not a lot of security. Finally, I could not resist the photo of the sausages. My mouth is still watering thinking about all the different varieties. 

I hope that my “Faithful Readers” had/are still having a terrific beginning to the New Year! It just does not feel real that a new year has begun – but it certainly has. When I last left you I was getting ready to travel over the Christmas and New Year Holidays on a River Cruise down the Danube. For the first time in eight months I would not be in Georgia and I must tell you it felt GREAT.  I really needed a change of venue. So, this blog really won’t be about my life and experiences in Georgia; however, it will chronicle my well earned vacation over the holidays!

I guess I could begin at the beginning of my travels; however, I think I am going to start at how my vacation ended. So much of what I experienced was planned on the River Boat; however, what happened at the end of the trip was not – so I will start at the end.

I was so sad to leave Budapest. I fell in love with the city. The architecture, the history, the ease of transportation, the food (believe me…I would not lose any weight in this city) J…..but alas, my airline ticket said I had to go. My trip was to go from Budapest to Istanbul and then connecting from Istanbul to Tbilisi. The first leg went smooth, although the flight was bumpy. We were experiencing weather (snow and wind); so we were late landing. For some reason we exited the plane on the field many miles (at least it felt like it) from the terminal. We were exiting the plane onto outside steps that were loaded with ice. I was afraid of slipping; but, made it through ok. By the time we reached the terminal (we rode a GOOD 10-15 minutes in the tram) I had maybe 15-20 minutes to make my connection. I ran as fast as I could. I even tried to kill myself; that being, I tried to get onto the moving walkway going in the wrong direction – “ouch”. I just was not thinking clearly; I just wanted to get to the gate. I was really lucky as I could have really gotten hurt. After all that, I missed the flight. In my life, I have never missed a flight – so what do I do now.

I found the Turkish Airlines “transfer” desk after many people gave me directions that were not correct. I found a family who was also on my flight and missed the connection so we had strength in numbers at the “transfer” desk. Of course, the computers were acting strange and many of the attendants didn’t seem to know what they were doing. Finally, I was able to get re-scheduled on a flight leaving the next day. With my new boarding pass, I made my way to “Passport control.”  Because I was going to be lodged at a hotel overnight (outside of the airport) I had to obtain a visa – 30.00-US$. After “passport control” I was off to the hotel desk to find out where I would be staying overnight. Well, me and a couple of hundred other folks (maybe more) who had flights that were cancelled or they missed the flight were waiting at the hotel desk. It took forever, but finally got a room assignment.  Along with about 30 folks in my small hotel assignment group we all went with a representative of Turkish Airlines to find the airport shuttle to be taken to the hotel. For sure, I thought we were going to a hostel type hotel, but I was so tired all I wanted to do was sleep.

The hotel was about 30-minutes outside of the airport and it was beautiful (200 Euros a night, cheapest room). When we arrived they had dinner waiting and we were told what time breakfast would be served and what time our shuttle arrived to go back to the airport. My room was just beautiful. I was so tired that I didn’t fully enjoy it as we had landed at 11:30pm and I did not get to my room until 3:30am. Breakfast was from 7am – 10am and the shuttle came at 10am…..it was a whirlwind; but it was comfortable and I was able to take an unexpected shower and get a few hours of comfort sleeping…what a fabulous bathroom J

http://www.europarkotel.com

By the way, during my travels I stopped counting at 20 showers over the 14 days. I am sure the count went way higher….It was wonderful to feel so clean!!!

Spending the night in Istanbul was so unexpected. As we traveled from the airport to the hotel I was surprised at how familiar the roadway felt. Just like in any major city with all the trappings you find on highways and byways.  All of the signage was in Turkish (is that the language?). I was surprised not to see any English at all.  I made my re-scheduled flight with no problems; but, I now have a Turkish Visa and feel that returning to Turkey will be a definite adventure for me. (Also, I know the airport fairly well!) - J

Prior to my adventure in Turkey, I got to experience Budapest as the end of my River Boat Cruise down the Danube ended in Budapest. When I left the ship I spent 3-nights and 4-days at the Chain Bridge Sofitel Hotel in Budapest. What a beautiful hotel and so centrally located I was able to walk or take the tram to just about every place that I wanted to see. I spent about 8+ hours each day sightseeing. I’ve included some links at the end in the event that you would like more information on the attractions that I was able to see.

The first stop was the tour of the Parliament Building. This building occurs for me as a wedding cake. It is just beautiful and so big. The tour begins by going through security that rivals security at the airport. Your ticket is bar coded and you must swipe your ticket as you enter and exit. I would imagine that the exit swipe is to insure that you left the building as there are many, many places in the building where one could hide out. The tour started with walking 130 steps up into the building. Of course, there was an elevator; however, I took it on as a personal challenge to do the walk. We walked through many rooms and did see one of the legislative chambers. We did get to see the changing of the guards that guard the crown jewels. It was noted that the cross on the top of the crown was not straight and the guide said that they believe the crown would not fit in the box for storage so they pushed it in and as a result the cross ended up on a slant.  (trivia, if it is true?)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hungarian_Parliament_Building

I then went onto the “House of Terror” former HQ’s of two of the countries darkest regimes (Nazi’s and the Russians). I waited, along with countless others, way over an hour to pay my admission fee to enter the building. I was in awe of the exhibit. It was well done and sobering (to say the least). I was also taken back at how little of the history I knew of this city and the role it played during the war. So many aspects of the exhibit struck me; however, when I read that prisioners who served time at both the Nazi run Dachau concentration camp and the communist Resck work camp in Hungary said that conditions were better at Dachau. I just cannot get my head around that.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/House_of_Terror

I ended my first day with taking in a Hungarian Folk Dancing and Music Concert.

The days continued with visiting tourist attractions like “Historic McDonalds.”  This was the FIRST McDonalds behind the Iron Curtin. The McDonalds was very small (by today’s standards) and at the time was not considered to be “fast food” as the lines went around the block waiting for “western” food.  During the cold war Budapest was considered sort of a “sin city” of the Eastern Bloc – What happened in Budapest stayed in Budapest (ha, sound familiar)! Of course, I had to have a BIG MAC (my first in at least 20-years).

I checked out “Gellert” hotel. It is the oldest hotel  in Budapest (it is on the Buda side). It still has the backdrop at the registration desk where the room keys were usually kept (and you could also leave notes and messages in the cubby that housed the keys). So old world – it was a blast from the past.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hotel_Gell%C3%A9rt

The Gellert thermal baths, facilities separate from the hotel but close by, was not something I could participate in. I was really disappointed as I didn’t bring a bathing suit. The water temperature varies in different sections of the facility. Thermal pool range from 38 degreesC to 40 degreesC, and immersion and swimming pools are 19 degreesC and 27 degreesC, respectfully. They have a wave pool, massage facilities and even something called a “Cleopatra bath” – whatever that means. There are lots and lots of amenities to calm the soul. They do have an observation deck so I did get to see a little; but, the facilities are too big to see all. Gellert is not the only facility in Budapest. I was told that some folks go to the baths in the morning before they leave for work. What a great way to start your day!

http://www.gellertbath.com/

I could write many more pages on Budapest but for now I’ll close this section with my adventures on the tram, the metro and “the eye.”  As is my practice, when I go into a city I usually take the “Big Bus” tour to get a feel for the city. However, since the cruise line did provide a bus tour I spent my time on the “trams and metro.” The hotel sells the tickets and provides information on where to gain access. I just love exploring a city this way. I usually just stay on the “tram” until the end of the line and then explore. The metro is underground but it’s an underground tram (not a train). Their system for paying fares is really the honor system as most times there is no one checking to see if you paid your ticket. And then finally, “the eye” which is a BIG Ferris Wheel (kind-a-like in London). I was scared to death. It took me a day or so to get the nerve to go on; but, since the London “eye” was not built when I was in London, I had to have the experience here in Budapest. After three rotations I was going to push the panic button; but then the ride stopped. It was enough for me. It was thrilling to see Budapest from such a height.

The River Cruise down the Danube may be anti-climatic after what I’ve written so far but it was absolutely the BEST part of the trip. They say that the “mean” age of people who go on River Cruises is “deceased” (tongue and cheek) – but it is very laid back. However, since this was a New Years cruise there were many families with children and grandchildren ranging from about 10 years into late teens. We went through a number of “locks” making our way down the river. It was thrilling to watch the process of moving the ship higher or lower using only water. The ship went through five countries in eight days (Germany (Bavaria), Austria, Hungary and Slovakia). We did begin our journey in the Czech Republic – so that makes the total of five! There were so many highlights; but if I had to choose only one to write about it would have to be Vienna (or Wien as it is known in Germany) on New Year’s Eve and day.

http://www.donauschifffahrt.info/en/facts_figures/the_danube_as_a_major_route_of_transport/locks/

As the cruise staff was preparing the ship for our party we piled into buses and made out way to the theater for the Mozart and Strauss Concert (Wiener Hofburg-Orchester). It was a beautiful venue and the performance brought tears to my eyes and many other people who were sitting near me. Hearing the music born in the city of Vienna and that (pinch me) I was actually in Vienna was overwhelming. After the performance we did a bus tour to see the city at night (all lit up). We also got to see how the city was preparing for the celebration that would come at midnight.

http://www.hofburgorchester.at/index.php?lang=en

We were told that one of the customs in Vienna was that at midnight, and for the first ten minutes of the New Year, they play the Blue Danube waltz and everyone dances to bring in the New Year. So, a midnight when we all went to the sun deck of the ship to watch the fireworks, we all danced the waltz. The fireworks started about 11:30pm and continued way past 12:30am. The city provides a fireworks show; however, since fireworks are legal in Austria the city population supplements and you have a show that encompassed 360Degrees. Everywhere I looked there were fireworks exploding.  The ship staff  brought drinks up to the sun deck and of course we had hats and all kinds of noise makers to bring the new year in. It was a tremendous. I’ve seen a lot of fireworks in my life but I’ve never seen anything like this.

I will close for now; but rest assured (smiles) that as I post future blogs my experiences during my river cruise will infiltrate my writing! My ears are still ringing with the Danube Waltz (which BTW – the Austrians call it “The Almost Blue Danube” )– very funny.

All the best as we move into 2015!

Catherine Lawrence, G14 -1.11.15

Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia

The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Blog, December 24, 2014

Hello, My Faithful Readers:

MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR!

I’ve included two photographs at the end of the blog. The first is a photo of the NEW heating system here in my Sagarejo home. It is on the 2^nd floor and although it is situated in the room (next to my room) it is so powerful that it heats the entire 2^nd floor when it is on. The family does not keep it “on” all the time; so I still have my little space heater. My room is usually around 65F; but it has gone down to 58F. I am lucky as some PCV’s say that they can see their breath in their rooms and water freezes in their rooms. The second photo is the system that the family uses to make wine. It is truly a family event as many people are involved in this yearly event.

Here we are at the end of the year and for me, 2014 has been one for the books. I retired from my position in the States and was accepted into the Peace Corps. As I am ending 2014 and looking forward to 2015 I am filled with gratitude for my good fortune.  

At the moment I am packing to get ready for my travels over New Years!  I will be spending Christmas Day in the Peace Corps Office in Tbilisi so that I can make it to the airport for a 5:00 am flight to Istanbul and then onto Prague. On New Year’s Eve and Day I will be in Vienna, so that will more than make up for being alone on Christmas Day. J I don’t know how much access I will have to the internet as I travel; so this will probably be my last blog for 2014. I want to “thank” everyone who has supported me and have read my blogs and articles or just sent me good wishes!

 As I was talking about my upcoming trip with Georgian teachers and friends I was informed by just about everyone I spoke to had never traveled outside of Georgia. These are women in the 40’s, 50’s and 60’s that have not seen any other part of world. It made me realize even further just how fortunate I have been. They speak with dreams in their voices about wanting to travel; but, tell me it is not easy to do that. 

So, to end the year some interesting aspects of my life here in Georgia!

First, I’ve been told that on 12/29/14 the “Pig – my Wilbur” will be no more.  It will take three men to make Wilbur into dinner. I know this is the reality; but, I still have mixed feelings about this. Of course, a new little piglet will come into the family in the spring and then the cycle will start all over again.  We now have a rooster here, along with the chickens. I would really like the rooster to be in the same boat with the pig.

For some reason I have been having a hard time concentrating on my reading materials here in Sagarejo. I just cannot seem to read anything heavier than Mary Higgins Clark and John Grisham and like authors. I have brought lots of classic reading materials with me; but, I cannot seem to focus. I am hoping that this will pass as I’ve made a promise to read “Crime and Punishment” (for some reason) and lots of other titles while I am here. I am a book junkie and cannot be without a book in my hand; so, I hope for the best. I have been given “The Museum of Innocence” Author – Orhan Pamuk to read as I aspire to spend some time in Turkey this summer.

It has been very mild (temperature wise) here in Sagarejo. It does go down to freezing at night; however, during the course of the day it sometimes hits 50F. This is a good thing; if it stays this way the winter may not be that bad after all; however, if only wishing made it so! J

I recently participated in the NESC (National English Spelling Competition) here in Georgia. Two students that were winners of the local competition here in Sagarejo School #2 -  (8^th and 9^th grades group and 10^th, 11^th and 12^th  grade group) were welcomed at the regional competition in Telavi.  There was a written portion which consisted of spelling 30 words and the high scoring students went onto the verbal part of the competition. It was a thrilling experience for me to watch these highly motivated and dedicated students challenge themselves.  During the verbal part of the competition I was the person who gave the students a mark on their hand if they didn’t spell a word correct. If they got two marks, they were out of the competition. When I directed them out of the competition and to their seat I felt like “Vanna White.” I was standing during the competition; however, it felt like I was on the edge of my seat. There was not a sound in the room as the audience was respectful of the stress the competing students were under. I cannot wait until the final competition in March, 2015!

While I was at the competition I met many new teachers from all around the Kakheti region. I was a little concerned at times as many, many teachers kept looking at me a little funny. I finally asked one of the teachers if there was something wrong and she said “Are you really a Peace Corps Volunteer?” I smiled and laughed as I knew what was coming. I’ve had many conversations with Georgian people that cannot believe someone as “old” as me J is a volunteer. They wanted to know just how old I am. These were all great conversations. They wanted to know “if I was afraid” living in a foreign country and being old. I must tell you that I just kept smiling. They said “my grandmother is as old as you and she sure does not look like you.” I took that as a compliment and the teachers and I spoke about the fear of doing what I was doing. Of course, I said “I am afraid; however, you cannot let that stop you.” They all wanted to take pictures with me so they could show the folks back home the “older” volunteer. It was an all around GREAT experience for me. One I will remember always.

As a pedestrian I am very concerned (at times terrified) to walk here in Georgia. It does not matter if I am in a village, town or city; as a pedestrian I feel that I am literally taking a chance with my life walking in Georgia. I have listed below an excerpt from an article that was written on the subject. The article has articulated my thoughts probably better than I could. If you want to read more the link is listed.

But first, Sagarejo (my home town) is especially difficult for pedestrians (ME) as virtually there are no sidewalks. People are forced to walk on the road that they share with drivers. Now, I say that (share with drivers) but that is not accurate. In my experience drivers have little or no regard for the people walking. If the truth be told I think drivers don’t appreciate (or welcome) people walking on what they consider their turf.  I watch as drivers make their way speeding at alarming rates up or down the mountain I must walk. I don’t know what the rush is other than they like to be moving fast or just the fact that no one is going to stop them. In order to avoid potholes (and there are many) drivers will swerve around them to the point that even though I am as far to the side as I can go I often feel that I am going to be hit. I never know how they will swerve so I just freeze where I stand and pray that they are paying attention.  There are no stop lights or signs here in Sagarejo; so unlike Tbilisi, you don’t have any margin of time to cross the street. I am literally running (along with other folks) as truly I am not at all sure they would stop and not hit me. I often stand by a parked car as I believe drivers would avoid hitting a parked car due to the damage it would cause their car.  Peace Corps told us when we arrived in-country to “make sure you watch out for cars as the cars will not watch out for you.”  The speaker said this laughing and at the time I thought it was a joke but it is cold, hard reality here in Georgia.  I don’t see anything funny about the way pedestrians are treated in Georgia!

http://www.iset.ge/blog/?p=4325

The ISET Economist: Traffic Traumas

Walking and driving in Tbilisi is usually dangerous and stressful. When walking around, pedestrians must continuously monitor the cars in their vicinity, even when walking on the sidewalks. The task of avoiding to be hit by cars is largely left to pedestrians, as many car drivers will not respect pedestrian rights. While Georgians are generally gentle and generous people, their attitude tends to change dramatically when they sit behind a wheel. Then fundamentally decent people turn into ruthless and selfish persons who would never give way to anybody……………

I am always amazed at how many TV commercials there are for Washing Machines here in Georgia.  There is one commercial that almost feels like a “Gershwin” movie. It features a family washing clothes (the washer is in the living room). Mother, Father and child spends a lot of the commercial watching the machine wash the clothes. The joy on their faces is contagious – I find myself smiling watching them. The music sounds like something from “Gershwin” and everyone is dressed beautifully. It ends with the father carrying the child out of the room on his shoulders and the mother turns the light out in the living room so that all that is left is seeing the washing running with (it appears) a light spotlighted on it.  Washing machines may be a novelty here (I don’t know). Many of the appliance stores feature rows and rows of washers; more so than televisions. My family has a washing machine and I am thankful…..I cannot image washing all my clothes my hand.

Many of the PCV’s have left already to go home or elsewhere for the holidays. Facebook is just filled with pictures of happy people with family and friends.

I am just so befuzzled (sp?) that no one seems to close the door as they enter or leave the school. I am constantly closing the door in order to KEEP the little bit of heat that is available in the school – in the school.  All day long people coming in and out (both adults and children) just leave the door wide open. Most folks wear their coats, hats, scarf, etc., while they are in the school as it is SO cold. So I wonder why they would not think to close the door after they enter school. 

When the bell rings to signal the change of classes the students leave the school in droves. There is no one to monitor who is leaving – the students just go. Sometimes they come back; or they go out to the playground or the game room in the basement of the school. I remember when I was in school (ages ago, for sure); however, we needed a pass to leave the school. That is not the case here in Georgia.

The clocks in the school are all different throughout the class rooms. I have my clock set to the internet; but my time is always either slower or faster than what the school clocks say. This was a problem recently as I was to meet a group of students at a certain time. When my clock said I had waited twenty minutes and student had not shown up; well, I left. However, I later found out that the school clock indicated that the students were on time; as, the school clocks were running slow.

Smoking here in Georgia is a big thing. I’ve heard, but cannot verify, that the percentage of people smoking here in Georgia is near 58%. Now, that is a big number; and I would not think that number was not far from the truth. I’ve noticed that I rarely see a man without either a cigarette in his mouth or in his hand. Interestingly I have never seen a woman smoking here. I don’t know whether I’ve missed that or women just don’t smoke in public. Honestly, at times I also want to grab a cigarette. I don’t know what the draw is……maybe the stress of living here? I have fought the feeling as I stopped smoking in 1990 and don’t want to smoke again. I am ashamed to tell you how many packs of cigarettes I smoked back in the day before I quit!

At the end of the day, after I return from school, I have a cup of coffee. Now, that may seem a pretty routine habit; however, I have never had coffee in the afternoon on a consistent basis. As I think about my coffee waiting for me as the school day ends, well - it really keeps me going (pushing me up my mountain). Here in Georgia we really only have instant coffee and up until now I would not touch it (yuck, instant coffee). However, I so look forward to my special time with my coffee….and I don’t think (without the coffee) that I would be awake after 6:00pm. Now, after the coffee (and I can hardly believe it) I end up taking a nap. I sleep maybe 15-30 minutes most days (maybe I faint is closer to the truth) when I get home from school. I think I need this transition in order to shake off the experience of my school day. Most days I feel like I am teaching in a circus like atmosphere and it is exhausting.  Due to my weight loss I can now almost run up my mountain to the quiet and sanity of my room and my coffee. I can leave the bedlam of my school day behind.

 I do know that when I get back to the States I plan to buy the best coffee available. I don’t care what it will cost; I only know that I so miss Starbucks and Dunkin Donuts (not that they are the best) – but it is better than instant.  (I heard a rumor that in January 2015 Dunkin Donuts is opening a store in Tbilisi. Not sure if it is true of where it is; but, it sure warrants looking into.

Well, this ends my adventures here in Sagarejo for 2014. When I next write I will begin a whole new chapter for 2015. In a couple of days it will mark (8) months here and I know that I don’t understand much of anything here in Georgia. My resolution for 2015 is to be more understanding and not compare what I think “should be” to “what is.” Also, work to make a difference in any way that the Georgian people or systems think is needed – keeping in mind “It’s not about ME!”

All the Best,

Catherine Lawrence, G14

Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia

The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.