Sunday, September 27, 2015
Blog, September 28th, 2015
Hello, My Faithful Readers
17
Months Served/10 Months to Completion
I am back full time now in Georgia. The summer is
over and my traveling days are finished (for the moment). My concentration now
will be on teaching and school as well as finishing out my final year of
service in the Peace Corps.
As I returned to site and begin to get into the
groove again I realized that I had missed some of the noises of the
village/town. While I was staying at hotels and guest houses during the summer
i didn’t hear many of the sounds that I hear now. For example, the donkey,
roosters, cows and especially dogs. I don’t know why dogs cry and whimper so
much, but I can say that I didn’t miss that. It makes me sad to hear that. I
also didn’t miss the hollering that my family and neighbors do when then want
to talk to each other and shout across the garden to the next house.
Over the course of the summer I had lots of time to
think (especially traveling by marsh/train)…and one idea kept surfacing. I have come to realize that the longer I live
here in Georgia the clearer I see how much of my life was/is lived under the
auspices of the Eastern European mindset, culture and traditions. More to come
on this….
Your article titled
Chickens
has been accepted and is now published on the OpEdNews website at:
http://www.opednews.com/articles/Chickens-by-Catherine-Lawrence-Chickens-150922-735.html
has been accepted and is now published on the OpEdNews website at:
http://www.opednews.com/articles/Chickens-by-Catherine-Lawrence-Chickens-150922-735.html
Hope you will enjoy my
newest article!
Shoes…I have been wondering why I see so many pairs
of shoes in houses I visit here in Georgia. I have come to realize that it is
because shoes just don’t last long here. I have gone through many pairs of
shoes myself; which I am sure would have lasted much longer if not here in
Georgia. The reason is the condition of the roads and sidewalks (if you can
call them that) are just terrible. At this fact, of terrible walking
conditions, makes me scratch my head when I look at the types of shoes worn by
the women. The shoes are often times high heels. Now, these heels are not low
high (so to speak). They are spiked and really high. They are really
fashionable and to my mind not comfortable to wear. The styles are so varied,
open toe, mesh, leather, spandex material and so on and so on. Often times I
think I am looking at a shoe fashion show. I would think these shoes are not
cheap; as they just look high fashion; but, they seem to be important to the
women here.
The below link was sent to me - hope you enjoy. Georgia is a beautiful country. https://vimeo.com/139516834
Which then brings me to a BIG “ah-ha” moment I had
recently. I have been talking about how the women all look like they are going
to a wedding or a cocktail party when they come to school. They wear outfits
that are very alluring as if for an evening out with a date or better half or
maybe just with a night out with the girls. Well, after all this time here in
Georgia I have finally, or I think I have, come to the reason for this. Here in
Georgia in the towns and villages there is not much opportunity for social
events. Unlike American where there are so many daily opportunities for social
events; e.g. - restaurants, theaters, music venues and museums (to name a few)
these things don’t exist here in the towns and village. There is not much
opportunity for women to get dressed up and go out for an evening on the town.
My town has many stores to buy food; however, we don’t have a restaurant. I have come to realize that “their evening out
on the town” is when they come to school every day. I have thought about how
school here is such a social event for the children; however, I didn’t put it
together for the adults.
I have witnessed women working three jobs here – as teachers during the day,
as tutors after school (to enhance their salaries) and then go home to take
care of their families; so, even if there were museums or theaters it is not
likely they would have the time or money to attend. Of course, the capital city
does offer these events; but, then it involves money to travel by marsh to the
city and then (possibly) a location to stay over if they could not make it back
to the village. So, getting dressed to “the nines” in school is their outlet
for social inter-actions. Of course, I could be wrong about this; but, it truly
makes sense (at least to me). Most of the teaching workforce is women; I’ve
only seen two men here as teachers, and for sure they don’t get dressed up. At
times men don’t even shave; so, it makes me aware once again of the stark
differences that exist here between men and women.
I have found all this very disconcerting since I
arrived here and now I can see the reasoning behind why something is done the
way it is. Even my host mother who runs the school store in the basement of the
school looks way better than me when we go off to school. How she walks down
the mountain in some of the shoes she wears is beyond me. I am just thankful
that I don’t have any desire to become part of this. I know the women look kind
of funny at me when I wear my very conservative outfits and shoes and I am sure
they are judging me as I have been judging them; but, I now can look at things
from another perspective.
So, as I said I am back in Sagarejo and I am really
having a hard time adjusting being back at site. The reason for this is that
while I was traveling I had access to regular good food (and lots of it); as
well as nice bathrooms and other trappings of civilization J
(like swimming pools; fabulous showers and terrific linen on the beds). I just
love the break that we get staying in nice places; however, it does take some
adjusting going back into the towns and villages. I equate it to getting “numb”
once again. I often think it is not a good idea to leave the village as once I
see what I don’t have then it is even harder to come back to site; but, I also
treasure the time away. So, I am getting back to being “numb”. I really cannot think about what I don’t have
as it is often gets me down; but, I just have to make the best of what I have.
As I indicated, school has started and I mark the
last year of service here. In the couple of weeks that I’ve been in school it
is not as bad as it was last September. The reason for that is that I know what
to expect. Having been through one academic year I know what is coming; so, I
am not as shocked as I was last year. I am more accepting of how things are
done here and not as judgmental as to how I think things should be. It has made
life easier for me. Since this is only the beginning it may change; but, it is
different.
I must say that even though school seems somewhat
better; when I come home from a day in the school I just sit and stare.
Seriously, I walk back up my mountain and sit in the chair on the porch and
just stare at the flowers and the sky. I make my coffee and reflect on the day.
I don’t move for a little bit of time – really, I cannot move as the experience
of teaching four or five classes just exhausts me. This will get harder as time
goes on as right now the weather is very nice; but, when the cold weather
begins it will be more difficult.
I had the opportunity to attend the “Tbilisi night
of Photography 2015” this past weekend (link below). This was a wonderful event
that I got to share with some old and new friends. In addition to the festival
the weather was absolutely perfect and there was a full moon. Sitting outside
watching the events unfold at the festival was just such a treat. Basically,
there were seven screens set up to do a slide show presentation of various
artists and their photograph work. There were folding chairs to sit and watch.
The slide show previewed a 3-5 minute presentation on various topics; e.g.,
“Foreigners in Tbilisi”; “Animals”, etc. to name just a couple of topics. These
topics depicted life as it was and is happening. It was wonderful to watch.
After the slide show my friends and I ended up at a
restaurant that was hosting the after party for the principals of the festival.
We asked if we could stay, even though we were only participants, and they said
YES! So, what a treat…free wine and pastry and other good stuff to eat. In
addition, the atmosphere was just electric being in the middle of so much
talent. We all had a terrific time. I stayed over in Tbilisi at the hostel so I
didn’t have to worry about catching the marsh home.
I am back to school and I wanted to mention a couple
of things that I’ve noticed. This may have been happening last year; but,
probably I didn’t notice. The first is that 2nd and 3rd
graders (little kids) walking the hallways on their cells phones. It makes me
crack up to see these children walk and talk on their cells. They look so grown
up and yet they are so young. Also, since my community is a poor community I
wonder where the money comes from to give young children such expensive
electronic equipment. Another thing I’ve noticed is the clocks in the school.
It seems that the clocks get changed before or after every lesson. I go to
class and I fix my watch to the time on the wall and then when I come back to
the teacher’s room after the class is over, I noticed that the time is very
different. I am always changing the time on my phone and my watch. I never seem
to know what time it is. I don’t know if the clock is running slow or fast; but,
the times…they are a-changing. The third thing I noticed is that all the
notebooks have graphing paper instead of plain white or white lined paper.
Again, this is just a curiosity of mine as to why the notebooks they use have
graphing paper; especially, since no one is graphing. It is just something to
ponder as I walk up and down the mountain to and from school.
I will be teaching five day this semester. L.
Last semester I taught four days (off on Monday) which was just fabulous;
however, I will have classes every day from September to December. I am hoping
that when the new semester starts in January I can manage a four day
schedule….so, we shall see.
There is a road project going on here in Sagarejo.
On the main road which is the road I need to walk up and down to get to and
from school; they are ripping up the road (down to the dirt) and also digging
holes in order to put in new pipes. This has been going on for weeks/maybe
months. It is a real mess. When the weather is dry the dust is so thick when cars
drive on the road and when it is wet, well the mud seems like it takes on a
life of its own. In addition, trying to walk is so challenging. I have to be on
guard every minute as there are big rocks/boulders to walk over and pot holes
to avoid. My shoes are wearing out as it is just hard walking on all the
gravel. I am concerned as to what is going to happen when they eventually pave
it (at least I hope they pave it). I don’t know how I am going to get home if I
cannot use this road. I feel like I am on “Tobacco Road” (if you know what I
mean).
Also, dodging the heavy equipment is a real joy. The
men don’t stop working/digging when people are walking by. I just pray that
they see me as I walk by as they are digging or dumping dirt in the truck. The
equipment makes a great deal of noise and it also spills out lots of smoke from gasoline. As always, I watch for
myself as I know that no one is watching out for me; but, I cannot wait for
this to be finished (hope fully before the cold/wet weather is upon us).
I noticed that sometimes my host family washes
clothes and they don’t use soap powder. Since I buy all the soap powder for the
house; when we run out and I have not bought any new soap powder, clothes are
washed just using water. I always have to keep a box of powder in reserve as
whenever I go to wash my clothes - there
is never any soap powder. When the family washes clothes they use so little
soap powder as they want to make it last. But, I didn’t realize that at times
they wash clothes just using water. I noticed that when the family washes floor
they never use soap. They use wet rags and then rinse them out and re-use them
to wash the floors. I have never seen soap used on the floor. I do see that
they use soap, when it is available, to wash dishes.
Here are a couple of final notes about school that
you may find of interest. The first is that a “betting” business “Crystal
Palace” opened up directly across the street from the school. I just find this
odd that it would open so close to the school. Of course, there are many, many
betting places in Tbilisi, Sagarejo and I am sure across Georgia; but right
across the street from the school?
Also, when the teacher tells the students to take
notes on items that are written on the blackboard; well, the children come up
to the board and take a picture on their phone. I just find this amazing; and
yet, I know it is done everywhere around the world – so, why should Georgia be
different.
Finally, here is a thought on lateness here in the
school. Children are taught from a very early age that lateness is allowed.
Lateness is a problem. No one (adults of children) seem to think of lateness as
a problem. It is just the way it is. Children come into class late, sometimes
15-20 minutes. They walk in and just sit down and the teacher does not say one
word to the students. I find this upsetting but no one else seems to mind. I
wonder about truancy here in Georgia. I want to do some research on this topic
as off the top of my head I don’t think there is a truant problem here in
Georgia (or at least what I have witnessed first hand here in Sagarejo). The
students all do show up because I think there is no place else for them to go.
Sometimes the children show up and come into class and then leave; however,
they just stand outside in front of the school and talk to their friends. I
know, but not specifically the details, of the truancy problems in the US. I
believe there is an entire department dedicated to catching children being
truant’ in the States but, it does not seem to be a problem here where I live.
I want to look into this deeper as it does interest me.
Ok, enough for now. As we leave September behind I
have mixed feelings about knowing that next September I won’t be here in
Sagarejo. All is good, Dear Reader. I so appreciate your taking the time to
follow my adventures.
Best,
Catherine Lawrence, G14
Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia – September 28, 2015
The contents of this blog are mine
personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace
Corps.
Tuesday, September 15, 2015
Blog, September 15th, 2015
Dear Faithful Readers:
My life has been a wild ride since I last wrote to
you. I have only been at my site with my host family for two days since the
beginning of September. I must say that it has been wonderful to travel in Georgia
during all this time and get to experience lots of new locations and people.
To start, I participated in a summer camp entitled
“Young Feminist of Gori.” The program ran from September 1st – 6th.
There were seventeen girls and a few counselors. In addition, a Peace Corps
Response Volunteer, plus me and another Peace Corps Volunteer participated in
the program. The camp was held in
Kobuleti, which is about thirty-five minutes from Batumi on the Black Sea
(really out West in Georgia). I’ve listed links below that can provide lots of
information on the areas that I am going to speak about.
We traveled by “marsh” from Gori (which is a town
near the middle of Georgia). We rode for about five hours, cross country, to
arrive at our hotel. Now, when I say hotel it is really more like a Guest
House. The location was great as we were right across the street from the Black
Sea; however, the Guest House was just OK. We were assigned three in a room;
and some of the girls were five or six in a room. The food that was included at
the Guest House left a lot to be desired. Even the girls said that they were
hungry; so, a few times during the week we went out in search of food. The
place did have a terrific space to conduct a conference; but, since it was on
the top floor (4th floor); it was hot.
The conference focused on gender issues. One major
topic was early marriage. This topic is a concern here in Georgia as so many
young people chose marriage at a very young age as there are few other options
sometimes. We also did team building activities and of course English lessons.
It was overall very productive and according to the pre and post tests the
girls did get a lot out of the sessions. Once the formal part was complete we
all headed down to the beach. The Black Sea blew my socks off. I really didn’t
appreciate how big it is. I fully expected to see land on the other side of the
sea; however, it felt more like an ocean than a Sea. The weather was really
warm and the water was perfect. Again, I expected it to be polluted (as I’ve
heard stories); but, the water was clean. It was also rougher than I thought it
was going to be. The waves crashing on the shore made it difficult to get into
the water.
Another reason it was difficult was that the Black
Sea has stones/rocks instead of sand. Every time I tried to get into the water
my feet sank down into the rocks and then the waves knocked me down. It was
hilarious and lots of fun; however, once the laughing stopped my feet and body
hurt with trying to deal with the stones and rocks. We all swam for hours and
then I tried to get out of the water. Well, this was harder than going in. I
fell so many times trying to get out; and of course, I did – but when I got
back to the Guest House to take a shower my bathing was filled with rocks. I
felt like a little kid and as such really had a lot of fun. I know I was a
sight it people were watching me get in and out of the water as I felt like a
crab (on my hands and knees) trying to pick myself up. Oh well, I will never
see these people again so they can think whatever they want (HA!)
The Black Sea has a sort of board walk. It is made
of cement and goes along for miles and miles so people can walk, run or ride
their bikes. It is just beautiful as benches are positioned along the boardwalk
and it is kept so clean. It was a pleasure to walk and walk. I often got away
to watch the sun go down over the Black Sea.
Overall I loved Kobuleti; in fact, I know I am in
love with Kobuleti. It has a small town feel. Sort of like the seashore towns
that I am familiar with in South and North New Jersey. It is a quiet area with
souvenir shops along the main street; but, thankfully there are no (or very
few) shops along the boardwalk.
During the conference we also spent a day going out
to Batumi. It (Batumi) was glitzey, busy
and had many, many top named hotels and lots of casinos. It was OK; but I liked
Kobuleti better. We went to a dolphin show and I’ve listed the utube video of
the event. It was nice; however, I’ve seen many shows like this at SeaWorld in
the States. The Georgians just loved it, as did I.
My friends and I had a coffee with Ice Cream at the
Sheraton and that was so much like being home in the States. We also went to
the Botanical Gardens in Tbilisi. I was not really thrilled to do this;
however, I was so wrong. It was just beautiful. I could have stayed longer but
we were on a schedule. If I am ever near the location again I would go back.
All in all, the conference was awesome. I so enjoyed
being a part of all the events and so happy to meet so many great people. I
took the train back from Kobuleti to Tbilisi rather than take the marsh. The
train also took five hours; but, what comfort. The seats were roomy and you
could get up and walk around. Also, they had vending machines so coffee, hot
chocolate, tea was available for purchase and lots of snacks it you wanted to
purchase. Many people did bring their own snacks with them.
The train had an overhead computer that listed the
location of the train as we were traveling across the country. It was
civilization at its best J. I didn’t feel like I was in Georgia,
for sure. I absolutely would go back and forth with the train and the cost, if
you can believe it, was 24 GEL (which is about $12 USD) – one way. It was so
worth it. When I boarded the train, I traveled 2nd class which was
perfectly fine, I showed the conductor my ticket and passport. I realize when
he saw the color of my passport he didn’t wait for me to open it – he just
waved me through onto the train. I noticed that the folks before me were
scrutinized as he took the time to open the passport or document and look from
ticket to the persons face and back to the document again. I don’t know, of
course, but I felt as an American he didn’t look to closely at me. It was just
interesting.
I know I have left out so many aspects of this
experience; but, I will fill in any gaps in future blogs. So, I was home for
about one day (laundry and such) and then I was off again to Tbilisi to catch a
marsh for Borjomi, which is in the middle of Georgia. This event was a Peace
Corps sponsored conference that focused on MST (Mid-Service Training). This
conference was three days with two travel days added before and after the
conference. Although I am now here 16 months; the MST is usually done in
September (a few months after the official one year anniversary) as the one
year anniversary falls in the summer and lots of PCV’s are traveling.
The location of the event was at the Rixos hotel and
it is a “5Star” hotel (link below). We were all in heaven for a number of
reasons. First, the food was awesome. There was so much of it and such variety.
Food like this is not usual here in Georgia for me; so, we were over the moon
to get blue cheese, olives, meat and shrimp among other choices. The ONLY
downside was that there was no bacon. I was disappointed as I had heard from
other folks who had stayed at the hotel that Bacon was part of the morning
buffet. On well, I will live with my disappointment (HA); as, overall the food
was amazing. We all ate plates and plates of food – to the point that many
PCV’s ended up with stomach issues as we are just not used to an abundance of
food; let alone, anything that is rich and satisfying in content. I could talk
this entire blog about the food; but, the water was another aspect that was
tremendous.
We had showers in our room that could have held
three people in the shower – it was so big. There were three shower heads. I’ve
been in hotels that have the same kind of set up but not here in Georgia. At my
site I rarely get my hair washed once a week and here at the hotel I was
shampooing three times a day. Oh Joy! The beds and the linens were “to-die-for”
– I say that tongue and cheek. If I could have I would have just laid in bed
for the entire time. The sheets were so white and felt creamy. Again, I could
go on but you may be getting bored, dear reader – (smiles).
The best of the best, if you can believe it after
reading about the food, showers and beds is that there was an Olympic size
swimming pool and hot tub available. The hotel opened the facilities an hour
earlier and closed an hour later than normal in order to accommodate our
training schedule. In this way we all could swim and/or workout before
breakfast. There were many saunas – Russian, Turkish and a Steam Room. I cannot
begin to express how wonderful this all was. I don’t think I felt that clean
since I arrived in-country.
So, I must talk about why we were at the hotel and
that was the conference. The conference was used to reflect on the mid-point of
our service. What we have accomplished and what we still want to do. In
addition, we were given the medical protocol for our mid-service medical/dental
examinations. Each volunteer, at the mid-point, must have a physical and dental
check-up. All of this is arranged by the Peace Corps and paid for by the Peace
Corps. We took care of scheduling as due to the distances we live from the
capital (Tbilisi) it does take some arranging to make appointments. We also had
lectures on topics such as; religion here in Georgia and more about the history
of Georgia.
We had a full day of Georgian language lessons. I
think I did OK; as I am not sure if I wrote about the language test I had back
in July. I moved up a notch to “novice high (-)” which was an increase from
“Novice Medium (+)”. I felt good about that but I am still so slow. I will know
in the next week or so what my new score is. Maybe I will go up another notch;
or maybe I will stay the same. In any event, it is all OK. I am trying my best
and I am able to get around Georgia without a deeper language base; however, I
would like to be able to speak more in Georgian. The benchmark for language is
“Intermediate low” – which is only one notch higher than I am currently at. I
fully anticipate being able to accomplish that before I leave service in July
2016.
The Peace Corps continues to pay for language
tutoring which is wonderful. I want to develop a different plan for tutoring so
that I can possibly increase my language skills. We shall see.
Overall, the conference was a success. We won’t
(meaning the G14 group I belong to) won’t have another conference until we COS
(close of service) in or around March 2016. We were told that the conference we
usually have in November (to mark Thanksgiving among other things) won’t be
held this year. We are ALL so sad about this fact. We are told that not every
country has such a conference and since PC is trying to standardize posts we
had to discontinue the conference. This is so sad as with PC I don’t think you
can standardize anything as each country has different needs. So, I am thinking
about what I should do to celebrate Thanksgiving. Maybe I will be going back to
the Black Sea or maybe go to Poland for a long weekend. I don’t have much extra
leave time; so, I may need to stay in-country – but, I still have time to
figure that out.
So, other things are happening here in Georgia…..for
example:
I wanted to share a scene that I was witness to
recently. Seriously, I thought I was in the middle of a scene out of
“Deliverence” (the movie)– if you remember the movie. I was in the car with my
host father and sister; so, I felt somewhat safe – but, I watched with
apprehension and disbelief. So, we pulled up in the car and about ten dogs (all
shapes and sizes) ran out of the house toward the car – barking and jumping and
running around. The area surrounding the house was like a junk yard. The
hallowed out cabs of trucks were evident in the yard; all kinds of car parts,
like fenders and the like; but, they were all rusted. Lots of large 55 gallon
drums with all kinds of stuff sticking out. It had rained the day before so the
place was just mud all around. Three men came out of the house dressed like
hunters and spoke to my hosts father. At some point, as I was watching all this
unfold, the men opened the back of a truck and the dogs were barking and trying
to jump up to get in. It was mass confusion and then some men came out with
shot guns.
This was a scene that I’d only seen in movies.
However, from what I am told here in my town men carry and shoot shotguns here
regularly. I have heard gun fire at times; or thought I did. I know at
Christmas time my host family kills the pig by shooting it in the head. Maybe
that is the gun fire I hear throughout the year. It was yet another experience.
School started on September 14th. The
first day of school is complete bedlam. People are greeting each other as most
folks have not seen each other all summer. My face had so many lipstick stains
on it from all the kisses and hugs that I received. It was truly joyful to be
welcomed back in that way. I can so clearly see how the children have grown.
Everyone was decked out in their finest garb. Many, many adults and children
looked like “fairy princesses” from Disney as their outfits looked “Cinderella”
like. Others looked like they were going to a wedding with lace, and see
through material (or sheer blouses and dresses) that was more in line with a cocktail party
than with the opening day of school. This, of course, happens throughout the
school year; however, it just seemed so excessive on the 1st day of
school.
This was my second school opening so I was familiar
with what was going to happen. The outdoor opening exercise was crazy as the PA
system barely was able to overcome the chatter that was happening from children
and adults. Kids were running and screaming (and of course rough-housing) and
so many adults were not paying attention to the opening exercises as they were talking.
The people presenting the opening didn’t seem to mind. They kept to their
agenda and after about an hour the program ended and everyone went home. And
so, school begins. I do realize that next September I will not be here in
Sagarejo. I am trying to absorb everything that is happening. School last year
was very painful for me; and I am hoping that in some way I can make it better
for myself. More to come, My Faithful Readers!
I will close for now and see you all at the end of
the month. It was a fabulous summer for me. Traveling to Vietnam and Cambodia;
having free time with my host family; traveling within Georgia and getting to
spend time at the Black Sea. Also being able to go to Armenia for a couple of
days was a real treat. It will be a
summer I won’t soon forget. I have started to think about my plans for next
summer and they are AWESOME…..
All the Best,
Catherine
Lawrence, G14
Peace
Corps Volunteer/Georgia – 9-15-15
The contents of this blog are mine
personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace
Corps.
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