Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Blog, February 25, 2015

Hello, My Faithful Readers:

Sorry, no photographs with the blog….next time for sure!

Here we are – 10 months in and the BEST news is that I am HEALED!
 I recently had a follow-up appointment so that I could have my rib section x-rayed and everything came back A-ok. Thank goodness; but then, I could feel that all was well.  So, onward and upward….thank you to whoever is looking out for me “up there or down there!” J

Some days it feels like time is moving very slow and then at other times I cannot believe that I have been here for 10 months. Next month, March 2015, the group before me (the G13’s) will be meeting for the COS conference, which means Close of Service. Most of the G13’s will leave on or around July 2015 and the PC does lots of planning and scheduling so that everyone (volunteers) are not leaving at the same time. In addition, in April 2015 the new group of volunteers (G15’s) will be coming into Georgia. It is an organizational feat to manage all the details that go into volunteers leaving and volunteers coming in; as well as, managing my group the G14’s. I heard that come July 2016 the Democratic Party (USA) will be holding its convention in my home town (Philadelphia). It gave me pause as that is when I am slated to finish with the Peace Corps and return to the States (maybe!)  

Dogs, Dogs, Dogs…..so many dogs here in Sagarejo. I am not really afraid; however, I am not thrilled when I see so many dogs wandering around looking (I imagine) for food or shelter. I still have flashbacks of my encounter with the dog pack a while back; so, I am always mindful of my surroundings. So, the other day, as I was walking home, I watched as one of the neighbor’s dogs was running right towards me.  I thought that he would run right past me; however, that was not the case. With his mouth open and teeth showing he was coming right for me. I pushed my back pack out in front of me and gave it a swing so it was in front of me – using my right arm as a barrier (kinda like fighting a bull). His head hit the side of my right arm. Although he didn’t break my arm, a day or so later I noticed that it was bruised and black and blue. My arm was sore from the impact. This dog was big. His head came up almost to my waist.
I thought he would leave; however, he circled around and came back at me. I didn’t want to turn my back on him and walk away, so I picked up a rock and again thought he would leave; but, he started barking and with teeth showing and mouth open and kept making moves toward me. I threw some rocks at him but he stayed in his stance dodging the rocks. I didn’t know where to go or what to do and at this time I noticed that there was a man down near where I thought the dog lived. I started to holler at the man to come get his dog. The man just stood there and watched me with this dog. I really don’t know if he was the owner or not; but, once again I was left in jeopardy with help not coming. The man finally called the dog and the dog went running toward him. I was so angry and yet I was afraid to walk down towards the man (who now had the dog with or near him).

I stood in place for a couple of minutes thinking that I was not a stranger to this area. I was also very shaken by this experience. This man was a neighbor and everyone on this stretch of the roads knows who I am. Why would they allow this dog to threaten me?  I advised the Peace Corps (Safety and Security Director) of this incident and also my host family. I have to walk past where this dog lives in order to get to school and then come home - and I am not happy about it.  I will need to secure some type of weapon to protect myself; and also, think about the possibility of relocating. This makes me very sad as I love my host family and I love where I live; however, I cannot live in fear. I know there are dogs everywhere; however, here on the mountain there are very few people and as evidenced by my recent experience people are not really willing to help. At least if I live closer to the center of the city there are more people around as well as the sort of hospital. I will have to think on this long and hard.
Since I’ve been here on the mountain I’ve walked past this dog but he was behind fencing and chained to his dog house. Every time I walked by he started barking and jumping up on the dog house as if trying to get over the fencing; however, the chain would not allow it. That, in and of itself, was frightening. I wondered what would happen if he could get out. Now I know.

Follow-up: The Peace Corps spoke to my Host Family (HF) and the HF in turn spoke to the owner of the dog. I was told that the owner apologized and said he would keep the dog chained and not allow him to run free. I pray that this happens; however, I am a very skeptical that it will. Often what is said and what happens in reality are two different things. The Peace Corps said that if another incident occurs they would involve the police; but, my concern is that if another incident happens it may be after this dog really hurts me (not just bruising my arm) and as has been my experience I’ve not been helped by the people who witness the incidents.

I am hungry. The food here is not to my liking and even so, there are not many food options and the quantity is limited.  My host family always gives me what they have; however, it is limited. Pretty much what you have for lunch is what you will have for dinner. Sometimes, especially on Sunday, there is no dinner. Usually there is a late lunch around 3pm or so and that is it. So much salt in the food and the food is fried in grease and oil. Sometimes I wake up at night with my stomach talking to me; that is, growling and making gurgle (sp?)  sounds. I think at times that I have an entity in my body trying to get out. I do have supplemental food, like pretzels, oatmeal and tuna fish that I order from Amazon; however, even that is getting old. There is really no place here in Sagarejo to get food other than Georgian type food. The last time I brought food home (from Tbilisi) and placed it in the refrigerator to eat the next day; I was surprised to learn that someone had eaten it. No one knew who did it; but the bottom line was that it was gone.  I know this sounds petty; but, the thought of “real” food disappearing was so upsetting to me. I was so looking forward to eating something good.  As I am reading my novels and they talk about food they are eating; I am sad. I just don’t want to do much of anything while all I can think about is eating and being satisfied with food occasionally.  I cannot make myself food without offering it to the entire family and in order to do that would cost me lots of money. Maybe if I lived on my own it would be different?

Antakya
·         Antakya is the seat of the Hatay Province in southern Turkey. In ancient times, Antakya was known as Antioch and was for centuries one of the largest cities in the Roman empire and was an influential early center of Christianity; see Antioch. Today's Antakya is overwhelmingly Islamic in religion. It has a population of about a quarter 
I recently found out that there is a volunteer program that happens over the summer in Turkey. It is for a 2-week period during July. The location is Antakya and I was so excited to read that is was formerly known as Antioch. Wow, this would be excellent; however, the dates of the program won’t work for me. I will be traveling at the end of June and early July (more or that as time gets closer) – and I won’t be back in time. Very disappointed; however, I will make sure that I put this on my 2016 calendar.
I had a GREAT weekend in Tbilisi recently. I attended the (ETAG) English Teachers Association of Georgia (link below) – a conference that was held at the International Black Sea University (link below). What a terrific day it was. I met lots of teachers, both teaching at the University level as well as the High school level. Sat in on many workshops and came away with lots of new materials that will hopefully inspire and motivate my students to seeking education in a new way.

In addition, it was my first experience renting an apartment in Tbilisi. A friend and I reserved an apartment from Friday evening until Sunday Afternoon. It was in the “Marjanishvili” section of the city. It was a lot cheaper than staying at a hotel and in addition we had a washing machine to catch up on laundry. It was so convenient and very near a metro stop. We didn’t have much time to explore the area; as we didn’t arrive until late on Friday and we were at the conference all day on Saturday. It is definitely something I would do again. 

The Education East teachers (that is me) had a conference this past week. The hotel was fabulous. We had terrific HOT water for showers – I could live in the shower. In four days time, I took six showers….it was wonderful. We also had HEAT (and lots of it) and a warm room to take a shower in.  In addition, the BEDS were awesome and the bedding (pillows and blankets) were to die for. I would have LOVED to pack the blanket and take it with me; but, that is not in keeping with the values of a Peace Corps Volunteer J. The meeting topic was about Project Management and Design. I’ve done a lot of work in the area; however, we did have our Georgian Counter-parts along for the conference. This topic was a foreign language to my counter-part and I am sure for other Georgian Teachers. The terminology was unknown to them; however, the presenters of the materials did a great job in explaining the various components of designing a project and the management of it. We spent all day (from 9am – 5pm) working  - with coffee breaks and lunch in-between.
The only real down side to the conference was the food.  Breakfast was a buffet, so we had lots of choices and unlimited re-fills. Truly, it was the best meal of the day. Now, you have read many times in my blog about my feelings on Georgian foods so you will understand how disappointed I was in the food at the hotel. Lunch and dinner were served family style and 90% of what was served (although well prepared) was Georgian food. The supply was limited, so if you didn’t sit down as soon as everyone else did, well you were out of luck to get a portion of what was served. The salad, well I could have eaten the bowl of salad by myself. When I asked if we could have a refill the hotel staff told me that I could have more salad if I paid for it. We had french fries and for five people, I bet there was only about 30-35 french fries (shoe string type) on the plate. Of course, there was lots of bread and cheese, fish with lots of bones, etc. One time there were mushrooms….we all dived into the vegetable as it was in short supply. It was dismal, in my opinion. No desert only a plate of whole apples, oranges and a kewee (sp?). I left hungry and disappointed, but I filled up on breakfast – and carried a hardboiled egg and the cheese that is individually wrapped  with me to supplement lunch and dinner.
The hotel was beautiful. It had a 9-hole golf course and a big swimming pool that of course, because it is winter, we could not use. It was snowing off and on during the conference, so it was very beautiful to watch the snow on the trees. The rooms were very warm and we even had a sofa in our room (so we didn’t have to sit on the beds to watch TV).
Here is a piece of completely useless information that I thought you would enjoy. Did you know that you CANNOT buy chewing gum in Singapore? This is the type of information that is listed in the textbooks that the teachers of English use to teach Georgian students.

March 3rd is a BIG holiday here in Georgia. I’m told that EVERYTHING is closed (Schools, Yeah! -  banks, stores, etc.) . Last year I totally forgot about Mother’s Day in the States, so it seems I am going to celebrate at least twice this year. I’ve asked if anything special is done and I understand that families celebrate in their own way. In addition, International Women’s Day is celebrated on March 8th. Also a big day here; however, it falls on a Sunday. As a result, since it is NOT a school day, we don’t get a day off L

March 3
დედის დღე
Dedis dghe

March 8
ქალთა საერთაშორისო დღე
Kalta saertashoriso dghe


Today during class, that is February 25th, the Director came into the room and was looking very somber. All the students stood at attention and listened as she spoke (of course in Georgian). I didn’t understand; however, my cooperating teacher told me after that we were honoring a moment of silence to remember the events that are listed below.
1921 Republic of Georgia Bolshevistic Armies Friday, 25th February, 1921 : On this day, it was reported that the capital of the Republic of Georgia was being seized by Bolshevistic (Russian) armies. The Greeks were headed to this location to pick up the Greek Merchants and Greek refugees now there. The Turkish army had voted to remain neutral. The capture of Georgia by Soviet Russian armies was in essence signified the near end of the Independence of the Republic of Georgia. This country did again regain their independence from the Soviet Union as of 1991 (declared on April 9, finalized on December 25th). Independence Day of Georgia is still celebrated on May 26th, however. This was the date of the original breaking away from Russia which occurred in 1918. 
I want to leave you with some news about the dog situation.
 First, I found myself a BIG/FAT STICK. I do plan to take a picture and post at some point; but, in the meantime know that I (hopefully) have some measure of protection. The stick is big and fat. It is not that long as I need to carry it with me in my back pack. It does not completely fit; however, it’s a small price to pay to allow me to feel somewhat protected.  
The stick is long enough, I think, for me to ram it down the dog’s throat and that is what I intend to do. I am more prepared now than ever to deal with this. I’ve had so much advice from Georgian people on how to deal with this. One suggestion was that while the dog was threatening me I should make friends with it and (carry food) so that I could feed it. Well, that is not going to happen.
My host family told me that the family who owned the dog that attacked me has gotten rid of the dog (or something to that effect). It is a challenge with the language barrier; but, I will investigate further. In the meantime, until I am certain, the stick stays with me. My family, the teachers and everyone who has seen my sticks just giggles or laughs. Honestly, I don’t really care what anyone thinks about the stick. I’ve learned from experience that I better make sure that I do everything and anything I can to protect myself as my experience here is that the folks who have watched my interactions with dogs are not fast in coming to help.
I am very sorry for these dogs here in Georgia. They are starving and often times limping (hurt by getting hit with by cars or with rocks). It is not the dogs fault, I realize that. However, I don’t want to end up hurt.
Ok, I have so much more to write but I think you may be tired of reading J.  The month of March is right around the corner so hopefully, maybe, the worst of the winter is over.
Best, Catherine Lawrence, G14
PeaceCorps Volunteer


The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Sunday, February 8, 2015

Blog, February 8th, 2015

Hello, My Faithful Readers

I have added three photographs at the end. The first is a box of Dunkin Donuts that I purchased here in Tbilisi (you will read more about this in the blog). The second is me outside the hotel in Istanbul and before my acrobatic act and the hurt rib. The third is a photo of some of the teachers that I work with in Sagarejo. 

I have listed the link to my recent article (the 4th in the series) written and published in OpEdNews (below link) about my “rib” experience in Istanbul.


I’ve been recovering from my linear fracture of my 9th rib. I have been off duty (medical) since January 15th. As the 15th was the first day back from holiday break. The doctors had a couple of concerns as my rib was healing. The first was that I should NOT carry anything. As I usually carry books and other items when I spend the day in school, it was not wise to attend. The second reason is that the doctors didn’t want me to catch a cold being in the school. Because the school has limited heat, they felt that cold rooms would not be helpful to a healing rib. In addition, I wanted to be careful not to catch a cold as coughing would not be helpful to healing the rib. So, I’ve had a wonderful rest. I have been at home with my host family.

I will be x-rayed anywhere from 4-6 week after the event (which was January 7th), so probably around mid to the end of February for final medical clearance. In the meantime, I can go back to teaching if I am feeling better (and I do). I will take it easy and see how it goes. If I feel that I am pushing it then can adjust as I go along. I know I will regret saying this but I am getting a little “what do I do with myself” being a home for such a long period of time. I have been reading and resting and also working on my Georgian.  It has been wonderful. I’ve heard that the children in the school keep asking for me. That is so sweet of them.

Last November I requested books from an organization in Darien, CT. What a great organization. As a Peace Corps Volunteer I had to provide information as to the type of books and grade levels I was targeting. When approved my school would receive twenty-five pounds of books. Well, last week the books arrived. You would have thought it was Christmas here in Sagarejo. The teachers could not wait to open the box. All kinds of materials like National Geographic magazines for children, fiction, science book, etc. They all looked brand new. The teachers were “oozing and aaahhing” and pulling the books from the box. Now most of the teachers cannot read English; however, they were excited none-the-less.  Here is the link in the event that you want to check them out!


Soup here in Georgia is a big staple of the diet. My host mother makes a couple of different kinds of soup. For example, red beet soup or borscht; chicken soup and some kind of soup that I have no clue about. They are all good; but, they are very thin. Most have potatoes, carrots and some kind of parsley. A few have noodles but not in abundance. Sometimes they are somewhat flavorful and at other times it tastes like flavored water. I like the potatoes and carrots but a bowl of soup may contain a half a potato and maybe one quarter of a carrot stick. I don’t know why they don’t jam pack the soup with vegetables. I have given my host family some of the Lipton soup mixes to add into the broth; but, it never makes it into the soup. Oh, well – the soup is hot and I do get some potatoes. I understand from other PVC’s that this is the way other families also make their soups. Maybe it’s a practice from back in the day when vegetables were not abundant.


Another concern about food has been resolved now that winter is here. I am concerned that left over food is not refrigerated. This is especially worrisome during the summer; however, in winter (since the kitchen and the storage rooms are not heated) this is not now an issue. The kitchen and storage room are probably colder than a refrigerator. They have the remains of the pig , Wilber (remember from Christmas) hanging on hooks from the ceiling. I don’t know how they preserve the food; but, I am thinking they use salt. The reason being is that I had a piece of pork recently that was so salty that I felt I was eating a “salt lick.” I don’t want to waste food; but, I just could not eat it. The family does not say anything when I leave food on my plate; but, eating salt is just something I cannot do.

Which leads me to wonder why the Georgian people cannot see the connection between eating so much salt (and sugar) with their blood pressure? I have written about this previous as most households (and also the teacher’s room in school) have a blood pressure cuff and stethoscope. Routinely they take each their own BP or they take the BP of another teacher. I think I want to have my BP taken by the Peace Corps doctors at some point.

I just know that you all want to know what is happening with my hair!

Well, I won’t keep you in suspense because I’ve made a decision J. I am letting my hair grow. Now, you must understand that I have not have LONG hair for maybe forty (yes, that is 40 years). My hair has always been short. So, maybe I want to fit in better as the majority of women have long hair here in Georgia (NOT REALLY); or maybe it’s the 5Gel haircut (that translates to maybe $2.50 USD). The hair cut is nice when it is first done; however, when it is growing in – well, it is terrible. In any event, I have decided to see how I feel and look with long hair. Now, I know I will never get it as long as most of the women here; but, for the first time in decades I can feel hair on my neck. When I look in the mirror I sometimes don’t recognize the person looking back at me. My hair, coupled with the weight loss (now at a total of 65 pounds); well, it is disconcerting! I was able to get a couple of pair of pants at the FREE BOX at the Peace Corps Office – so that is a good thing.

So, getting back to the saga of my hair! I will continue to let it grow until I am sure it will get on my nerves. Of course now that it is winter it feels good to have hair; however, we shall see what happens with the 90’sF and 100’sF degree heat comes along.

We are going to attend another training program at the end of February. This training is PDM (Project Design and Management). I will be attending with one of my counter-parts; that is, one of the English teachers that I work with on a daily basis. We will be able to find ways to fund project through grants and also become knowledgeable in how to write the grants. Goal setting and brainstorming as to how best to use any money that we would obtain is on the agenda. This sound like a lot of fun!
We will also be doing this at a hotel – yippee!!! We make camp (so-to-speak) at the Ambassador Hotel in the village of Kachreti. We will be there for four nights. We will have LOTS of showers, real bathrooms, FOOD (3-meals a day) and heat. We cannot wait. I understand that they also have a snack bar….Heaven!!!! I’ve listed the below link in case you want to check it out! More detail to come once I return.


One of the English Teachers gifted me a book entitled’ The Knight in the Panther’s Skin.”  It is a very famous book by a very famous author – Shota Rustaveli. It is so old and so beautiful. I was so touched by the generosity of this teacher. It was translated from Georgian into English by Venera Urushadze. It is a poem that I hope to read; however, I don’t think it is going to be an easy read. I am not much for poetry (I don’t understand poetry); but, I must give this a chance. It is a hard-back covered book that has 1,582 stanza’s (I think they are called stanza’s). I will update you as I make my way through.


In early March 2015 I am going to be tested again as to my Georgian language level. I think that I will go up one level; however, I don’t think I am at the level that the PC requires. I must note that I have felt a shift in my language skills. I find that I do speak more Georgian now than I ever did. So much more makes sense and since I am speaking more I feel a little more confident in speaking. I am sure this will continue as time goes forward. I will let you know once my test is complete and what the outcome was.

I want to give you some of what I’ve discovered about the town that I am living in. Sagarejo, the settlement, was first mentioned in the written record in the 11th century under the name of “Tvali”. This literally means “An Eye.” It acquired town status in 1962. According to the 2002 census, Sagarejo has a population of 12,600 and it is 36 miles (58K) east of the Georgian capital of Tbilisi. I will do more research, but for now that is what I know.


I have noticed over and over how late my host family goes to bed. Sometimes it is as late at 1:00am, as I can hear people talking below me (the pechi room is below my room) when I get up to go the bathroom. I do not know how they can function all day with so little sleep. I see in the classroom that so many students sleep during class time. Of course, I cannot know this but I think many families stay up as late as my family. It is very discouraging teaching to students who are sleeping. No one seems to think this is odd behavior. The teachers just let the children continue sleeping and then when the bell rings they go to their next class.

And speaking of FOOD that is not really good for you…. Dunkin Donuts has arrived in Georgia. Honestly, at times I don’t feel like I am living in Eastern Europe. On my way back from training at the Bazaliti Lake Hotel we stopped at one of the NEW Dunkin Donuts (there are now 2 stores here) for donuts and coffee. It was very strange for me to be a store that looks much like what exists in America! I was overwhelmed. I could not make a decision as to “what” kind of donut I wanted, so, I initially ordered coffee. Ah, as I remembered – it was delicious. I could have sat in the store and just drank coffee all day. I did finally get a donut. I thought it was filled with cream; however, it had a lemon filling. I was disappointed; but, it was still good. At the moment, they don’t have cream donuts (my favorite) – but, hopefully that will come with time. They do sell the pound package of coffee (hazelnut and vanilla); but, I don’t have a drip coffee maker so (at the moment) I have to pass on that.

At the back of the Dunkin Donuts Shop there is a WENDY’s!  Burgers and Donuts is the same building – yummy. I think maybe Georgia is importing all the bad eating habits of the good old USA; but then, it is all sooooo GOOD! 


Water filter….I am always kind-of sick to my stomach when I see just how much sediment accumulates in my water filer. I clean the filter, usually every couple of weeks and yet, so much sediment falls to the bottom of the filter. I guess that is a good thing as since it is on the bottom of the filter than it is not in my water bottle; but, yuck! I often just buy bottled water to make sure that my system gets a dose of really filtered water (at least I hope so).

I often have terrible bouts of diarrhea and I wonder if it is the food, the water or maybe just my system not being used to all the changes. I had an experience recently (not for the faint of heart here, my faithful readers); however, in keeping with my wanting to write a “real” blog I must share this with you. Recently as I was getting ready to board the metro my stomach was giving me signals that I needed to find a toilet (I have stopped referring to it as a bathroom). In any event, I did find one outside the metro stop. Of course, it was a porcelain squat toilet but it was not that bad.  My problem with the squat toilet is that I just cannot squat low enough, so, the capturing process (if you know what I mean) does not all find its way into the porcelain (I can hear you groaning now!).  I tried my best with what I had to clean up; but, it was not great. I was embarrassed and the attendant was angry; but, what can I do. This is life for me in Georgia. It is not like finding a western toilet. I wonder if I am the only person having this difficulty. Even with the weight loss my body just won’t go that low….I apologize if this is way more information than you need – but, living life on a daily basis dictates experiences, I imagine,  we all have but no one talks about.

A memory that totally caught me by surprise was the appearance of a “Huckster” here in Sagarejo. I have not thought about this is many decades; but, hearing and seeing this unfold on the road here in Sagarejo has brought back so many memories. During my time here I’ve been hearing beeping/horn noises made by a car and also a man hollering some words in Georgian. I never gave it much thought, until one day as I was walking home on the mountain I saw the Huckster. He had the trunk of his car open and inside was lots of fruits and vegetables. He stopped many times along the road as people came out of their houses to buy items. This so reminded me of the same kind of scene growing up in South Philadelphia. We would hear the shouts of the Huckster and run out to the truck. We could buy all kinds of fruits and vegetables.  This all made a lot of sense as here in Sagarejo as well as growing up in South Philadelphia not many people had cars, so it was hard to get to the market to buy (and carry home) the items. So, if you can’t go to the mountain then the mountain comes to you. That is exactly what the huckster does. What a great memory to revisit again!

dictionary.reference.com/browse/huckster
a retailer of small articles, especially a peddler of fruits and vegetables; hawker.


I will close for now and write again at the end of February so I give you all the news from the hotel! Also, I read on the internet that Sagarejo is probably going to have some snow next week. I sure hope not; but then, it is February.

All the Best, My Faithful Readers,

Catherine Lawrence, G14
Peace Corps Volunteer – February 8th, 2015





The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.