Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Blog, January 20th, 2015

Hello, My Faithful Readers

I have included two photographs (embedded in the blog at some point). The first is my host grandmother, mother and sister and they are wearing the hats that I bought them while I was in Budapest. I also bought myself a hat but I think I was asleep when the photo was taken (Love the hat!). The second is ME in Vienna on New Years Eve. Since it was so cold most of  the photos outside have me in the same outfit (coat, scarf, gloves, hat)....not sexy, but very warm.

Here we are at almost the end of January. I am approaching the 9th month anniversary of my arrival in Georgia and the beginning of my Peace Corps experience. That celebration will happen on January 26th.

Christmas here in Georgia is still happening; but, it is almost over. My family still has the Christmas decorations up. There are Christmas commercials still happening on television. There is this one commercial that plays over and over and the tune is the first 30 seconds of the “Jingle Bell Rock.” It is driving me crazy. Santa still appears on television and the news programs still have decorated Christmas trees in the background when they broadcast the news.  When will this end? Christmas here in Georgia is celebrated on January 7th  -  My family didn’t even put up the tree until the very end of December; so, I guess celebrating into the end of January is not that unusual.

The Georgian people also have a custom around New Years. Of course, January 1st is the beginning of the New Year; however, they also celebrate something called “Old New Year.”  I don’t understand this holiday, so I’ve listed a link below if you want to read more. I’m told that the celebration is around, of course, family coming to visit and lots and lots of sweets for the table. The sweets mean that the New Year will be sweet for you. Lots of family did come to visit my host family and of course they stayed over as there was lots of drinking - wine and cha-cha. There were fireworks and guns being fired into the air. I just didn’t understand this custom and not much was said about it; so, I went to bed. Well, at 11:45pm they woke me up to come and celebrate the “Old New Year.”  This all happens on the 14th day of the New Year.  Next year I will know better.


The day I returned from my Danube River Cruise, January 7th, was Christmas Day. When I arrived home (around 9:00pm) my family was waiting for me and had dinner all prepared. It was very sweet of them to wait for me. I was texting them as I arrived at the airport so they would know when I would arrive. Well, hugs and kisses abound from everyone (even my host father) J. I know they missed me as I certainly missed them. We had dinner in the “Pechi room” – (it’s the one room that is heated). This was very special as we usually eat in the kitchen (which is not heated). The “pechi” room was all warm and cozy with the Christmas tree all lit up and lots of sweets and food that was prepared for the celebration already on the table.

There was lots of pork to eat as when I was away the pig went to meet his maker. During dinner I had to find out how the pig met his end and I was told that one of the cousins shot the pig in the head. That is the way the pig is killed and then there are many men around who butcher the pig. Now, I know I’ve eaten pork before but I never really gotten to know (up close and personal) the main course like I did with this pig.  The family brought out (cut up – thank goodness) the head of the pig. I tried not to see the remains of the pig’s face; but, they all dug in so fast to each take a piece that I didn’t have that much time to ponder what was in front of me. Of course, I declined to take a piece of the head of the pig. It is considered a delicacy here; highly valued. Not for me, thank you J

Orthodox Epiphany in Georgia – January 19th, 2015
The traditional date for the feast is January 6. However, since 1970, the celebration is held in some countries on the Sunday after January 1.Eastern Churches following the Julian Calendar observe the Theophany feast on what for most countries is January 19[9] because of the 13-day difference today between that calendar and the generally used Gregorian calendar.[10]


As a Christian I’ve only know the Epiphany celebrated on January 6th. The reason is - that is when we took down all the Christmas decoration. The link above will provide lots of information on many different traditions if you would like to pursue.  All the schools are closed; however, I don’t see any other celebrations happening here on my mountain.  (I think this will mark the end of the Christmas season here in Georgia!)

The weather here has not been that bad (so far). It has been cold and there has been snow; however, it is not as bad as I thought it was going to be. However, I must remember that we are not through winter yet. There is still a lot of time before spring arrives, so I am not exhaling yet (as I feel like I’ve been holding my breath anticipating the stories that I’ve heard about winter). My room has a small space heat that if I put it close to my bed and I use my sleeping bag, my heavy blanket from my family, wear my sweatshirt/hoodie

and long underwear; neck scarf and hat – wheeee…..then it is ok to sleep (it better be as after I get all those clothes on to go to sleep I am exhausted J. During the day if it is sunny the sun warms my room – so it is ok.  Sometimes it feels warmer outside than it does inside; but, once I am under the covers it is so warm and toasty. I just don’t want to do anything – really I cannot do much of anything. Keeping warm is the priority.

One of the things that I’ve noticed is that I cannot spend too much time in the “pechi” room. This is the one room in the house that is heated and the family - they all sleep in this room.  Of course, there is a big heating system on the 2nd floor (where all the bedrooms are); however, the family does not put the heater on – so, it’s the “pechi” room or my room to get warm.  In the “pechi” room the family has the television on at least 15-18 hours a day. The family does not go to bed until after mid-night and when there is no school usually no one gets up before noon time. So, at night when I go to get warm in the “pechi” room I am bombarded with what is on television. They watch Turkish Soap operas and some type of Middle Eastern Soap opera as well as an soap opera from India. Geezes, they are all the same..cry a little, kiss a little – over and over again. The one thing going for them is that the locations that the soap operas take place in are just beautiful. The family is just glued to the TV screen – most times you cannot hear a pin drop. Nobody moves a muscle until the commercial comes on. For myself, I want it quiet; but, that is not going to happen. I can truly appreciate that this is the kind of entertainment that gets the family through the dark days of winter. No one reads or plays games; they all just watch the tube. In addition to the soap operas they put the news on and so it goes back and forth between soap operas and news. At times the teenagers in the family will put on music videos.

The commercials keep repeating over and over. I think there are maybe five different commercials that they preview in-between the soap operas. I can play a part in the commercials; the dialogue, the jingles…it really drives me mad. So, I need to go to my room where it is kinda-a-quiet. My room is over the “pechi” room so I can still hear some of what is happening on the television and also hear the family as they talk in-between the opera.  At times the teenagers in the house are doing homework during all this. I just don’t know how they can concentrate as they are working and doing homework at the same time. I guess they are used to doing it. And then we must keep in mind that the “pechi” room is the warm room – so, if I want to be warm without all the layers of covers and clothes I need to live like the family does. I keep looking out my bedroom window so see if the BIG tree outside my window is showing any sign of life. Not yet, but I keep looking.

I had a treat recently as the family had on TLC (The Learning Channel) and a DISCOVERY program. Wow, what a treat that was. Of course it was in English; however, it was dubbed over in Georgian. The program featured was “How did they do that.” Programming on Monster trucks and cars, motorcycle racing – it was wonderful to watch. There was also a program on “Bacon.”  My mouth is still watering looking at all the ways that “BACON” can be used. I think it was filmed in St. Louis as I could see the Gateway to the West arch! I wonder why the family has never tuned into this channel before now?

Because it is usually not really warm in my room the clothes in my closet are cold. When I put something on I usually get the chills as the clothes are cold. I had an idea that works fairly well; and that is, I take the hair dryer and spend a minute or two warming up the clothes that I am going to put on. It does the trick!

I have some good news about my reading. For the first time in many, many months I am reading a book that is (what I call) a book of substance. Up until recently I have not really been able to concentrate on anything other than a Mary Higgins Clark or James Patterson. Now, don’t get me wrong they both write really well and I like their books; however, I’ve read so many of that type in my life that at times I think I could write one. So, at the moment I am reading “The Museum of Innocence” author, Orhan Pamuk. A friend shared this book with me as the back drop of the story takes place in Istanbul. So, that drew my attention. The book talks about many of the wonderful places in Istanbul that I am planning to see when I travel to Turkey – so, I feel like it is also serving as a preview of new adventures. As always, a good book to me make me feel lots of emotions and this book fits the bill. It is an usual book that at times I am loving and at times I am annoyed….so, it is a good read J.  Maybe my dry spell has ended.

In the Pamuk book there was this paragraph on smoking and cigarettes that I found to be an interesting way to look at cigarettes. The passage says:

 “Love of cigarettes owns nothing to the nicotine and everything to their ability to fill the meaningless void and offer a way of feeling as if we are doing something purposeful.”

I cannot debate the addiction of the nicotine in cigarettes; however, I do know what he means about the cigarette offering a way to fill a void as if we are doing something. I know, for myself, that back when I smoked (a million years ago) I would be bored or just wanting something to do with my hands so I would light a cigarette. I didn’t really want a cigarette but I just wanted to do something. I wanted to feel like I was doing something.  It rings true for me; but, I have never heard anyone articulate this before.  Maybe one of the reasons for my smoking 3+ packs of cigarettes a day. (I am so glad that period in my life is over for the past 25 years).

My family, and most of Georgia from what I hear, spends a LOT of time on Facebook. I am in dis-belief at how many hours are spent scrolling up and down on FB. Also, how often the cover photo is changed. Sometimes it is changed once or twice in the same day. Since there is only one computer in the house, my host family takes turns on the FB page. Not a minute is lost as one exit the chair and another fills in to begin the scroll. They are posting and commenting on just about everything that is posted.
 If not on FB, then they are looking at old photographs that are on the computer. Again, for hours and hours they sit and make “oooing” sounds remembering the event that the picture is previewing. Now, I can understand doing this once in a while; however, most times this is done on daily basis. I have tried to lead them to web sites that would help them with their English or other web sites that would help them learn about any number of topics (TED Talks, for one); but, they always go back to FB and the photographs.

So, I want to share one more item with you before I sign off. As you will have read in my previous blog I ended up (unexpectedly) spending the night in Istanbul because my flight was late landing due to weather. What I didn’t tell you was that I got hurt in Istanbul as I was leaving the hotel. I didn’t even realize I was hurt until I got on the flight back to Tbilisi many, many hours later.  I will say up front that I am recovering and have had medical treatment – so, all’s well that is ending well. The diagnosis is – I have a linear fracture of my 9th rib on the right side. The good news is that I was told it did not impact anything of real value in my body; however, it still hurt and it still needed attention. I have written an article about the experience and will post the link to OpEdNews.com as soon as it is finalized (probably the next time I post). But rest assured, my Faithful Readers that I am fully on the road to recovery.

I will close for now and won’t be with you again until February at some point. We have a training scheduled at the end of January at the Bazaleti Lake Hotel  (Traveling on the 26th and training on the 27th & 28th of January). We return to Tbilisi on January 29th. I am so looking forward to this as once again we will have REAL bathrooms, showers, toilets, and FOOD (lots of variety). Of course we will work as it is IST (In-Service Training).


Best, Catherine Lawrence, G14
Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia


The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Sunday, January 11, 2015

Blog, January 11th, 2015

Hello, My Faithful Readers:

Happy New Year!

I have posted three photographs at the end of the blog. The first is me on the cruise ship. We had just arrived on board. The second is the entrance to the metro in Budapest. As you can see, not many people trying to gain access and not a lot of security. Finally, I could not resist the photo of the sausages. My mouth is still watering thinking about all the different varieties. 

I hope that my “Faithful Readers” had/are still having a terrific beginning to the New Year! It just does not feel real that a new year has begun – but it certainly has. When I last left you I was getting ready to travel over the Christmas and New Year Holidays on a River Cruise down the Danube. For the first time in eight months I would not be in Georgia and I must tell you it felt GREAT.  I really needed a change of venue. So, this blog really won’t be about my life and experiences in Georgia; however, it will chronicle my well earned vacation over the holidays!

I guess I could begin at the beginning of my travels; however, I think I am going to start at how my vacation ended. So much of what I experienced was planned on the River Boat; however, what happened at the end of the trip was not – so I will start at the end.

I was so sad to leave Budapest. I fell in love with the city. The architecture, the history, the ease of transportation, the food (believe me…I would not lose any weight in this city) J…..but alas, my airline ticket said I had to go. My trip was to go from Budapest to Istanbul and then connecting from Istanbul to Tbilisi. The first leg went smooth, although the flight was bumpy. We were experiencing weather (snow and wind); so we were late landing. For some reason we exited the plane on the field many miles (at least it felt like it) from the terminal. We were exiting the plane onto outside steps that were loaded with ice. I was afraid of slipping; but, made it through ok. By the time we reached the terminal (we rode a GOOD 10-15 minutes in the tram) I had maybe 15-20 minutes to make my connection. I ran as fast as I could. I even tried to kill myself; that being, I tried to get onto the moving walkway going in the wrong direction – “ouch”. I just was not thinking clearly; I just wanted to get to the gate. I was really lucky as I could have really gotten hurt. After all that, I missed the flight. In my life, I have never missed a flight – so what do I do now.

I found the Turkish Airlines “transfer” desk after many people gave me directions that were not correct. I found a family who was also on my flight and missed the connection so we had strength in numbers at the “transfer” desk. Of course, the computers were acting strange and many of the attendants didn’t seem to know what they were doing. Finally, I was able to get re-scheduled on a flight leaving the next day. With my new boarding pass, I made my way to “Passport control.”  Because I was going to be lodged at a hotel overnight (outside of the airport) I had to obtain a visa – 30.00-US$. After “passport control” I was off to the hotel desk to find out where I would be staying overnight. Well, me and a couple of hundred other folks (maybe more) who had flights that were cancelled or they missed the flight were waiting at the hotel desk. It took forever, but finally got a room assignment.  Along with about 30 folks in my small hotel assignment group we all went with a representative of Turkish Airlines to find the airport shuttle to be taken to the hotel. For sure, I thought we were going to a hostel type hotel, but I was so tired all I wanted to do was sleep.

The hotel was about 30-minutes outside of the airport and it was beautiful (200 Euros a night, cheapest room). When we arrived they had dinner waiting and we were told what time breakfast would be served and what time our shuttle arrived to go back to the airport. My room was just beautiful. I was so tired that I didn’t fully enjoy it as we had landed at 11:30pm and I did not get to my room until 3:30am. Breakfast was from 7am – 10am and the shuttle came at 10am…..it was a whirlwind; but it was comfortable and I was able to take an unexpected shower and get a few hours of comfort sleeping…what a fabulous bathroom J


By the way, during my travels I stopped counting at 20 showers over the 14 days. I am sure the count went way higher….It was wonderful to feel so clean!!!
Spending the night in Istanbul was so unexpected. As we traveled from the airport to the hotel I was surprised at how familiar the roadway felt. Just like in any major city with all the trappings you find on highways and byways.  All of the signage was in Turkish (is that the language?). I was surprised not to see any English at all.  I made my re-scheduled flight with no problems; but, I now have a Turkish Visa and feel that returning to Turkey will be a definite adventure for me. (Also, I know the airport fairly well!) - J

Prior to my adventure in Turkey, I got to experience Budapest as the end of my River Boat Cruise down the Danube ended in Budapest. When I left the ship I spent 3-nights and 4-days at the Chain Bridge Sofitel Hotel in Budapest. What a beautiful hotel and so centrally located I was able to walk or take the tram to just about every place that I wanted to see. I spent about 8+ hours each day sightseeing. I’ve included some links at the end in the event that you would like more information on the attractions that I was able to see.

The first stop was the tour of the Parliament Building. This building occurs for me as a wedding cake. It is just beautiful and so big. The tour begins by going through security that rivals security at the airport. Your ticket is bar coded and you must swipe your ticket as you enter and exit. I would imagine that the exit swipe is to insure that you left the building as there are many, many places in the building where one could hide out. The tour started with walking 130 steps up into the building. Of course, there was an elevator; however, I took it on as a personal challenge to do the walk. We walked through many rooms and did see one of the legislative chambers. We did get to see the changing of the guards that guard the crown jewels. It was noted that the cross on the top of the crown was not straight and the guide said that they believe the crown would not fit in the box for storage so they pushed it in and as a result the cross ended up on a slant.  (trivia, if it is true?)


I then went onto the “House of Terror” former HQ’s of two of the countries darkest regimes (Nazi’s and the Russians). I waited, along with countless others, way over an hour to pay my admission fee to enter the building. I was in awe of the exhibit. It was well done and sobering (to say the least). I was also taken back at how little of the history I knew of this city and the role it played during the war. So many aspects of the exhibit struck me; however, when I read that prisioners who served time at both the Nazi run Dachau concentration camp and the communist Resck work camp in Hungary said that conditions were better at Dachau. I just cannot get my head around that.


I ended my first day with taking in a Hungarian Folk Dancing and Music Concert.
The days continued with visiting tourist attractions like “Historic McDonalds.”  This was the FIRST McDonalds behind the Iron Curtin. The McDonalds was very small (by today’s standards) and at the time was not considered to be “fast food” as the lines went around the block waiting for “western” food.  During the cold war Budapest was considered sort of a “sin city” of the Eastern Bloc – What happened in Budapest stayed in Budapest (ha, sound familiar)! Of course, I had to have a BIG MAC (my first in at least 20-years).

I checked out “Gellert” hotel. It is the oldest hotel  in Budapest (it is on the Buda side). It still has the backdrop at the registration desk where the room keys were usually kept (and you could also leave notes and messages in the cubby that housed the keys). So old world – it was a blast from the past.


The Gellert thermal baths, facilities separate from the hotel but close by, was not something I could participate in. I was really disappointed as I didn’t bring a bathing suit. The water temperature varies in different sections of the facility. Thermal pool range from 38 degreesC to 40 degreesC, and immersion and swimming pools are 19 degreesC and 27 degreesC, respectfully. They have a wave pool, massage facilities and even something called a “Cleopatra bath” – whatever that means. There are lots and lots of amenities to calm the soul. They do have an observation deck so I did get to see a little; but, the facilities are too big to see all. Gellert is not the only facility in Budapest. I was told that some folks go to the baths in the morning before they leave for work. What a great way to start your day!


I could write many more pages on Budapest but for now I’ll close this section with my adventures on the tram, the metro and “the eye.”  As is my practice, when I go into a city I usually take the “Big Bus” tour to get a feel for the city. However, since the cruise line did provide a bus tour I spent my time on the “trams and metro.” The hotel sells the tickets and provides information on where to gain access. I just love exploring a city this way. I usually just stay on the “tram” until the end of the line and then explore. The metro is underground but it’s an underground tram (not a train). Their system for paying fares is really the honor system as most times there is no one checking to see if you paid your ticket. And then finally, “the eye” which is a BIG Ferris Wheel (kind-a-like in London). I was scared to death. It took me a day or so to get the nerve to go on; but, since the London “eye” was not built when I was in London, I had to have the experience here in Budapest. After three rotations I was going to push the panic button; but then the ride stopped. It was enough for me. It was thrilling to see Budapest from such a height.

The River Cruise down the Danube may be anti-climatic after what I’ve written so far but it was absolutely the BEST part of the trip. They say that the “mean” age of people who go on River Cruises is “deceased” (tongue and cheek) – but it is very laid back. However, since this was a New Years cruise there were many families with children and grandchildren ranging from about 10 years into late teens. We went through a number of “locks” making our way down the river. It was thrilling to watch the process of moving the ship higher or lower using only water. The ship went through five countries in eight days (Germany (Bavaria), Austria, Hungary and Slovakia). We did begin our journey in the Czech Republic – so that makes the total of five! There were so many highlights; but if I had to choose only one to write about it would have to be Vienna (or Wien as it is known in Germany) on New Year’s Eve and day.


As the cruise staff was preparing the ship for our party we piled into buses and made out way to the theater for the Mozart and Strauss Concert (Wiener Hofburg-Orchester). It was a beautiful venue and the performance brought tears to my eyes and many other people who were sitting near me. Hearing the music born in the city of Vienna and that (pinch me) I was actually in Vienna was overwhelming. After the performance we did a bus tour to see the city at night (all lit up). We also got to see how the city was preparing for the celebration that would come at midnight.


We were told that one of the customs in Vienna was that at midnight, and for the first ten minutes of the New Year, they play the Blue Danube waltz and everyone dances to bring in the New Year. So, a midnight when we all went to the sun deck of the ship to watch the fireworks, we all danced the waltz. The fireworks started about 11:30pm and continued way past 12:30am. The city provides a fireworks show; however, since fireworks are legal in Austria the city population supplements and you have a show that encompassed 360Degrees. Everywhere I looked there were fireworks exploding.  The ship staff  brought drinks up to the sun deck and of course we had hats and all kinds of noise makers to bring the new year in. It was a tremendous. I’ve seen a lot of fireworks in my life but I’ve never seen anything like this.

I will close for now; but rest assured (smiles) that as I post future blogs my experiences during my river cruise will infiltrate my writing! My ears are still ringing with the Danube Waltz (which BTW – the Austrians call it “The Almost Blue Danube” )– very funny.

All the best as we move into 2015!

Catherine Lawrence, G14 -1.11.15
Peace Corps Volunteer/Georgia


The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.