Blog, July 31^st, 2014

Hello, My Faithful Readers:

Here it is the last day in July and all is well. I’m told that August is a very slow month here in Georgia. Lots of organizations close for the month (or just about) and lots of folks go on vacation. I’ve heard that so many people go to the beach, which here in Georgia means the Black Sea.

I am settling in and it feels very good. I am feeling much better after the fall I took in Tbilisi. I was so lucky that I didn’t break anything, as that would have limited my experience, or maybe I would have needed to leave the country. Oh brother, that would have been terrible. One funny point is that my host family put “cha-cha” on the scrapes and bruises. “Cha-cha” is the homemade vodka that is 60-80 proof and is so loved here in Georgia. Well, let me tell you the “cha-cha” on a piece of cotton felt like fire on my wound, scrapes and bruises. I was blowing air to stop the heat from the alcohol on my leg and arm. My host family was laughing and then they put a band-aid on to protect the wound. Ah, homemade remedies. The next day I got up a little sore, but Advil did the trick. In any event, I am still able to walk up and down the mountain and I feel certain that nothing will remain of my injuries to impact my service here in the Peace Corps.

My family has many trees; for example: Apple, pear, cherry and some other kind of fruit that I have no idea what it is. They also have walnut and hazel nut trees. It is just incredible to me that you just shake the trees and food falls out. We had tons and tons of walnuts. In addition to just eating them, they make a sauce out of the walnuts. Of course, they call it walnut sauce. They also make it into a paste and use it as a filling in pastry dough. Wow, is that good. They put a little sugar on top and you would think it came from a bakery. Yum! The hazelnuts come in a little green pouch that you have to peal in order to get to the nut. I didn’t know that nuts grew on trees. Honestly, I’ve never really thought about it. I just always went to the store and bought the package of mixed nuts J. The family uses a hammer to break up the nuts and just throw the shells and all into a BIG bowl and then you get to pick through and eat until your heart is satisfied.

The house I live in has three satellite dishes. Most houses have at least two. The television is always on in my house; as it is in most houses here in Georgia. The internet is a little different and the signals come and go. Mostly go, as very often they cannot get out onto the internet. I am lucky to have my internet stick so that I can access; however, for some reason the signal has been very weak. We had a storm last week that we lost power for a couple of hours. I was told that the power grid all across Georgia went down and the entire country was dark. I don’t know if that is true or not as I didn’t hear any reports and I cannot fully understand what they are saying on the news; but if that were true, WOW – that would be incredible. The country losing power for hours is very frightening. It happened around 10pm, so we all just went to bed. I forgot to turn off my light and fan when the power went out, so that when the power came back on – Presto – I was woken to lights and air from the fan. J

I solved my ICE problem (if all my problems were so easy). I now have ice and I am so thankful. It was such a missing for me and since it has been so hot, well – I am thrilled to have it back. I don’t know why I didn’t think of this prior, but I put my water bottle in the freezer and in a couple of hours I have ice water. Ah, it is so delicious. It takes a couple of hours to completely defrost; so, I have cold water on-goingly. It is such a treat. Also, and this is big, I found cauliflower at the bazaar. What a treat. It was so cheap, which surprised me. A whole head only cost 1GEL. When you think about the fact that one banana costs 1GEL and you can get a whole cauliflower for 1GEL, well the vegetable is cheap. I am thankful as I plan to buy lots of it. We fried it up, really steamed it up in a frying pan, with onions and something that looked like parsley. It was fabulous and made an entire meal, with tomatoes and of course bread. It was a great Day!

The leaves on some of the trees are turning yellow and brown. I guess now that August is upon us the seasons are slowing going to change. I wonder what kind of a show the trees will give me. Will they change all the different colors that they do in the States? Since I have so many trees around me I will have a front row seat to watch all this unfold. I cannot wait!

The other day as I was coming back up the mountain it started to rain. Really, it felt more like a summer rain shower. So instead of putting up an umbrella or putting on my rain poncho, I just found a bench on the side of the road (which was covered by a trellis of grapes vines and leaves) and waited out the rain. As I sat there I realized that I didn’t have to be anywhere or really do anything. I could just sit there and watch the road, the mountain, the animals and of course the rain. Of course I’ve known that I am retired but I just have not felt retired with so much happening in the Peace Corps training program. Actually, I felt that I was in graduate school during the training program. In any event, back to the road. I must have sat there for maybe a couple of hours just listening to the silence and the occasional car that drove by. Listening to the rain hit the leaves and the ground. It was thundering in the background and I was hoping that lightening was not moving in. It was so pleasant. Not many people on the road so I was alone and was loving the experience.

There are many benches along the road so you don’t have to walk to far before you can just sit.  The benches are all wood and all seem like very old or weathered wood. They are low to the ground and will only hold, maybe four people, if that on the bench. The bench does not have a back to it. Most benches are placed near the wall that divides the house from the road so you can rest your back on the wall.  The bench is not very wide, usually just one wood board. It is pretty skimpy; but sufficient.  Where I was sitting I had a terrific view of the mountain. I never feel afraid on the road and I wonder why that is because it is isolated as I walk toward my house. My mind is still in “city mode” where I think if I needed help would someone come out from behind the walls that enclose their houses and help me. I guess too many years being conditioned to city life.

As was the case in Osiarui, no one locks their doors or windows. At night, the doors are closed, but just push them and they open. All day the doors are open so you just freely walk in and out. There are no screens or screen doors. My host father stays in the city for days at a time in order to accommodate his work schedule so it is just me, my host mom and grand mom here on this mountain and back from the main road. Ah, I may have read to many mystery books.  Living without locks is very different for me. I wonder how it is in Tbilisi?

There is this bird that comes around now and then and sits outside my window. Now most birds have a lovely song in them; however, this bird sounds like a “pogo stick” that needs oil. It has a squeak that sounds like aluminum rubbing against aluminum. That is what I thought it was at first. It does not stay long and it does not come around very early, so I guess I will let it stay (smiles). It is a very interesting sound, though.

My Host mother and I still work every day on her English and my Georgian. She is having such difficulty with the “th” sounds – for example, the – this – these – those. I’ve never given it much thought since I grew up with these sounds; however, she struggle so with getting her mouth around the sounds. We now sing the A-B-C-D song. She just thinks that is hysterical. I wish the Georgian alphabet had a song that would help me. Many of the Georgian letter sounds are as foreign to me as the “th” sound is for my host mom. Ah, it is a daily challenge.

I’ve noticed walking in the town and up and down the mountain that there are lots of babies, but there are no baby carriages. Babies, even infants, are carried by the mother or father in their arms. I didn’t think anything of it initially, and now that I think back, but the same was true for Osiauri. I would imagine that the roads and pavements are so broken it would be difficult, if not impossible, to push a carriage. I know for myself, I have a hard time walking and for sure I never look up. I always look down at my feet to make sure I can see where I am walking.

We had a BBQ recently. I have been waiting for this to happen as I’ve heard from so many people how terrific it is. Mostly the BBQ revolves around pork. The pork is cut into chunks and placed on an iron stick (I am sure there is a name for it, but I cannot remember it). Maybe 6-8 pieces of pork on each iron stick. It is then placed in a makeshift hibachi. I don’t know if they use charcoal or wood (maybe a little of both) but the hibachi is so low to the ground. Big rocks border the makeshift hibachi and the flames and smoke cook the pork. My mouth was watering watching all this happen. The host family had company come so we can all enjoy the BBQ. There is a name for it in Georgian so as soon as I find out what it is I will let you know. There was no sauce on the meat, just a little bit of seasoning (not sure what). The meat sure disappeared fast. I’m told that at Christmas the same thing will happen as we have this pig (remember, he has his own house) being groomed for Christmas dinner.  Maybe they will BBQ the entire pig, that all remains to be seen. What a treat it was. Of course potatoes were on the table as well as tomatoes and cucumbers (all from the garden in the back of the house). Ludi (beer) was served as well as corn on the cob (also from the garden at the back of the house). I know this may seem old hat to some, but I just over the moon with going out back and picking out the fruits and vegetables from the garden that will be eaten for dinner.

 I’ve also had instruction of how to pick the beans for “lobio” – which means” Beans” in Georgian. There is a technique to it. Some beans stay and some go. My grandmom and I sit on the porch and go thru the beans. There are buckets of beans to go through and I am not good at figuring out what stays and what goes. She is very patient with me and checks what I did and then shows me what I did wrong. She also tells me in Russian what I did; however, I have no clue what she said. I just shake my head like I understand and smile. She smiles back as she knows I have no clue (HA).  I am going to have another item on my resume, that is: “Lobio Specialist” J

My host father had an accident with the car. He is fine, but the car is not. So, we may not go to Kutaisi as planned. That will be a disappointment; but, the host family is just so upset about the car and my host mother is upset as she was so looking forward to visiting with her mother and family. We shall see what happens as if the car gets fixed we may still go. Everything is up in the air.

Ok, the weeks are just floating by. The weather has been great. The temperature has been in the low 80’s.  If I go to Kutaisi I am not taking my computer, so I will be off line for about five days or so. Imagine, having to take manual notes on paper with a pencil- J.

Thank you, My Faithful Readers.  I so enjoy blogging and knowing that you are enjoying sharing in my adventures!

Best, Catherine Lawrence, G14 – 7/31/14

The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Blog, July 27^th, 2014

Hello, My Faithful Readers:

It has been three months, April 26^th, 2014, since I began my Peace Corps Georgia adventure!

This marks my first full week as a Peace Corps Volunteer here in Sagarejo. So far, it has been terrific and I fully expect it to get better. I’ve been running so fast and hard for the last three months, and more, and now I have the opportunity to slow down for a bit – at least until school starts.

I officially become an English Teacher (ESL) on September 15^th, 2014. Classes begin that day but prior to that date I am sure there will be many planning sessions. For example, one of the requirements that will happen before the start of classes will be to create, plan and implement a summer camp for the students here in Sagarejo. I will have help, not sure how much help, but hoping for the best. There are always so many variables to deal with; for example, how many students will show up, what ages they will be; how much adult supervision and support will be available, etc., etc., etc. As always, I will do my best. I do have a plan setup for the first five days (the camp will run for ten days), so that is a start.

The only thing I can see outside my window is trees, sky and mountain (and stars at night!). Sometimes my entertainment here is just to sit and watch the wind move the trees and listen to the rustling of the leaves. These are experiences that I usually only get when I am on vacation; however, to have this on a daily basis is very extraordinary to me.  This is way different than my city view of buildings, helicopters and jets flying into the airport along the jet path into the airport in my city. I really love my city view and I do miss it at times, but this is so different for me. I never see or hear airplanes or helicopters flying overhead. I never hear sirens, police or ambulance. I don’t hear buses or the honking of horns.  I hear birds, a donkey and dogs barking. I also hear water running as most houses have an outside water source. I rarely hear the noise of a car as my house is off the main road. I hear the crunch of the gravel as people go and come from walking into the center of town.

The other night I woke up to the sound of what I thought was gun fire. Thankfully it was not. Of all things, it was a fireworks display. As I looked out my windows I could see the different colors and designs of the fireworks. Very strange indeed being here in Georgia seeing a fireworks display. The next day I found out that the show was in honor of a woman here in Sagarejo who was celebrating a birthday.

 One of the things that we are absolutely NOT allowed to do here is drive a car or a motorcycle. We are not even allowed to ride on the back of a motorcycle. That is a disappointment for me as it would be perfect for me going up and down the mountain; but, not to worry I don’t plan to break the rules. Breaking this rule, and getting caught, means a ticket home. Also, it would ruin my cardiovascular program that I fully intent to benefit from.  I’ve been told that in past years the Peace Corps actually gave volunteers motorcycles if they were in remote areas and had difficulty traveling. That must have been terrific, I am sorry I missed that period of time.

I have some “this and that” to share with you.  I was very surprised at how many “moths” there are here – and many are in my room. As best as I try to “shoo” them away, I find that many more show up. I will need to look for some moth flakes as I don’t want holes in my clothing. Also, there is no light in the refrigerator – HA. I know that is not very unusual; however, if I want to go into the refrigerator after dark I need to either bring my flashlight or do without. You see, after a certain time the overhead light does not work in the kitchen. Have no idea why and I don’t have the language yet to ask about it. There are no screens on the windows. Now, I would not have found that odd; however, many of the homes I’ve been in here in Sagarejo do have screens. Since we live in a forest, I thought it would be a good idea to keep the bees and flies out of the house; but, interestingly enough, they do not want to go into the house. In the Georgian language they use the same word for finger and toes. I thought maybe they called them a “Digit” however, that is not the case. Both are referred to as “Tetis” – which means finger and toe.

To continue – I didn’t notice in Osiauri as my host father was not around a lot as he was working from early morning until, most times, after I turned in for the evening. In any event, I did see him once or twice without his shirt on while eating. I’ve noticed here in Sagarejo that my host father never wears his shirt during meals. I imagine that is a cultural trend here in Georgia?  However, during “Supra’s” men always have their shirts on, so I think the no-shirt rule is when men are comfortable within their own homes?  I just find it different than what I am used to. Another funny “this and that” is that when I met some of the teachers in the school - the first thing they asked me was “do you have a boyfriend?” I actually understood the question (I think I was asked that question before in Osiauri), which was a fabulous thing for me; but we all laughed when I answered “no”. I gather from the remaining conversation that they are working to rectify that for me. No matter that I said, “no, no” – they were all still laughing and plotting as I then went into the Director’s office. Georgia people are not shy about asking personal questions. They ask about religion, children, grand-children, etc. There does not seem to be any question off the table. The PC did prepare us for these types of questions so I am mostly prepared to answer.

More this and that: There is a taxi service dedicated just to women. It is a PINK Taxi and I don’t know much more than that (at the moment – other than the taxi is PINK (or so I’ve been told). I have not seen one yet. Trash is not picked up from each and every household. There are silver trash containers placed throughout the town that people walk to and put their trash in. Then the trash collectors come and empty the containers. Not sure how often this happens. In order to do laundry in the washing machine, my host family needs to unplug the refrigerator as there are just not enough outlets to accommodate all the appliances. The washer is same type of front loader washer that I had in Osiauri.

One more item, the floor on the 2^nd floor slants down a bit. If you let a ball lose in my room it would roll to the other end of the room. At times, I feel like I am on a cruise ship as I lose my balance when I forget the room is slanted. It is very interesting. At times, when someone else comes into the hallway my bedroom door just swings open. At first I thought maybe there is a ghost (HA), but no way. I think it maybe the way the house is not level. At night I close the door and sometimes in the morning it is open.

There is a lot of received wisdom here in Georgia. According to the author “Gladwell” it is the knowledge that is handed down that we live by. So, here are just a few examples. I know there are more, but these will get us started. I’ve heard many of these over the years; but it is humorous to hear them here in Georgia.

*Don’t drink anything cold; it is not good for you.

*Don’t leave the door open as the draft will make you sick.

*Don’t go out with a wet head.

My official status here in Georgia is “American Citizen living in Georgia.” I do not have diplomatic immunity here and the Peace Corps stresses that point over and over again. We are all subject to the laws of the country we are in.

I need to secure a tutor in order to test again in November. I need to go up two levels and I hope that I can accomplish that by the November deadline. If not, I think I will get to test again in February. Seriously, I work with my host mother a couple of hours every day with Georgian (for me) and English (for her). It is so amazing to me how much I’ve learned in such a short period of time. Now that the pressure is off and I can work at my own pace I feel that I have improved greatly. I’ve never had any doubt that I can attain the level required; going at a slower pace has been just what I needed.

I just found out that all the students in my school (350) have email addresses. So, instead of making fliers and walking them around or posting them in store windows, the school can just email the students who will be invited to the summer camp. Now, I find this amazing. Here, in this 3^rd world country, all the students have email? It just does not seem very “Peace Corps-ish?” I know I am making a judgment here. My mindset still goes back to PC volunteers working in very remote areas that barely have running water (and sometimes in Georgia they only have water during certain times and the same with electricity).  This will all unfold as time goes forward.

I wanted to try out the transportation system to see if I could navigate and get myself to Tbilisi and YES, I CAN. This has been so on my mind and now I feel very confident that I can handle it. I took the marsh from Sagarejo. The marsh hub here in Sagarejo has no set schedule. When the marsh is full, or just about, it goes. So, you just make your way to the hub and wait. Also, many marsh’s make their way from other villages and towns through Sagarejo, so I could also flag one of those down as its speeding by J. I’m told that as you see a marsh you need to hold up your fingers to tell the driver how many people want to go on. If they have room for the number of fingers you are holding up, well then they stop. Neat system, Huh!  It is a 45 minute ride into Tbilsi to the marsh hub that brings in marsh’s from the East (that is where I am coming from).

Once in Tbilisi I made my way to the METRO. I get on at the SAMGORI stop, which is also the marsh hub for all marsh’s coming and going from the east. I think the METRO system is modeled on the DC metro system, as it is very easy to navigate. There is signage, in Georgian and the English version of Georgian. The metro card speeds you through the turnstiles. There are police and METRO attendants at each of the stops. It is seven stops to reach STATION SQUARE. This is the point where you need to change trains to go in another direction. I get off and follow the crowd to the next train which will take me to The Medical Center stop. It is three stops and then another couple of blocks to walk to get to the Peace Corps Office. Whew! As it was happening it was terrific. I felt like I was home. I am very comfortable in cities and now I feel that I can manage the city. Good Job!

It costs .50 Tetri for a ride on the metro. That is less than .50cents USD for a ride. Also, if you ride within a certain period of time from when you swipe your card the ride is free. Not sure of the time period, but will check that out. The card for the metro also works on the buses (which are all yellow Marsh’s). There are a gazillon of these yellow marsh’s with different numbers on the windshield. That number will tell you where it is going and how it is going. Need to figure that our also!

One minor point is that I fell walking to the PC Office. I was so confident having just mastered the transportation system that I stopped looking down at where I was walking and looked up, and wham – I fell flat. There are so many broken pavements and rocks embedded in the concrete, as well as steps up or down – to me I need to be ever vigilant walking. I just cannot look up, as every step (to me) is a land mind. In any event, I am stiff and sore but I was so lucky. I didn’t break anything or hurt anything that bad. It was a shock for me as I’ve spent the last three months in Osiauri avoiding this kind of situation. I guess I expected a little different in the city, but that is not to be.

The PC office is great. There is a lounge that is open to volunteers from 6am to 9pm every day. We cannot sleep there unless we get permission and that only comes about if we have an early morning flight. The room has COMFORTABLE chairs. Also it is Air Conditioned! Also, the lounge has real toilets and a shower as well as a library. Ah, all the comforts of home. Lots of PC volunteers rotate thru so there is lots of conversation and sharing of things that we need to know. A group of us went to have REAL HAMBURGERS at a place called the “Acid Cafe.” It was heavenly. At that point the day was gone. The Marsh’s stop running at 8pm (earlier in the winter). Not many people travel at night. So, I threaded my way back to the METRO and then to a marsh hub, heading east. The Marsh hub is just like “DIDUBE” hub, for marsh’s going west. I wrote about this in a previous blog. Georgian’s do have this organized. I almost missed the marsh as I had to use the toilet and when I came out the marsh was driving away. I was waving my hands and luckily the driver did see me. When you say “Time waits for no one” – well, neither do the marsh’s. I had placed a sleeping bag that I got at the PC office on the marsh and would have no idea how to get it back if the marsh left without me. Geezes! That would have been unfortunate for me.

 Once home in Sagarejo, rather than walk up the mountain, due to my feeling stiff after my fall, I took a taxi home. The taxi ride, which took maybe 2 minutes was the same cost (3GEL) as my 45 minute ride to Tbilisi. I was not happy about that, it sure didn’t seem fair – but then, I didn’t want to push it. I won’t be taking taxi’s very often.

I am sure there is lots of information I left out about my adventure in Tbilisi but I will fill in as time goes forward.

All the Best, my Faithful Readers, Catherine, G14 – 7/27/14

Pictures will be coming forthwith!  :-)

The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Blog, July 23^rd, 2014

Hello, My Faithful Readers:

I have arrived in Sagarejo 

A New Adventure Begins!

When I last left you my new host parents, my School Director and I were driving back from Tbilisi after being sworn in as a Peace Corps Volunteer. Sagarejo is about a 40 minute (or so) drive from Tbilisi. Getting out of Tbilisi is no easy feat. There is so much traffic and so many people. Lots of people walk in the street as the sidewalks are uneven and many sidewalks have outdoor shops or stands so it is hard to maneuver around them. It is busy and noisy –so fabulous. So, in addition to dodging cars you are also dodging people, dogs and sometimes donkeys. It is a bustling hub of activity one which I just love and cannot wait to be a part of.

Before we started the drive home, my host mother wanted to stop and buy some fruits and vegetables at an outdoor market in Tbilisi. I was so happy to be able to get out of the car and explore a little. I had maybe 15 minutes to look around. There are many shops and also many people are walking around selling all kinds of items. I went into a pharmacy and bought some water. (exciting stuff, ha! J). The experience of being able to go into a store and buy something without much facility around the language makes me feel terrific. I know I will get better with time, but for the moment buying water in Tbilisi was excellent!

Arrival in Sagarejo, my new home until July 2016!

 I did spend a couple of days in Sagarejo back in June so I was somewhat familiar with what I was going to see. Of course, nothing has changed in that short period of time. Everything seemed the same as I remembered it. As soon as we arrived home my host mother went into the kitchen and started preparing a meal. I think she had pre-planned as not much time went by before we were all called to the table for lunch!  In the meantime, my host father and I struggled to get my luggage to the 2^nd floor, which is where my room is.

My room is on the 2^nd floor and just like in Osiauri the steps to the 2^nd floor are on the outside of the house. The 2^nd floor consists of five bedrooms all being accessible off a long hallway. My host parents, sister, brother and I have a bedroom and there is also an empty bedroom (I am hoping that I can invite guests to stay and use that room for my guests (but, that is a later conversation).  The bedrooms are very bright, big, and cheerful and have lots of windows. No screens, but since the garden, the pig and the chickens (Yes, we have livestock) are in the back of the house, we don’t have much of an issue with flies and such.  Also, at times I hear a donkey hee-hawing in the distance. Not sure who he belongs to.  There are roosters someplace as I can hear them in the distance. Thank goodness my family does not have any roosters. I just love my bedroom. My window faces a mountain (when I look out, to the right). I almost feel that I can reach out and touch it. It is so green and lush. Also, outside my window grapes are growing on vines. I can just reach out and pick a bunch of green grapes (not ready yet). There is a balcony outside my window and an overhead cover so that when it rains I don’t have to close my window and I can sit out on the balcony. It is truly lovely.

Inside my room is a single bed, a wardrobe, night stand and table and chair. The room is fairly large, and I am hoping to either buy or ask the host family if I can move one of their comfortable chairs into my room. The floors are wood and again I am hoping to buy an area rug of some type. We shall see, as I believe my room is above the room that the family uses in the winter to stay warm. I understand that most Georgian families don’t use their bedrooms in the winter as it is difficult to heat the entire house. There is usually one room that everyone congregates in and that is the room that is directly below me. Since hot air rises, I am hopeful that I will be the beneficiary of all that escaping heat J. I needed to buy about twenty-five hangers as there is very little shelf space in the wardrobe. We shall see how long that lasts hanging my clothes up.

The downstairs consists of a hallway as you enter the house. As you enter, on the right hand side is the grandmother’s room. It is big – has a couple of beds, a stove (pechi), a couple of wardrobes and a television. On the left side is the room that is used as both a dining room and a living room. It is also big. It has a computer, a big flat screen TV, big and small sofas and a couple of day beds. This is the room that is directly below me and the room that I think they use during the winter to stay warm. It is also bright and cheerful. As you leave that room you walk into a large kitchen and through the kitchen you go into the bathroom. Yes, I have indoor facilities; however, the family does still have the outhouse. I don’t know if it is still in use, but since there are six of us in the house, maybe in a pinch the outhouse may come in handy! The house is well kept and painted white. It is not new but it is in good condition. 

As nice as the house is, the best part is the garden. There is a small porch that I just love on the 1^st floor. The garden is full of green shrubs, flowers (of all sorts) big and small trees. It is just lovely. The trellis has overhanging vines with grapes that afford lots of shade. There is a driveway as the family does have a car. The entire property is partitioned off with wire type fencing that does not detract from the feeling that I am living in a forest. Ah, the beauty of it all.  I was going to buy a hammock as a welcome gift and thought that I should talk to the family before I do that. It is such a peaceful, undisturbed area that I didn’t know if a hammock might upset the balance.  I can always go back to Khashuri and get one, maybe for next summer.

In the back of the house we have the vegetable garden as well as the pig and the chickens. The pig stays in his house (he has his own house). I am told sadly that I cannot name the pig as come Christmas he will be dinner. Wilber!!!! The chickens are small. I think there are about a dozen. They have their own wire cage for night time but during the day they run loose through the garden and the porch. Oddly enough they do not go in the house. The vegetable garden is big and I know they are growing corn and lots of other things, but I am not sure what. The grandmother works for hours every day in the vegetable garden. There is a wood shed in the back with lots of fire wood stacked up. There is also some kind of a slab that I think they use to butcher chickens and the pig (and heaven knows what else J!  Truly, I have not seen everything yet but it is clear to me that the family has everything situated so that it works for them. It is a truly idyllic spot. The space is so beautiful and nature is just surrounding us!

The road that we live on is off the main road up the mountain. There are only about five houses on the road and we are the only family, I think, who lives here year around. The other neighbors live either in Tbilisi or elsewhere and use this house as a summer home. They are here usually on weekend or during vacation, so the entire area is so quiet.  One of the neighbors has a dog that does not seem to want to live with its owner family, so most often he ended up here in my host family house. There is also a cat and I am really not sure who the cat belongs to. Neither pet has a name or maybe I don’t know it yet.

One final thing about the location of my house before we talk about my host family; and that is, at night the stars are just magnificent. I have never see stars in the quantity that I’ve seen right outside my window. With the backdrop of the mountain I am just in awe. I think about moving my desk over to the window but I fear I will be day dreaming out the window and not concentrating on what work I will have to do. The only other time I’ve seen stars like this is when I was in the Boston area for a conference in a very remote, wooded area. When there is little light from houses, etc., the stars can really be seen. Almost like you can reach up and touch them. Ah, this is such a treat for me to have all this available right at my fingertips.

I am so fortunate to have been placed with my host family; Grandmother, Father, Mother, Sister (17), Brother (14). The grandmother is Russian and so is the father, of course her son. They are a very quiet and bookish kind of people (my kind of people). The Father is a police officer in Tbilisi and works a lot in the city. Because of the long hours and the travel back and forth they have a flat in Tbilisi and he comes home when the schedule permits. The mother takes care of the children and the house. Very traditional Georgian woman and she is so sweet and loving. She tells me in English “I love you” and I tell her in Georgian the same thing: მიყვარხარ (me shen miqvarkhar) – I love you.

The host sister is getting ready to begin her last year of high school. She is a student in the school that I am going to be teaching in. There is no doubt that she will go onto the University and study. She is a lovely young woman. Her manner is very soft and quiet, just like her mother. Her brother is also a student in my school. He is a quiet young man who always has a book in his hand.  The grandmother is a hoot! She talks to me in Russian like I can understand what she is saying. She continually tries to get me to pronounce the French “r” – it is so funny. We end up growling at each other and laughing. I have an overall great feeling about these folks; I had it almost from the moment I met them. They speak to each other so politely and they have made me feel so welcome, safe and comfortable. I will share more as time goes forward.

As an aside, I must tell you how wonderful it feels to be taken care of. Both host families have taken steps to make me feel welcomed and safe and overall I’ve felt well taken care of. To have all my meals prepared and waiting, yippee (smiles), and neither family would let me help with the clean up. Well, I know that is going to change because I will need to feel a real part of this family and pitching in with the chores is a part of that. My family has invited me to go on vacation with them when they visit my host mom’s family. They live in a village outside of Kutaisi (in the Western part of the country).  Peace Corps rules state that I cannot travel for the first three months of my service without their permission, so we shall see if I will be able to go.

I’ve done some exploring in the main part of town, but to get there I have to go down the mountain. Ah, The Mountain is my friend and my cost-free exercise programJ. Back in June when I was here the mountain seemed in-surmountable; however, I’ve been up and down the mountain at least three times since I arrived and it does not seem that bad.  I’ve met new friends on the mountain. About a third of the way down there is a little kiosk on the side of the road that is run by a couple of older folks (that probably live near-by).  We say hello and they want me to stop and talk. Of course, I am the NEWS and they know something about me. In Georgia everyone seems to know everyone, so news travels fast. I need to explore the kiosk, when I can speak more Georgian, to see what they are selling.

I am still on the mountain, but I wanted to say that Sagarejo is a town. Whereas Osiauri was a village and Tbilisi is a city. I am sure there are criteria to separate the categories, but not sure what they are.  As I continue down the mountain there is not much other than houses (behind gates) on one side of the road and open space on the other side. There are lots of trees and green bushes and such as I walk down. At some point houses and stores appear on both sides of the road, which tell me I am getting close to the heart or center of the town. Lots of traffic so one must be careful. We walk on the road as the sidewalks are very broken up and hard to manage. The road is paved and easier to walk on.  There are bread stores, $1.00 stores, grocery stores, used clothing stores, etc. As I discover more I will share. In addition, there is a bazaar that has so many fruits and vegetables, a hardware store, all kinds of clothing hanging up on trees and on the side of buildings. There is a pharmacy (actually many pharmacies) and again so many people weaving in and out buying what they need. It seems that most people buy for one or two days at a time. I know I will elaborate on this as I get to spend more time in the area.  I remembered, there is a police station about ¾ of the way down the mountain! There is also a hotel of sorts. I met a fellow traveler from Switzerland who was staying at the hotel. It was 15Gel a night and he said the room was nothing to write home about, but it’s a roof over his head. The hotel has seen better times. Need to explore the history of that!

At the bottom of the mountain is the center of town. Here you can find many beauty salons, the Bank of Georgia, the school I will be teaching in, pharmacies, grocery stores, $1.00 stores, etc., etc., and I even found a “Coffee House” that actually has a coffee pot system (Mr. Coffee) just like home. Most people drink Turkish coffee, which is just too strong for me. 

There is a park that is usually taken over by the men, so women normally don’t sit in the area. We have some kind of municipal services building, not sure what is done in that building. We have a kind-of make-shift hospital. Not sure about that either, so lots of exploring needs to be done. We have a post office here in town which is a luxury, I am told. Most people have to go to another town or city to get their mail and packages. All we have to do is walk down the mountain. They don’t deliver!  And of course, what goes down – must come up!  It does take me some time to go back up. There is an incline not sure how much in degree’s, but definitely UP! I found myself walking differently going up. Usually I walk very fast, but not going up the mountain. There are places along the way to sit and catch your breath. I always take lots of water, so it is manageable. I meet lots of horses, cows, chickens and donkeys on my travels up and down. I get to say hello to the same people, up and down. This will be an “on-going” conversation, my faithful readers. The cardiovascular mountain!

I don’t have any pictures to share at the moment but I will in the near future. From all that I’ve seen so far it is a quiet, peaceful town. There is a marsh stop and taxi hub in the town – as that is where I will get the marsh when I go into Tbilisi. Have not figured any of that out either (I’ve only been here 6 days!!) – working on it J.I know I left out tons of stuff and little by little I will blog and fill in all the details. There are two other PC volunteers here with me. They are a G14 (like me) and a G13 (who is in her second year here). It is nice to have some American company.

Ok, enough for now. Thank you all for sharing this with me. I just love being able to chronicle this time that I have been given in the Peace Corps and now in Sagarejo. I sometimes go back and re-read a blog that I wrote from months past and I am amazed at how much I have grown in such a short period of time.

My best wishes to everyone. Catherine Lawrence, G14 – 7/23/14

Note:  The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Blog, July 20^th, 2014

Hello, My Faithful Readers:

I don’t know where to start! It has been a whole week since I last left you. It seems so appropriate that today is the anniversary of the Moon Landing; as I feel that I am also in a different world. Of course, Georgia is not an alien world as is the moon, but more and more I know I am not in Kansas anymore.  The BIG NEWS is that I am officially a “Peace Corps Volunteer.”

Volunteer - მოხალისე; Mokhalise

 As you have been reading, my PST (Pre-Service Training) was very difficult for me on so many levels. At times I really didn’t know if I was going to make it or even if I wanted to make it. Very often I thought about leaving; as I questioned what I was doing here, in the PC, when I could be in my home town with all the luxuries one could ask for. 

Well, maybe those kinds of questions are built into the process of becoming a Peace Corps Volunteers, maybe, but it is because of the answers that resulted from those questions made it clear to me that I wanted to stay and serve with the Peace Corps here in Georgia. The clarity that resulted, I believe, will make this experience deeper and more satisfying as I don’t have any doubt this is where I should be.  Now, as time goes forward I will probably moan and groan about something; for example, the heat, the walking up my mountain to get home, the cold – I could go on, but you get the picture. However, those complaints (well, maybe not complaints but one of the ways to share my challenges) are not meant to question why I am here, but as I said to share what is happening.

My permanent address here in Georgia.

Catherine Lawrence

C/O- Nodar Dreidze

Satave Street, 2nd Turn, House #4a

3801 Sagarejo,

Republic of Georgia

So, let me back track a bit and fill you in on activities and events that led up to this moment. Leading up to graduation, we had to go to Borjomi to apply for our residency cards.  In order to do that, we needed to meet with a notary in Borjomi, with our passports, and sign a bunch of documents. It was only about a 30-minute drive from Khashuri. The process was really effortless as the Peace Corps staff had everything setup for us. So, in and out of the office and we were free for a couple of hours to explore Borjomi. If you goggle the name lots of information will come up. I was so impressed with this town.  It is a resort town that I know that I will visit again while here in Georgia. It is just beautiful. I am told that the mountains that you see are the Lesser Caucasus mountain range. It is worth your time to check it out. I think they are known for their mineral waters. I have so much more to learn. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borjomi

Borjomi (Georgian: ბორჯომი)

is a resort town in south-central Georgia with a population estimated at 14,445. It is one of the districts of the Samtskhe-Javakheti ...

I spent part of my free time in the Bank of Georgia trying to get my bank card activated. Also, I wanted to setup an internet banking account as that is how Peace Corps will now pay us and through us our host families. It did take some time as the only person who spoke English was limited and my Georgian is not great; but, somehow we got it done. However (as an aside) when I tried the bank card, it worked. The bank knows me as “Mr. Lawrence.”  However, my codes for my internet on-line account didn’t work. So, I need to go back and get that figured out. I thought there might be a problem as the bank staff filled in my pass codes when the account was being setup, so I was not clear if I was clear in giving the pass code. Oh well, it will get fixed – but, moving in the right direction. After the bank, I met up with a group of volunteers and we sat beneath the Lesser Caucasus and had coffee. It was a tranquil setting with outside tables and umbrellas. The sun was going down, the air was cool and we had green grass under our feet (the grass in Osiauri is for cow grazing, not sitting on). I know I felt so comfortable. Finally seeing the Lesser Caucasus was a thrill for me - majestic. The conversation was flowing and easy. It was lots of fun and I know I was not ready to leave. But, as trainees we need to be back in our villages by 7:00pm, so back home we went.

The next big event was our oral language test. In order to make the language mark in the Peace Corps you need to attain the level of intermediate low. Well, I knew that was not going to happen. That level comes only after reaching Novice low, medium and high. My first test was novice low, so I know I was going to be happy to go up one notch to Novice Medium. After I was switch into a different language class I felt so much better and I knew that I improved, so I was not afraid J to take the test.

The test is verbal with one of the language teachers. I walked away knowing that I did better than my first test. And, as expected I did go up a notch to Novice Medium. I will have to continue learning in order to meet the goal of intermediate low; so I will get a tutor and have individual classes twice a week – each class being 60-90 minutes. Whew, that is a far cry from the four hours every day (six days a week) of language class during PST with 20-somethings that have more proficiency than I had and also most had at least another foreign language under their belt. I feel that I am on solid ground and I don’t think there will be any problem making the mark when I next test in November. (Stay Tuned for on-going results )J.

At that point, our trainee requirements were complete. I know we were all relieved, as I know I was. We now had a day and a half to finish packing and get ready to move to our permanent site as well as say good-by to our host families. The luggage is like nothing else. We all knew we came in with a lot of luggage, but during our three months in training we had acquired more and the PC gave us more stuff. The question was - how to fit it all into our luggage and honestly how to get it to our permanent sites. The marsh’s don’t have a lot of carrying room like the big greyhound buses do. It was an on-going conversation and worry among the volunteers.  

The next event was the Farewell Dinner. What a wonderful event. Most of us got dressed up and away we went. It was held in Khashuri, actually not far from my village. Dinner was excellent. The food just kept coming. Kinda like a buffet but without the line. It was a sit down dinner. There was not enough room on the table for the varieties of food. After dinner there was an activity (cannot be the PC without an activity J).  We were given a certificate of completion packet from the PC for ourselves and one for our host families. Each volunteer picked a packet and then had to give the packet to the volunteer and say something nice or complimentary about that person. This was all done as a group and it was indeed a lovely activity. One—by-one as the packets were given out, there was laughter, hugs, crying and everything in-between. After that, dessert! And then the talent show. There were songs and a terrific magic show by one of the guys in our group. There was a skit that spoofed one of the language coaches, which was so funny. Out of context; however, it may not translate – but trust me, we were all doubled over with laughter. It was such a relief to have that kind of outlet after the 11 weeks of serious training. At the end, we played “Ra Ra Rasputin “on the marsh radio and we all went outside to dance. I did post a link to the song in my last post, so if you have not taken a listen you still can. This was our “theme song” traveling the highways in Georgia. It is a real HOOT!

Ah, home at last and to finish packing and talking with our host family. It will be very sad for me to leave them. They have been GREAT to me. The morning that I left my host grandmother was so upset, as was I. We were both crying as we were trying to get the luggage out the gate to get to the marsh. There was not a lot of time for a long good-by (thank goodness). I hope at some point while I am here in Georgia to go back and visit. We shall see.

Graduation day has finally arrived. The marsh picked me up at 7:05am and we were off to Tbilisi by 7:30am. The ride was very quiet. I know I was in deep thought about events that had happened and what was before me. I know I’ve said this numerous times but I still cannot get my head around living here in Georgia. When I factor in that it will be for “two years” it just still does not feel real, and yet I know it is very real. We arrived in Tbilisi. I believe it was the hottest day so far that I’ve experienced in Georgia (or maybe my blood pressure) was pumping due to the anxiety of all this.

In any event, the ceremony was at the Medical Center, which is next door to the Peace Corps Office. All the staff, the language coaches, the education coaches, the marsh drivers and of course all the volunteers (maybe other folks that I’ve not mentioned (sorry)) made their way to the auditorium. Host families, both current and future, were invited.  In addition, many of the G12 and G13 volunteers were in attendance, as well as volunteers from years past who still live in Georgia came to the event. I bet there were 300 people in the auditorium. We, the trainees, were on the stage. It was so overwhelming that even sitting here writing I am feeling the emotion of it all. The PC staff led us through the events as they would happen. The ceremony would start at HIGH noon (12:00pm – Georgia Time) and it would last about 2-1/2 hours. There was no AC and it was hot, but we all used our program to fan ourselves.

The program began with remarks from the PC Country Director in English and then was translated into Georgian by our Training Manager. We also had a brief speech from three representatives of our group of trainees. Some of the trainees sang the Georgian and the American National Anthems. It was a moment! Then, the US Ambassador Richard Norland, swore us in. I have listed below the oath that we took in order to become Volunteers. We had to repeat after him and I know for myself, and for some people around me, we had lumps in our throat trying to speak the words. It was joyous and overwhelming.  Our Program Director’s then called each of our names out and we stood up. Because there are so many of us we each place the Peace Corps pin on our lapels. The auditorium just went wild with applause. What a moment!

After the oath we took a break and went to a lovely reception outside of the auditorium. All kinds of pastry, a fabulous cake, soda, coffee and water were served. During the reception I met up with my new host mother and the woman who will be my school Director in Sagarejo. I was so thrilled that came to the event. In addition my host father, who is a police officer in Tbilisi arrived. He left work to come to the event. I was so impressed . In addition, the two women I interviewed with during my visit to ETAG (English Teachers Association of Georgia) also came to the event. I had been communicating with them both to thank them for their time during the interview and in the email I sent invited them to the Peace Corps graduation. I was so happy and surprised that they came as I know that I will have a close association with this organization during my time in Georgia.  As you can see, it just kept unfolding and getting better and better as the day went on. After the reception we were entertained by Georgian Dancers and singers doing traditional dances and songs and also in traditional costumes. It was amazing and I plan to seek them out and view another performance. It was great.

So, the day was complete. We found our luggage trucks and my host father brought the car around. He was supposed to take us all to the marsh hub, but he ended up driving us all the way home to Sagarejo. That was really a big deal as he was supposed to go back to work after the event. Instead, he drove us home and then drove back to Tbilisi and worked until the next afternoon. The Georgian people are so kind. It was a relief to have a ride home as I was so tired and hot I could have fallen asleep in the car.

Ok, I have written so much and have yet to tell about arriving in Sagarejo and my new host family and location. I will leave that for the next blog.

Thanks so much, My Faithful Readers. I now REALLY begin Peace Corps Service. So thrilled and thankful that this opportunity has been given to me and that I am well enough to maintain the rigor of it all.

All the best, Catherine, G14 – 7/20/14

Note:  The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Peace Corps Volunteer Oath:

I,____________(name) do solemly swear that I will support and defend the Constitution of the United States of America against all enemies, domestic or foreign, that I take this obligation freely. And without any mental reservation or purpose of evasion. And that I will well and faithfully discharge my duties in the Peace Corps, so help me God.

Me in Tbilisi, In case you forgot what I looked like (smiles). I could not figure out how to turn it around (sorry)!